Hans Richter

Looks good JHCC !!! whats the final weight of the hammer head? Cheers, Hans

As a sequel to the refurbished tongs, swags and hammer, I made a number of racks for the anvil stand to provide at least 2 students with the necessary tools for the workshops. If it turns out that they are in the way during the forging, I can still remove or move them.

@JHCCThat is better too. perhaps I sometimes earn the 'tar and feathers. B.t.w. what’s the progress on the treadle hammer. very curious of a complete picture of the setup. Personal I advise some knot plates on the most stressed positions like the ‘angle’ points and foundation.

Angel = angle but you dont even know what I m doing out side the shop

Next Saturday I have ‘Christmas, Birthday and Thanksgiving at one day’. Able to pick up my brand new welding machine and plasma cutter. Arranged by a friend of me, wrote his welding procedures and quality handbook in my free time for his metalwork company. Now he is ready for ISO certification. Some specifications about the ‘toys’ -Pulse inverter welding machine is able/equipped to carry out 3 different welding processes SMAW, GMAW and GTAW (stick, MIG/MAG, TIG) up to 200 Amps. Also able to change polarity for aluminium welding. -The HF-inverter plasma cutter is able to cut up to ½ in mild steel plates with a reasonable size and accuracy of the torch. ‘Good by stick welding’ with the 160 Amp hardware store stick welder and the noisy angel grinder. Want to use the stuff to build scrap sculptures and cut out blanks for ornaments and signs. Keep you updated with the results of course. Happy Hans

Refurbish a couple of fullers, hammers, top swags and tongs for the upcoming workshops. Will treat the hammers and handles with a layer of double cooked linseed oil and the tongs to. Will see how long its maintain outside with all the humidity. Mike -nice to see how Brody is punching the sculls

almost too good to beat on it

Counterholds and head setters for riveting together ship plates, bridges, boilers ?!

I start with a single stroke compressor 2.5hp and a small air vessel (6 gal/100Psi) to end up with a big disappointment after several strokes. On the web you will find many calculation tools helping to count the air you need. In my case, I use a 2in bore cylinder with a stoke of 13in which results in a consumption of approx. 105 atmospheric gallons per minute on at least 120! Strokes/min. At this moment I have a capacity/vessels of 85 gallons on 145Psi which allows me to run the hammer 3 to 4 minutes before the compressors (now 2 single strokes) have to run again (after this time your work piece cooled down). The cylinder have to run on at least 95 Psi to create the full impact for a steady contact between the dices. During the choice of the cylinder keep an eye on the fact that you only can take advantage of the half of the stroke/reach of the chosen cylinder because the 'LZ' air hammers pneumatic schema is based on the law of the communicating vessels which means that the max. distance between the dices are 6,5 in instead of the 13 in cylinder range of the cylinder himself. But as Latticino say it depend on so manny factors. Good luck.

During the last couple of months I seen some different threats about induction past my way. In none of the post I have seen any warning about the danger of this technology. While working with induction especially the DIY devices, you produce in the worst case a lot of EMF (electromagnetic field) radiation. This radiation is dangerous to your health if you are too close to the source or carry a pacemaker. So don’t wonder if grandpa is acting silly next to the forge, or you not able to reproduce yourself any more. In some countries they have research results that even an induction stove of some brands is not safe any more. Please consider this risks before you start to re-build some YT example and take some measurement on your existing equipment. Have a nice and safe day. Cheers, Hans

JHCC, thanks for the links, really nice. Because of the wear and tear, I buy a new pair after sliding through to the bottom and my tooth’s touch the ground (30 dollares). But to reinforce them will cost me the comfort. Read a lot about the arches height, I solve this with some grinding and sand paper, I have high arches to. The big advantage of wooden clogs is also, you have no sweat foots on summer time and no frozen foods in the winter. For the sissy’s between us, there is also the possibility to mount some leader belts over the arches/instep before they got the necessary callus there.

Hi Das, yes indeed this are wooden shoes, called ‘Klompen’ in Dutch. The best PPE’s I ever met. In Holland the Klompen are known as official PPE’s for pavement makers and street makers. They absorb the fall/shock in case something fall on it, and you easy slip out in case a hot piece of welding slack ore mill scale find his way to your instep. Like you see there pretty worn out because I wear them all the time. They made from soft willow or poplar wood witch worn quit soon on concrete floors. After you cultivate a good amount of callus on your instep you even climb in to trees or even drive your pick-up truck. Cheers, Hans

Spend almost all of my free time to finish the solid and insulated new part of the shop and his interior. The one on the left side of the first picture. After several years of forging outside under a tin shelf, you see on the right side of the tree. This becomes quit uncomfortable specially at this time of the year. Made myself at last a second small workbench witch fits better in the small new shop. Use the new shop for the ‘clean’ work like welding and gas forging and the shelf for grinding, cutting and the solid fuel forge. Now I’m waiting for the new welding machine (Saf-Fro Prestomig 3in1) and the plasma cutter to be able to assemble parts and prepare forging blanks instead of stick welding and grinding. Still have to grant my shop also two double glass insulated windows for more light and ventilation, next to the roof windows how not able to open. From March on, I want to start with the first workshops/Hammer-In’s for forging basics at groups of maximum 3 students. Worked out a didactic model, workshop program, syllabus and Promo flyer (unfortunately only in Dutch). Already have several candidates want to join. Even I build most of the equipment by myself, only the materials costs a fortune, and I’m glad about the patience of the house wife. Last wish is still a third (100lbs) anvil to carry with me, ones (in the future) I assemble a mobile smithy to join some social projects again. Cheers, Hans

@MotoMike Hi Mike, Keep on spoiling the boys and protect them with good advice, stuff and proper PPE’s. About the shop, first of all hi is quit new 7 months old and I use him only for smiting and welding. For the dirty stuff like grinding, cutting, mould making, casting and the solid fuel forge I have a second shop (nice shed covered with a roof and half open walls 20ft x 7ft) this space looks a bit more your shop I think. I do not have a nice cleaning lady, but I’m so proud to be a kraut and on my own ‘man cave’ that I clean the shop every time after stopping work. Regarding the power hammer it is a Larry Zoeller cloon self-engineered and made after the trial & error method. Finally I have a fine working strong and controllable hammer and I shared already several posts about it on IFI (look on my profile, will share also a PM with you about the specifications and improvements) Cheers, Hans VID_20180107_200831.3gp

Hi MotoMike, you are blessed with your grandson, I still have to wait for mine. But how ever, my daughter Lisa 15 y/o also give me a hand in the shop too, if necessary (missing the third hand). See my holiday job last June waiting for the plasma cutted prefab parts of the power hammer. Made one, nice to have for the own shop, and another one for a very good friend of my. It costs me 3 days’ work and about 15 pieces of 10inch cutting disks. Even our great role models Charles and Thomas are not always satisfied with the setup of it, I don’t know better. After all they teach me that the surface of the rail is harder than the base to deal with the abrasion of the train wheels and the base/foot of the rail road track is soft to absorb the shocks and be ductile to avoid fractures. Enjoy every, smiting hour with your grandson, this is the real quality time. Cheers, Hans

Hi Gents, my bronze is ‘brewed’, like our beer, after the German ‘Reinheitsgebot’ (pureness regulation) zo 10/12% tin and 88/90% copper no more no less, like a pouring/cast bronze has to be. If you talk about phosphor bronze, or aluminium bronze of even arsenic bronze, this are bronzes with a specific use, to made it extra hard, more resistant to salt water or acids or got a good turning result on the lathe.

Got it, sounds familiar about the pure copper cast and pay attention to it pour my next copper axe (charcoal). Regarding the bronze alloy I take adventage of the Borax witch take care of a calm melting bad. Many thanks, Hans

Hi Thomas, enlighten me, every feedback is more than welcome, regards, Hans

Just finished my first alloy-project and made from 6lbs pure copper and 12oz pure tin (Sn) a nice badge of bronze. Because of difficulties and expensive effort to get pure bronze base material I decide to make my own bronze ingots. Quit an exiting process, but after all very nice to see the result. Started to melt the copper on 1980°F without a pyrometer (slow spinning of the liquid metal in the crucible). I flux the melting bad and remove most of the dross. Pre-heat the tin on top of the furnace and add it slowly to the crucible. The alloy was swallowed by the base material without any huge signs of oxidation. And yes, I stirred the stuff to make shure I have a good mixture of the alloy, despite of the advice to avoid this -but without temperature control I couldn’t relay on the physical laws. Practice the rehearsal in the good ventilated solid forge shop outside with all kinds of recommended PPE’s like helmet + face shield, mask, safety boots, leather apron, high temperature gloves and so on. Ready for the next badge and keep on rolling (melting) Cheers, Hans

JHCC, really nice picture (of the dogs), didn’t post pictures of my dog after years with Bordeaux dogs, Staffordshire’s and German boxer's we’ve got now a Pekinese witch is very, very bad for my reputation ones we go out for a walk.

Finished the vice stand and give both (stand & vice) a paint job. Looking for a strategic position now to attach him to the concrete floor. Spoil all the moving parts of the vice with grease for a smooth functioning. Spend again a lot of time on deburring/slightly bevel all the parts before welding. What’s your opinion regarding deburring on all the parts you working on? The metal stockpile behind the vice will become a decent welding table this week. Cheers, Hans

Past by a good friend of my (owner of construction factory) today, to finalise the plan of action regarding his welding compliance and certification. Leave with about 500lbs of different pieces of mild steel of his ‘scrap pile’ . Just enough for fire pokes, twisted baskets, simple knifes, wall anchors and so one. Drive through the next CL- address and pick up a second vice (50 dollares) for the shop to be able to give smithy workshops for more then one participants, and end up in the local hardware shop to buy a decent CO meter to monitor the emission in the shop at full action. After preparation and set up a didactic model I’m finally ready to give my first decent workshop/hammer-in in the studio. Wish me luck. Cheers, Hans

1) Name, -Hansdieter Gunar Richter (no Nick name no hiding, just me) 2) Location, -Gingelom Belgium, small village in-between millions of fruit trees 3) What type blacksmithing do you do, what do you make, -everything from fences, to blades, tools, chandeliers and art work with more or less success or satisfaction 4) How and when did you get started in blacksmithing, -1984, a heavy 12 week blacksmith class was part of my professional education/examination as all-round maintenance mechanic 5) What object or thing did you use as your first anvil, -an 250lbs ………. anvil in class German pattern, later a 400lbs London pattern anvil on the ship warf I take over from the Warf landlord 6) Tell us about your first forge, -Solid fuel coal cokes forge 4 under 1 hut during class, same forge on the warf with an incredible worn out and noisy blower 7) Who assisted you or encouraged you in the craft, -my dad, hi was before his study for engineer a lock smith and mechanic too, hi teach me how to make my first own lock and conventional key and shows me many skills I still use 8) What event changed your attitude about blacksmithing, -all this young guy’s joined and assists me during the years and willing to start the fight against a hot piece of iron 9) What tool has changed or made your life easier in the shop , -my 55lbs ‘Larry Zoeller style’ power hammer make the solo work so much easier when you’re missing this third hand. Also my way to deal with a midlife crisis and realise a boys dream design/build the hammer, instead to buy a Harley Davidson or looking for a new 25 y/o girlfriend 10) What advice would you give those starting out in blacksmithing, -look for a mentor/teacher to work with, remember this will in some cases a symbiosis (after all hi is looking for this third hand too) and even hi isn’t so skilled as some of the comurgons here, remember “between all the blinds, ….. ‘one eye’ is a king” 11) What advice would you give those already involved in blacksmithing, -still learning (by doing) every day (setup gas burner, configuration melting furnace an PH) and not in a position to give any advice to my fellow blacksmiths. Knowing to much about my own shortcomings and points to improve 12) What are some of the interesting things that have happened to you in your life as a blacksmith. -being part of several social projects to reintegrate unemployed or difficult/low educated youngsters back into work process and society (busyness therapy/anti aggression, ship building projects of historic vessels)

LOL , they can broadcast it right after FIF as an theme evening. However the Argentina / Nazi connection was also the first suggestion comes up to my mind.

Mr.Powerssssssssssssss you know better?! - just board 50lbs (fraction 3/4-1inch) anthracite stored outside and wet as an ………… (fill in what your xxxxx mind suggest). Maybe a high air moister or rain isn’t a problem in the Texas dessert, in central Europe it is