58er

Jim Yes. I've got the anvil/power hammer/vice in a reasonably spaced triangle from my forge. I mess with sculpturing for now but in the future who knows. My larger anvil will have me facing the doors. The smaller one and striking anvil can be placed once everything else is nailed down With oversizing the footing for the hammer I feel like I can safely tweak its position and anchor it with stud anchors once I'm happy. Its a reasonable plan I've done far more with far less planning

I had a guy from our MABA club over to get a few pointers from so I think I'm on right track. Only real unknown is exactly how much space new hammer will take up. I know the measurements but will make foundation for it large enough to move around a bit. Sometimes measurements and actual space needed around machinery ( hammer) can be different By tonight concrete should be ripped out, tomorrow concrete forms installed. Pouring Saturday morning. Hopefully getting hammer next Saturday if buddy can line up gantry crane to move hammer out of guys shop I bought it from.

Yes. Very good engine.

Thanks!!

Thanks- I'm struggling to layout the equipment. My wife just informed me I can have the whole shop which is GREAT, but I now I have to rework my plan and most likely eliminate the monorail. I guess a good problem to have. I looked for articles on shop layout but couldn't find much in the way of positioning power hammer/anvil /vice etc. Also, now that I have the room I'm keeping my old power hammer along with getting the new one...... Any ideas/opinions on shop component layout?

Thanks. can't wait to finish it. need to move on to the floor

Very cool

Thanks!!

Framed door. Hung monorail support. Hung door today. Kinda on the gothic side but. O well. I like it. Spaced out " hammer handles" to convert into door handles. I guess it matches my other shop.

Very cool

Door opening rough cut. Will be nice view of new pond that was dug last fall. Just need grass. Made hinges tonight.

Shop wall torn out. door roughed out. Kinda turned out a little different from original design. Need to make hinges and apply burned finish and windows. Door will be cut into 2x 30" doors.

very cool

Jalopy. Thanks. I will try. Will be excited to get back to building things. I am piling up the projects I will need to trade for needs and materials that will arise during the build. Already have 3-4 of the grape shelves and a few dragon knives promised in return for things. Slag. It is absolutely NOT fire resistant. Goes up in flames but burns out somewhat quickly and stays localized but really helps with the back Will install a combination of concrete and end grain in new shop. I have to pour new floor in shop so I may frame off portions of the floor in front of the forge and anvil and countersink endgrain into the design of floor layout.

thanks, long way to go....

Started complete shop rebuild today. Current shop occupies 2/3 of our old chicken coop. My wife paints and sells things so I'm going to rework the other 1/3 of coop into a place for her to sell her stuff but that means swapping everything around as far as layout of building goes. Im moving my entrance to opposite end of building with eventual plans of an outdoor work area. Cleaned out all her " valuables " and layed out 60" door. Going to install monorail also in shop. It will be nice as this layout will face our pond which we dug last fall here is a picture of the door that I will build ( or at least what I'm starting off with hammer/ anvil theme

Thanks. 4 stroke Honda clone engines. I get them from harbor freight

I had the guy measure the round base and it measured around 36" at first I thought that must be what the "floor space" measurements on the literature were referring to which would make it a 35# hammer which seemed odd. The more I thought about it I'm thinking the " floor space" measurements referr to the amount of space the entire machine takes up, vertical, parts and all , so I had him give me rough measurements of that which he said were " a little over 4' or so" which go in line with the 4'5" listed on the chart. That brings me back to 4400#. Ill take more measurements next time I'm there. Thanks for info.

I'm wondering if broken guides are what caused the switchout of the original leaf spring set up on this machine to what's there now I will look and see next time I'm near it which won't be for a while. I can zoom in on the pics I have and don't see anything as far as cracks but that isn't very definitive. The guides on my hammer do look different in the pictures I have. So maybe that, along with your info on broken guides solves the mystery as to why the change was made. Are the guides in your pictures repairable with a good clean/bevel/weld? i did not see 100# any where on hammer. That info came from person whom I bought it from and he may have heard it from the guy he bought it from. I'll go with your literature over here say. Where did you get literature? got anything else? thanks

The legs look sweet. Nicely done

So far. Looks cool.

Thanks guys.

very very cool

One last project before shop rebuild. Buddy wanted shift knob for rat rod. He said make it look like a scull. So. Best I can do. Thanks guys. First attempt at grapes. Grapevines. Leaves didn't turn out the best. Couldnt quite get the viens to look right.

Yes. Agreed on the steering of bikes of this vintage. The Harley replica has accurately bent handlebars and it's very difficult to ride. Takes getting used to. On the Indian I took a more modern approach when I bent them up. The indian is a more performance minded bike and will go 35-40 and is very stable. ( not ignoring the blacksmith puns. Just fresh out at the moment if I come up with one I'll coal ya) hehe.