Wesley Chambers

Well thanks as always Bob, ya learn something new every day when you listen. It seems as little as one in a hundred people in Ky even know what a marlinspike is, but I make them anyway! ;)

As I see it, It is his store selling YOUR work. I would prefer to provide my customers with the best I could offer them, even if they are second in the line of sale, because in the end if they come complaining to him, he can simply point the finger back at the maker... Best of luck!

I only thought marlinspikes to be thinly tapered and make them thusly: Do you have any photos of some that are shaped like the one in OP's pic? I'm always happy to learn a new tool!

My apologies for the late update, finally got to work a little more. Major file work done I still need some small work near the base of the bevel but Ill fix that before the next stage of sanding and HT. Heh, she bit me today too, a walnut dropped onto my steel roof sounding like a gunshot, just enough for me to slip and let the edge slice deep into the top of my knuckle, thus the duct tape in the photo, made a nice little split from a plastic fork to keep it from bending and opening the flap wide heheh my lady will have a few choice words for me when she gets home to see it I fear. I was looking at the cold steel boar spear this weekend at a friend's smithing booth, only 1/8" stamped steel, though a little longer than this one I think she will hunt just fine.

Good days work, Looks like ya had fun.

Thought I would post under this thread, A few months back a contractor friend of mine had his 14' trailer stolen, with all of his tools in it, that same trailer was sold along with 3 other trailers all at one time all the same day. Each of them FULL of tools , the tool cases of each trailer had different names on them, none of which were of the guy selling said trailers, anyway he sold them to "Dan's Discount Pawn" in Lexington, Ky. My friend was contacted by the police about his trailer being recovered when the cops recovered other stolen items from this shop, as they do every couple of weeks. He was not able to get any of his tools back because every case with a name on it was found dumped in a church dumpster a few days later so they couldnt prove they were his.. Anyway for some reason or another they never seem to be able to shut this store down and I constantly hear the ads for it, so please please please never shop there if you live in or around the area. /rant off

I was thinking machete, something thick and beefy!

I was thinking limb saw but the ones I've used are mounted on a shaft not hand held, but I bet your both right, the pocket would hold a thick set of hand shears, any hints on what the hole in the end was for?

Very nifty setup, I guess if the bottom tool was removed it would do the job well!

An acquaintance was cleaning out a shed on his property and found this sheath, he was going to toss it but I figured I could make something to fit. What I'm wondering is what did it hold to begin with? looks mostly hand made, outer shell looks like conveyor belt, copper rivets made possibly from nails, a plastic buffer with some small cut marks that could have been made from a saw-like blade its the curved shape and small round cutout from the end that confuse me. Edit: its about 20" total length

With the continued comments on how to scribe a mark I'm wondering if I'm just being messed with lol Bob- Sorry for the detail in the sketch, rounded points are a pain in the butt for me to make in google sketchup, all my fullers have just a slight radius to the cutting edge, the rocking motion helps me follow my path and as they are all farrier fullers they are curved to follow a shoe, so to make a straight line I cannot sink them flat or I get little crescent shapes lol John b.- I could see how the fuller you have with guide could wobble or be difficult to use, that thing seems massively chunky! as well as blocking the path of travel for how I would tend to use them, I think the same way as Bob describes about the "long axis of the tool is held over the line of cut and parallel to the edge" rather than perpendicular, but it could be that's just how I learned to fuller horseshoes so that's what feels right to me.

I've only use a one sided guillotine tool I made but I would think that with that type of action I would be more apt to lose alignment moving the piece in and out but I duno it could work? The easy way it to just use a rolling mill, or the godlike cheating powers of the Hebo machine.

Sorry I thought I made it clear in three or four posts now, I'm Skipping the marking step all together. Thanks though~

I use this a lot when building shoes, almost every farrier's fuller is curved for just this purpose, and set for either right or left hands. This is some of my early work that I have here in the house its a bit chunky but I hadn't had much practice at the time. Sorry for the rapid reply's Im about to head out wanted to post this~

yea could just use a crown bolt and nuts, rub a lil wax on the threads maybe simplified design:

I like this idea a lot, Ill be the first to admit I'll over engineer a project if given half a chance, maybe use all thread to make the adjustment easier, I like to have the wide plate to reference the parallel, if the whole face of the plate is in contact with the piece Im good, if its just a round rod my hand could waver left or right out of alignment

I couldnt find any pics of the twist so I ran out to the backyard and forged one, I always heard it called a ribbon twist, whats everyone else calling this type of fullered twist? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lS5NBs-ioU This took almost 20 min to do( getting the forge heated too ) mark, pre-crease, creasing heat, stop repeat on each side. I thought that I could skip this pattern with the attachment and just get a good yellow heat and run with it~ I duno just a thought if I ever have the scrap 1/2 and 1/4 inch Ill tack one together see how it goes

I use this method quite often with woodworking, and tapers are great but what I was after was parallel lines

Maybe my terms here have confused some, by depth I meant how coarse or fine into the piece Im going not how far down into it Im driving the fuller

Think you missed the idea of my tool, the point was to not have to mark it with a scribe but to hook it right on the fuller, skip marking step entirely. Bob- Im a bit lost more detail? Southshoresmith- when I fuller horseshoes I just use my calipers or an open faced wrench of the size I need, no need for a silver pencil just scraping lightly on the black heat leaves a line that is easily followed My goal for this type of tool was to have something I can quickly set to a depth, say .25" from the edge of say a 1.5" bar that is 4' long, I dont want to scribe 4' of metal, just heat as much of it as I can grab my fuller with gauge and run a nice straight even line parallel with the edge, make a quarter turn and repeat and in no time at all I have all four sides creased. Sure I could eyeball or mark all 4 side of the stock each time I want to move to the next face but it seems this can save me a ton of time.

The guide could be modified to clamp onto wooden handles as well as steel welded like some I use.

Was thinking of forging a scribe fuller today, Thats the only name I know them by: The short side does the creasing and the long glides the side of your workpiece. But I didn't like the idea of needed a new tool for each new depth I wanted for different stock. I decided to build an adjustable depth guide and these are the plans. If a tool like this is already made I haven't seen one. Thoughts?

I still believe my beard acts like a radiator when Im sweating and helps keep me cool. Though it does have that horrible side effect of soaking up the smells of the day, it can take quite a scrubbing to get the smell of burnt hoof off my face~

If your talking about the three curved pieces they are from railroad track, if I remember right they are used almost like clamps or tie-downs, used a few of them myself free .5 x 1.5 if I remember right. I only ever found them in old piles after a run of track ties were reset.

kinda out does my heat the lighter flint till red then throw trick.. but only by a little!