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I Forge Iron

billp

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Everything posted by billp

  1. Thanks Mick It kind of helps but then again???? I do know I would give my left something or rather to get a hand crank blower. It does seem to me that the hand crank is the best answer but, I just can't fine one around in my area. My grandfather had one on his farm but I was about 10 or 11 when the family sold it off and heaven only knows where that blower is today. Anyhow I'll keep looking and working out the problems of the electric blower. thanks again Bill P
  2. Now I was looking for an answer to the question of how big of a blower do I need for a coal forge. I had placed this question on another post but I fear it has gotten buried in the back so I'm re-posting it here for an answer. Now specs were given by Goatman on air pressure and pipe size in the other post, but they left me scratching my head and still not sure. I know, I know a box of rocks and a bag of hammers may be smarter, BUT? I have a fire pot 6" at the bottom 8" at the top with a 2" depth, home made, my blower will be about (including the 90 degree turn) 6" to 8" from the bottom of the fire pot. This will go into a table 2' square and for right now no hood. OK, now I'm looking at 2 blowers; one has 60 cfm, .42 amp, 3,030 rpm, 1/25 hp. The other 148 cfm, 1.37 amp, 3160 rpm and 1/25 hp. both have adjustable air inlets, which is the better choose? There is only about $8.00 difference in the price but the smaller one has a round discharge while the other square. So for me the round is easier to rig up to the forge but I still want the best for the job not the easiest. OR, to make matters worse are either of these blowers right or do I need something smaller or bigger? Now Frosty did respond before but still left a few questions for me, sorry Frosty. So you see I am still very new and know very little but slowly and surly I'm getting better. And yes I do plain on going to classes but only one place near me teaches and want start back till the first of the year. So for now it's books and the help from all you much more experienced guys out there who I really do appreciate. Again if it's not asking to much, Help! Bil P
  3. All good points given, and as I am a short man at 5' 4", anvil hight or slightly higher 2 or 3 inches sounds good to me. When I built my tire rim forge I didn't worry to much about hight using 1" rebar for legs I made it about the hight of my work table. But now my work table is a bit higher then some needing to be closer to my work cause of weak eye sight. But, again after all your remarks about lifting and early fatigue I may go back and shorten all. I just want this new forge to be as right as possible as I plan on using the table for quite a while replacing fire pots as needed. In fact if I get to the point of doing demo's this more then likely will be the forge I use for that building or buying a bigger more suitable one for my planed smity. Thanks guys Bill P.
  4. OK, I checked the BluePrints, and all the other information I have at my disposal and in all of it I can not find any one giving a good height for a forge. Now as I'm trying to build my second forge after the tire rim one I want it as close to right as I can get. The new one has a 2'x2' (give or take)table and a "DROP IN" fire pot. Now my thinking is this ,that at belt height on the user would be a good height. But, for safety reasons or other reason I'm not aware of what would be a good height? Or is it just up to the builder and his or hers judgment or preference. Again no offense taken as all advice is good be it good or bad as all help teach one way or the other. Bill P.
  5. OK Now I was looking for an answer to the question of how big of a blower do I need but still not sure if I have found it reading all your specs. I know, I know and yes a box of rocks and a bag of hammers may be smarter, BUT? I have a fire pot 6" at the bottom 8" at the top with a 2" depth, home made, my blower will be about (including the 90 degree turn) 6" to 8" from the bottom of the fire pot. OK, now I'm looking at 2 blowers; one has 60 cfm, .42 amp, 3,030 rpm, 1/25 hp. The other 148 cfm, 1.37 amp, 3160 rpm and 1/25 hp. both have adjustable air inlets, which is the better choose? There is only about $8.00 difference in the price but the smaller one has a round discharge while the other square. So for me the round is easier to rig up to the forge but I still want the best for the job not the easiest. OR, to make matters worse are either of these blowers right or do I need something smaller or bigger? See I am very new and know very little but slowly and surly I'm getting better. If not asking to much Help! Bil P
  6. Now you see Frosty, I wasn't going to say anything cause at some point or time I'll do the same thing but, I understood what you meant Sweany. Bill P
  7. SEE I told you I was learning I didn't know or thing about all you said but in my ignorance I would come more near doing the wrong thing instead of right, BUT! Somehow just dropping it in seemed more right then wrong. On what you told me I'll also see to it that I leave enough space open in the table so the pot can expand and not make it to fit. After all don't want a fire pot popping out full of red hot coal or in my case charcoal. Thanks Dodge Bill P
  8. Will after all the great advice and very numerous opinions I have decided the leather is off BUT!! After looking at Uri Hofi's style and grip I'm starting to think about redoing the handles on some of my generic hardware store hammers. As I find like my baseball bat I tend to choke up on the handle. Hofi's grip really does make since as, like I have stated before, with age and less use in the past I have lost hand strength. But with the Hofi grip I find it easier and helpful as I rebuild strength. So thanks again for all the input. Bill P
  9. Gee Locky Mine compared to yours mine is going to look like the country cousin, will post a picture when I finish it. I'm also building a new table to go with it the new fire pot it will be somewhat bigger then the tire rim forge I have now. Now I making this pot to just drop in and am not welding it in to make replacing easier when the time comes should be OK like that right? Still debating on whither or not to double up on the thickness. For all the time it takes I may just leave it be for now as Ramsberg said I can always make another and put the extra metal on making the table a bit bigger. Bill P
  10. John got back to me by email and they are out of 175's so now I'm back to square one. Oh well
  11. Yes more information and or instruction please. Bill P
  12. OK I came back to this sight cause this is where I started. BUT, I'm having trouble getting in touch with Blacksmith Supply in trying to order a Euro anvil. I have emailed and called leaving several messages. I know they are still doing business cause I ordered a hammer from them and it's on it's way to me now. If I can't get in touch with them by tomorrow I'm going to have to order from someone else buying something else. Trouble is I don't know of anyone else selling Euros and I'm sold and want one. So, If anyone can explain why I can't get in touch (family trouble, business trouble, etc.) I can understand but if not will!!!! Then if anyone knows of someone else selling Euros please let me know that too. I do want to use Blacksmith Supply cause they are the ones I first found the anvil on. But I can't do business if no one contacts me. HELP!! Also if I'm wrong in putting this up I apologize just not sure who or what too do at this point to be fair. Bill P
  13. Your right my next investment after my anvil (if I can get them to respond to my request) will be an O/A rig. I was able to work out my "Hole" problem out this time but your right it would solve a lot of problems to be able to cut it out with a torch. And yes there are several shops around me (no smiths that I know of) with in 10 miles or less I could go to for a little help, but. I'm just one of those guys that hate to ask for help grew up an only child and just learned to work things out on my own. So far everything is working out at a half finished stage just had to take a break. I know it may not be the pretties thing but I bet it will work. (I hope) Bill P
  14. Thanks guys I'll check out all the information you gave me and give it a whirl. By the way the 2'x3' piece I mentioned is diamond plate just didn't know what to call it. Thanks again Bill P
  15. Has anyone ever tried to make a really nice fire pot? Not the type of thing like I did with a tire rim or brake drum but more like the ones you buy? Will I have gotten this really crazy idea on trying to make one and build a new forge to go with it. What I'm looking at is about 6" square at the bottom 8" at the top and 2" deep with a 1" rim or lip. Now I have two types of metal I can use one is several pieces of 2' x 6" and 3/16" thick which has destroyed 3 drill bits with 5 attempts and only 2 holes completed. Then the other is a plate about 3' x 2' about 1/4" thick. Now this leaves me with question of should I double the pieces for the pot or not, just how thick should the pot be? Now I know it will require a lot of cutting that I will use a hand grinder with a cutting disk for this job. For the welding I will use a stick welder which is small and will take some time for this task. Which leaves me with only one final problem of drilling a 2" hole for the air blower/ash dump. Now I can't do this so I may take it to a shop I know of and see if I can get them to cut the hole, who knows. Anyway I looked around and didn't see anyone putting anything up on doing this. So I was not sure if I'm the only one crazy enough to try, or just less trouble and a better product just to but one. Now I have already made a pattern out of paper to get all the angles down and such and feel pretty jazzed up on trying. I just want to know if it has been done and with what type of success. Which I know it has to have been done as I have seen to many folks making to many other things. Let me know what you think. Bill P If I wasn't so new I wouldn't ask so many questions.
  16. Alwin you make good sense something I never though of I'll try the looser grip which may be the answer to all my problems with fatigue in my hands. I'll try the oil as well jimbob if nothing else it may help with my fingers splitting open from dryness. As for Aurthur that's just a nick name for arthritis. When I was working in the medical field we would come up with little names like that for different things. Sometimes not realizing everyone understands what we're saying but then again sometimes that was the idea too. I just didn't want anyone to get the wrong idea about who or what Aurthur is. Gotya Pault17 Bill P
  17. Has anyone ever tried wrapping the handle of your hammers with leather to help improve your grip. I find as I have gotten older and have done a little less work with my hands I have lost some of my hand strength. Now that I have taken up blacksmithing I do fair and hope to get stronger as I do more but my friend Aurthur who now lives in my hands and most joints does not help much ether. So, I though of wrapping leather on the handles of my hammers to help me and make the handles a bit more gripible (if that is a word) and help keep the movement of the hammer in my hand down as much. Just curious if anyone has ever done this before and if it helped or just cause more problems? Any thoughts? Bill P.
  18. Just to add my two cents worth as I have been looking to get my first anvil as well. I would tend to save up a bit more money and go for the better anvils all the others have talked of. As for Harbor Freight Tools it's been my experience that even though you might get a good one every now and then I look at all there tools as throw away tools. Something you get till you can afford a better one as they have never held up for me no matter what I have gotten. But I still buy things from them from time to time so there not bad just badly made. As for the anvils I have seen them in the past and even then not know what I do now I realized they would not hold up for long. Right now I use a railroad rail about 6" long and it does a so, so job as the slight curve does give me a little trouble. But it will do till I get my first anvil which I hope will only be a matter of a week or two. I have the RR Rail mounted to a plate used to hold the rail to the cross tie and the holes for the spikes work well for a hardie hole. There are pictures in my gallery if you want to take a peek. So hope this helps. Bill P
  19. Thanks guys the Euro anvil it is. First because of the strong comments and advice you all gave then secondly cause it just looks so darn good. Nice heft, thick body, and from the pictures looks to have 1 hardie and 2 pritchels. May have to start with a wood stand though, have a good design of one made from 2x12's I'll try first. Later on as I get the material will definitely build the tripod you mentioned Firebug as it does look more substantial then the wood. But I think I'm going to have to go with the 175 lb.anvil for the ease of being able to move around. If I had the smity I'm planning to build in the future I would go with the 286 lb. instead. But cause I have to move it on a regular basses to work and store smaller will have to do. I'm sure though as time goes by and my plain develops I'll get the bigger and use both as I'm starting to learn a lot of blacksmiths do. Plus right now most of my work will be small ornamental type stuff pickle forks, candle holders, fire pit utensils that sort of stuff so the smaller should not hurt, I hope. Only big thing plained right now will be a candle chandelier my wife wants for the patio. Which will be the bargaining chip with her for me to get the anvil. See I have learned a thing or two even if this is my second time around. So thanks again it really does help to get the opinions of those who have been ahead of me to help make the road a little easier. Bill P
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