Pat Roy

I tried Google Sketchup when it first came out but not lately. What is with the new version with the prohibition to making a profit? How does that happen? I use AutoCad Lite (2d) for some things but have taken some drawing classes which I find more user friendly than some of the 3d drawing software.

Not only is WD-40 not enough, it is not a lubricant. It evaporates very quickly and leaves you with nothing; grease as per Mr. Powers.

I would try some of these ideas on some copper scraps and hang them outside for a while to see how they survive.

I think we have a "failure to communicate" here. The structural integrity of the material and the weld need only meet or exceed the demands of the application. Also, asking someone if he is "xxxxxxxxxxxxxx edit xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" is an insult no matter how many follow up statements try to modify the comment. I would expect to get slapped up the side of the head if I said that to someone. I don't think Brian is making his point and he should re-phrase it rather than just repeating it. "Slaps" in the form of formal warnings have been issued to the offending people.

I picked one up a few years ago for $400 including 4 sets of dies. I have seen people asking $1000.

Dave, a roll of TP doesn't weigh much. I wouldn't change size for either of these applications, unless someone is using the towel bar as a chin-up bar.

First you have to create patterns for the various pieces. This may take a couple tries to get it right. I start with paper and transfer the outline to the metal (copper) using a fine point sharpie, cut out the pattern with aircraft shears. Then start working the metal; texture and shaping. The different colors (not really obvious in the photos) are achieved by flaming with a propane or butane torch. Different degrees of heat result in different colors. Practice on scrap. The stem is a steel (or stainless steel) 3/16 diameter rod threaded on one end. The flower parts are drilled to fit on the end of the rod and held in place with a brass nut below and a brass cap nut on top. The leaves are brazed to the shaft. Everything is finished with clear coat which unfortunately takes away some of the patina on the copper. Texturing and shaping is where the art/craft comes in. I have taken a few repousse classes which have been very helpful. That's it in a nutshell (as usual nothing is as simple as it first appears and your mileage may vary). Good luck.

I use 16 ounce copper flashing from the lumber yard.

My first try at an iris in copper.

I didn't try to teach myself, I took a repousse class at a local school. That gave me a good base to start with. I picked up some tools and use copper flashing from the lumber yard (16 ounce/sq ft). I do a lot of reading and look for videos on You Tube. Now it is just imagination and practice.

My fire box has a plate bottom with two slots 3/8 inch wide that has been doing a good job for me. If it begins to plug up I reach in with a poker and clear it out; the simple clinker breaker.

Stephanie, Here is my experience in two shops. I used double walled pipe at the roof penetration and single wall for the rest of it. I used 8" diameter with essentially no bends. That is just barely good enough. If I had more money for the installation I would have used 10". Another consideration with natural draft is that you also need to let air into the room to replace that going up the stack, else the fire will be starved for oxygen and you may have a smoky shop. If I were still in Gray you could see my shop but I have moved to the coast. If you are on facebook and can find me there, I have an album of my shop pictures.

Well, I'm not in Tim Miller's league I can tell you after visiting his web site. Initially I was a weekend blacksmith and then as I became "retired" I began to work in the shop any day I wanted, but not everyday and not necessarily all day. It isn't often that I work with 1" or 1 1/4" stock, but I have, and I do some forge welding. So I haven't kept track of the hours the fire box has seen but after 9+ years there is no sign of wear, erosion, corrosion or any form of degradation. I'm not worried about having to make another.

Stephanie, I really like your tree image. I'm very fond of trees and copper works. Nice.

I have been teaching at a nearby historic farm museum. I started out with a 5 gallon bucket of my own tools but as time wore on and we advanced to different topics and projects more tools were added to the mix and by the end of the 6 week course I was dragging in 3 buckets and an arm load of text books. It's all good though, I'm comfortable with my tools and the farm smithy doesn't have everything we need for the projects we undertake.

Very interesting Frank. I have a small (4") leg vise that came to me without the spring and mounting hardware. The mortise was there of course and I made up what I needed to mount the vise. It was also missing the wedge for the pivot beam pin. The screw and box are not in very good condition but I have used it for a couple years. I never realised it might be as old as 1800. I have not found any markings on it.

As far as durability of a steel fire pot goes, I made mine from 3/8" plate and it has now been in service for 9 years with no sign of degradation. I'm thinking I'll never need to make another one.

Someone is pulling your leg. A36 steel is structural specification for shapes used in bridge and building construction. It is pretty much plain jane carbon steel, not an alloy.

SBrooks, Nice work, I like that piece. Do you have more? I do some repousse on copper and get different patinas with a small torch, no chemicals. I remember you from the Royal River R & G Club, but I moved to Belfast a few years ago.

I have a Jet and had some problems. One was poor quality blades that broken on the weld. The supplier replaced that. Other problems were related to blade alignment; are you getting a straight cut? Is the blade tension correct? Are at least three teeth engaged in the material you are cutting?

Quint, the number stamped on the side of the anvil may or may not be the actual weight. I have two HB's, one is stamped 011 on the side but I know that it weights 163 # because I weighed it. Looks like a good tool whatever it weighs.

Green coal will smoke like that until the volatiles are burned out. What you have left is coke. Perhaps you should by coke if the neighbors will complain.

I have two vises in the shop; both are mounted to portable stands; both have a small shelf for small tool storage. They are fairly heavy but slide around on the concrete floor and they are stable in use.

I'd use it as is. If it ever breaks, then repair it. Just for reference, I recently bought a 5 1/2 inch vice (no markings) in good condition for $85. I guess I'm in a different market.

Looks like pictures of a static museum display. No coal in the forge, no smoke pipe, no hammers or tongs in evidence. I smell a troll.