billp

I have to agree as well, I'm just getting started but nothing excites me more then working with the metal. I'm close to 56, all my major joints are bad from arthritis, on top of having problems with my left hand thumb joint deteriorating away, thanks to 24 years loading and unloading trucks and hard work. But in all it's not enough to stop me from grabbing a hammer and beating iron. Even my wife is getting irritated at me for doing less and less around the house and spending more time in the shop. May be as close to any type of addiction drugs or other wise I will ever come. All I need do now is get good enough to make a little off my work to justify to the outside world I'm doing something worth while. When we all know it's just the sound of the hammer and the feel of the heat that makes it all worth while to us. Now that's about as philosophical as I get. Bill P

Jayco I must say as an EMT-IV working for over 15 years on an advances life support ambulance in Tenn. this is the first time I have had someone raise that question. As Steve said we have used a magnet on a hospice situation under doctors orders to stop a pacemaker/defibrillator when a patient was passing on. So all I could add is this, being in the area or welding yourself you may not feel any effect to your pacemaker BUT, you could disable it without knowing it. Which would mean when you did need it, it might not be working and to late to fix it then. When you have a demand pacer (as it sounds like you do) it does only work when needed by pacing or by shock what ever the need laying dormant the rest of the time, which I'm sure you already know. But if it worked all the time you might feel a skip or change to your rhythm letting you know something is a miss. All in all I'm just casting my vote to go with caution and stay away from anything that might, no matter how slight, cause you harm. Best safe then sorry Bill P

OK hears the comments of a newbie. Now I'm still old school and stick weld and always use gloves when doing that. On the other hand the main book I'm using as a guide I was advised to use a glove on my holding hand. I started out without but heat and sparks from my charcoal fire helped change my mind. BUT, I did find when needing to turn and manipulate the piece I'm holding the glove is a disadvantage. I found some cheap welding leather gloves at $5.00 a pair and after a slight brake in time don't do to bad. Not sure if I would stick weld with them but working the forge do fine to a point. As my skills develop I may change my mind though I do like to be able to feel the piece I'm working on, again to a point. Bill P

OK one last question and I leave you all alone on this but, what are the advantages or disadvantages of a double horn anvil? I have never seen one or don't remember seeing one but it seems all the old world German style anvils are double. Seems to me you lose some room on the face but that's why I ask. I have learned though the more bulk at the bottom the better if that's so have changed my mind on my #1 choice and am now looking at the Euranvils. Good price, old world style with my limited knowledge looks good just a double horn style, let me know. Thomas The Ozark School looks good just not sure if I can get up that way this weekend. They have several things I would like to look at, will just have to see. Thanks for the info. Bill P

I understand about bigger is better but right now my smithy has to be kind of portable as it may be a year or two before I can build a simple pole shop. My wood shop has a wood conventional floor due to a slanting yard so I have to move things in to store and out to work. If it was not for that I would make the needed changes and use it as a smithy/shop. I just though at a 100 to 150 (maybe 180) range would work for now as I'm not looking to do anything really big for a while as I learn and work on my skills keeping it small and simple. Plus as my skills get better I was hoping to start doing reenactments, school demonstrations, and that sort of thing just to promote and keep alive blacksmithing in my little area. So doing this sort of thing I will be doing small and quick items when doing demonstrations. I know you understand you all have been doing this a lot longer then I. I was just curious if the brands mentioned were reliable or not. I have been looking more at a JHM 160lb Shaper anvil that has a long face 17 1/4 x 4 1/4 at 878.00 to 709.55 the promo clams it to work great for blacksmithing. Then again I know most of these anvils are sold for farriers so again not sure if it will meet my needs. I also understand about used and have no problem with that but I best use the money in hand now cause it may not be here later on if I wait. I thank you all for your input it really helps and I do appreciated it. Bill P

That will work for me I know where Somerville is been through it several times and no problem coming to pick it up. Just let me know when I'm in no rush and how much in amount of coal, money, and what I'll need to carry it tub, box, or trailer (I drive an old Jeep Cherokee) and I'll be there. If you don't mind me asking where do you go to get your coal? I just ordered a bag to hold me over till you go get yours and the shipping is murder. So I don't mind making a over night trip with the wife as we love trips and would be a good reason for one. Thanks Big John Bill P

I look to come in to a little money so I'll thinking of getting an anvil but just not sure which one. I know I'm just starting out but I like things to last and don't want junk so I'm willing to pay if worth it. So here is what I'm looking at; Cliff Carroll 125lb around 500.00 Peddinghaus 110lb double horn at 1000.00 TFS 100lb around 600.00 JHM Journeyman 125 lb for 580.00. To tell the truth the JHM or TFS look good but don't know anything about. As before any help will be appreciated. Thanks Bill P.

OK some have asked for pictures here are a few of what I have made. My forge, make do anvil and stand, tongs and so on. I also have one with my new blower I installed today and MAN it so beat out that hair dryer but you have to start somewhere. Oh, by the way the handles on my anvil stand I made those as well. Hope this is not to much. BP

Thanks for the info at some point in time I'll put it to use. I have been working with wood most of my life but just finished my first real wood shop this year. Now I'll really have a reason to put it to use, will also have to build a blacksmith shop now as well. (wood floor in the wood shop) Thanks again folks Bill P.

Thanks folks I do appreciate all who wrote, but to you Frosty my smile did kind of fade as my second set of tongs did not quite work out. I was trying to fit them for round stock but didn't quite work out like my instructions said. I have my own idea though and will try it out tomorrow. I also have some new equipment coming as well, a Centaur 2 lb. straight pein hammer as well as a Peddinghaus 2000g double face sledge. Thought about a Nordic 2lb or Diamond 2.25lb rounding hammer but they will have to wait. I also have a set of 5/16 Peddinghaus Wolfs jaws tongs coming as well a new Dayton 115v. blower I found for around $40.00. So I'll be busy installing and trying out new things tomorrow as well as fixing some others. Again Frosty you and all you other Alaskan folks best keep safe and stay frosty. That's a little far for a Tennessee boy to make a rescue trip but, if need be!!!!!!!! :cool: Again thanks all Oh! I almost forgot, can anyone give me an idea own how coal you may use keeping a fire going most all day. I know about charcoal but not coal just trying to figure cost. Bill P.

That really looks great I would say you did OK on the price. Which brings up a question, does anyone have a pattern on how to build a bellows? Size of the bellows does not matter as I can adjust for that. I really would like to build one to use at domestications as I get better. I would like to portray a 1800's to maybe early 1900's blacksmith. I know I could use a hand cranked blower but I can't build that, not yet anyway. Just all in my plain as I hope I progress. Bill P.

I know, I know, forgive me but I'm new at this and have no one else to brag to who understands but! I just made my first set of tongs yesterday and THEY WORK!!! Showed them to my wife and even she was impressed (some what). I'm not sure though if it was because of the skill it took to make them or the fact I could make something that worked. No matter why I'm all jazzes and planning to make another this time for round stock as these have flat jaws and don't do well on the round stuff (found out the hard way). I also made 2 handles to attach to my home made rail road anvil stand so I can move it easier, which is another story. I did learned a number of lessons though on how not to do something so the next time will be better. But, all in all it's still a blast to be banging metal and making something from nothing and I'm loving it. By the way my charcoal making is a bust, tried using it and would not burn well or as hot as the store bought. But at $5:00 or $6:00 a bag I can afford that and give up charcoal making till I can start buying coal.

I don't know but sounds like a good time to get the heck out of town. I know to many disaster movies butttttttt !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bill P PS The radio station I leason to hear in Tenn. was talking about your volcano best keep an eye out. Don't want to read about you in the news. BP

Red I tend to agree with HWooldridge I think the doo-rag might be the thing. Working you would worry more with sweat then sun or looking proper. Back then you always wore a jacket or vest to hide your braces to be dressed right but, when working a smithy I'm almost certain they didn't. Then again with a doo-rag you would be more practical and less likely to catch sparks then with a brimmed hat of that day. Nothing else you can't go wrong with the tricorn. We even had a Miss. unit go into battle at the start of the war waring tricorns. So they lasted a long time into the 1800's. By the way I will be more then proud to look you up if we get up your way and you can show me a thing or two I'm sure as I'm still green as grass. Thanks BP

Sorry Reb Thought you maybe new and was just trying to help. I have been trying to get up to Gettysburg for sometime but never seem to have the money or time when ever something is going on. My old unit the 5th Kentucky Co. E has been several times even taking part in the movie but I was never able to join them. Maybe my wife and I will travel up that way as she loves New York so may I'll get there after all. As for being a blacksmith re-enactor you sound like your doing just as I would like to do. I would not be doing it for a living just to help and be a part of the group. After all it's about tell history as it really was and not how some want it to be. I commend you on trying to look as period as possible too, most would just give a weak try and let it go at that. That was one thing about my old group we all tried to look as real as possible on and off the field. I think I have as many civilian clothing as I do military for that reason. Sorry I could not help keep up the good work. BP

Wow Didn't think It would get into all this when I started the question but it does give me answers. Being new I'm just not to sure with what is what so I ask. I have noticed that on some rebar I have cleaned up some have letters and or numbers on them maybe this can identify strength but then again maybe just the maker. But then again the maker can also indicate how good or bad the steel is. Anyway it something I use when I don't worry about what I'm using it for. Making holders for tools, racks, I even used 1" stock for legs but for tools themselves I need to count on, that's when I raised the question. I really thank you all for the input on rebar as well as charcoal. By the way my first batch ended up being no more then 3 or 4 handfuls of charcoal that was still slightly burning when I took it out. I doused it as little as needed with water and set it out to dry, then started my next batch. This one acted different then the first and I think may work out better but then again we'll see. Thanks again guys I'm glad to have someone to go to for this stuff. Bill P.

Reb I was a Civil War Re-enactor for about 12 years and may still show up form time to time if the event is close enough. I do or did a Confederate Doctor but have seen a number of blacksmith in my time as well. In fact I though about after I get more experience maybe going back and setting up at events as a blacksmith. Only problem no one wants to pay much for your work. One good souse of information are two magazines called Camp Chase Gazette or the Citizen's Companion both printed by Camp Chase Publishing (800) 449-1865. They have all types of articles and adds of people and places you might be able to get supplies from as well as events. For hats I recommend Clear Water Hats, WWW.clearwaterhats.com (870) 746-4324. They are not cheap but are really good I have three and love them all. As for clothing Fall Creek Suttlery (765) 482-1861 FCSutler@aol.com., Regimental Quartermaster www.regtqm.com. will help for a start. I would stay away from one called The Blockade Runner though had a very bad experience with them in a uniform they made for me it just was not good. If you can go to a good size to large reenactment that would be your best source. As a number of these and other sutlers set up to sell to reenactors and the public and you would be able to pick and chose better. I hope all this is helpful and not to overwhelming. If there is anything else you may want to know ask as I do tend to run on to much when talking re-enacting. In any case keep your look simple in clothing cotton shirts, in pants, jackets and coats wool, and tools used and hard worked and you will do OK. Good luck Bill P

I'm using a 32 or 35 gal barrel with 3 1" holes at the bottom. I put a larger metal plate that can close the bottom holes as needed. I half filled it with 2 x 4 pieces (I kept all my scrap wood from my wood shop in dog food bags for camping fire wood till I found out about making charcoal) lit a fire but only let it burn for 10 or 15 minutes then put a metal plate on top of the barrel. I had a lot of smoke that kept coming for over 4 or 5 hours. So I'm not to sure if what I'm doing is right or not. I'm kind of use to trial and error in working things out so we will see. But what you have told me will help for the next batch no matter how this one turns out. thanks BP

No Pault17 that's funny while waiting for my frist batch of charcoal to cook at home, I went by our Kroger and picked upped a half gal. of milk and a 5lb. bag of lump charcoal and used it today for a small project. As for my wife she wants a metal candle chandelier for the patio. Kind of big for a beginner I know but I came up with a design that I can handle and that she likes. May have to wait for a regular anvil first though. BP

OK I'll give it a shot, I just picked some flat 1" x 3/16" to see what I can do with that for tongs. Thanks guys Oh! has anyone ever tried to make charcoal using a barrel? If so I got a few questions on that as well. 1# just how long does it keep smoking when you put a loose fitting lid on with only 1, 1" air hole open at the bottom? BP

I was wondering has anyone ever try using rebar to make tongs? I have several sizes of rebar rods and need a couple of sets of tongs. Can it be done and if so is it worth it? I know grinding or beating the ribs off is a job in itself but is the rebar a good material for tongs? After getting several different drawings and instructions on making tongs I thought about trying to make my own. Plus I found a way to make my own charcoal as I have a lot of wood scraps from my wood shop and a small metal barrel why not, anything to save money. Again any input will be more then welcome. Bill P

I like it really like it, I needed a good laugh and you just gave it to me thanks. BP:D

No, he is my wifes 100lb baby (5yr old lab), he was just pouting because he was not the center of attention. I only run him off when I'm welding and when I'm hammering the noise makes him keep his distence. Any other time he is under foot and topping out around 100 lbs. that's alot under your feet. And no he does not hunt or retreve duck only snacks.

Here are the picitures of my new forge and my welding table also made from scrap metal from the junk yard. Or at least I think I got them loaded. BP