Junksmith

Thank you. I'll look into it and see if it's cost effective.

I doubt it, but I thought I'd ask. I have a 1960's Sunstrand 2x48 belt grinder that is pretty much the workhorse for all my grinding and shaping. It's a solid machine, but the ribbed tread on the main contact wheel (6 inch) has reached a point of disintegration where it's getting noisy and starting to vibrate in a way that diminishes the functionality noticeably. I've found a couple of contacts wheels that are reasonably priced, but I'm wondering if it is possible to simply replace the tread, since the machine is vintage and the body of the wheel is perfectly sound. Is that something people do, or is it better to just swap it out? Thanks!

I've used old Ford wrenches from the early 1900's to make knives. I anneal then super quench with good results. Not like spring steel, but better than a spike knife. It's the Ford logo that really sells them.

Making your own tools may be my favorite part of being a blacksmith!

All wonderful ideas. Alan, yours in particular are going to be a game changer. Mr. Woolridge, I do have a v shaped jig made of angle iron welded to a flat. I just need to weld on a bit of a stabilizer so it doesn't walk on me.

Thank you everyone. The pilot holes weren't the greatest idea, but at least they'll be on the inside.

I'm in the middle of a garden trellis that requires pieces of 1/2" round bar to intersect perpendicularly at a few spots. The plan all along has been to slit the horizontal pieces of 1/2" round so the solid pieces can pass through vertically. Essentially a section of grate. What's killing me is slitting and drifting the round bar. I can make a single hole that's not too off center, but I need three in a row and can't get them lined up. I drilled pilot holes which was probably a mistake. the essential question is, can I take a length of 1/2" round bar and put 3 roughly aligned 1/2" holes in it? Wish I could use square. thanks

Hay-budden produced anvils between 1880 and 1920 in Brooklyn, NY. That at least gives you a date range. I've got two. Love 'em!

Off to a running start! Love the hammer. Let us know how it holds up with use. I'd like to redo an old one I have too.

I have a handful of farriers rasps and I can't bring myself to burn them up because they work so darned well! They'll file and rasp mild steel well enough, and I used one today to shape out an axe handle for a project. I'm going to need to get a few more before I can bear to experiment on any.

If you're in a hurry, a shot bath in muriatic acid will do the job in minutes... Of course you won't want to breathe that either!

I admit I do often have trouble with letter punches "skipping" away when I hit them. They're so tiny and I think my sausage fingers chicken out at the last minute when the hammer comes down. One thing that has helped is to make sure the item being marked is braced on a solid surface like the anvil. A wooden benchtop makes it harder to do.

Good ideas all. Fortunately, the individual has opted to sell or give it to a gunsmith for re-use since it is in good shape. I do have an old 12 guage breech that I cut off, welded shut and use as a horizontal mandrel for forming uniform J hooks. The lug under the barrel is perfect for clamping in a vice. Thanks for the input!

Before anybody gets alarmed, I am NOT making a gun of any kind. I have a friend who is offering me a Ruger 10/22 barrel to forge something out of. I told him I would rather see it put into a working firearm rather than waste it. If he insists, however, has anybody ever used an old barrel for a project? What kind of steel is it? I'm having trouble getting an answer for that online and I searched it here, but the term "gun" is banned in the search. I understand why. We don't want anybody getting blown up trying to forge one. Any thoughts? Unless they are perfect for some unusual project, I'm inclined to sell or donate it to a local gunsmith. Thanks!

You could try heating the welds with a torch until the temper color turns dark. Often when I'm finishing a piece, I'll heat the entire thing to black and dip it in oil (or beeswax). It makes a nice uniform finish. We'd love to see a picture.

Excellent rescources. I've downloaded them all to my tablet. Thanks for sharing!