C-1ToolSteel

Well, what is its intended purpose? I would love to have a forge like that for heat treating large blades, but not much else. In blacksmithing, even for large objects, you only need to heat the area that you will have time to forge in one heat. Once it is too cold to hammer, it goes back in the forge. A forge that heats way more steel than you can forge in one heat is wasting fuel.

Oh, looks like JHCC just replied.

Looks like a later Hay Budden wth solid tool steel from waist up. Very nice anvil!

I say, just look up the guy who posted the video. Does he have a website? Profesional smithing buisness? There are plenty of pros on YouTube with exeptional information in adition to outstanding lighting, etc. If you look up a video and can't find a pro demonstating how to do it, that should be a red flag! Find a few experienced guys you like and stick to them whenever you can. When you can't, procede with caution.

You could raidius the edge to varying degrees for different tasks and weld a piece of square stock to the end so it could fit the hardy hole. Then weld another one to the side to use it for drawing out. You could even leave a couple inches of the second piece square, then taper the rest, giving you a small bick  when the block is vertical. If that made any sense...

42 minutes ago, JHCC said:

No, I'm the one eating crow. Good catch!

Cool! Now I'm glad you don't do that every time I use incorrect grammar...

Hehe, I just noticed a couple errors in my own post!

On 9/3/2017 at 0:57 PM, JHCC said:

There are a total of 86 pieces...

OK, I will probably eat crow for this...

You said "there are" instead of "their is". I would of thought that because "a (1) total" is the simple subject and not "pieces", that "is" would be the correct predicate to match the singular subject. Correct?

BTW, the ONLY reason I am bringing this up is because I just think it would be the coolest thing ever to prove a grammar teacher wrong! 

I would't travel a long distance to check that one out. I'm leaning strongly towards ASO! 

Cast sweedish steel. Looks like a Soderfors. Do a rebound test for good measure, but that's almost a steal!!

When I quench blades, I first quench the blade without the handle (or just the edge for an edge quench) and keep just the blade in the oil until the handle is well below critical, then quench the whole thing. The handle will not harden once it is below critical.

A decent knife made at a factory with 0 craftsmanship will often bring a good 100 bucks if not twice that. I LOVE that knife. Next time you talk to that guy, tell him he can sell it to me for $60.

For right-handed use, the lower (visible) end of the eye in pic #3 is the handle side. By "patination", Thomas means that the high carbon bit will oxidize differently that the rest of the axe. Soaking it in vinegar will take the rust off and make the bit clearly visible.

Oops, Thomas already replied.

I have relatives in Huston that were stranded for a while with water in their houses, but they are out and safe now. Yes, we absolutely need to keep everyone over there in our prayers.

Not sure what color I am right now, but I'm envious alright!

I see.... a guitar case that is driving me crazy because it looks as if it is being used as a work bench!!!

Nice vise. It is really hard to figure out who made your post vise withought any markings. The deep chamfering reminds me of an Iron City, Indian Cheif, or Columbian, but who knows...

Looks like it is missing the spring which is very common and easy to make a new one. Good that it still has the mounting bracket.

That little axe was a good score for 3 bucks. Not a modified hammer. It's a broad axe, designed for hewing and shaping rather than chopping or splitting. You only sharpen the picture #3 side.

Woah!! I can't think of anything to say. That knife just speaks for itself...

Some people, when they see someone who is careless with their language, will wonder what other things they are careless about. A child who picks up profane language may miss out on opportunities later in life, such as certain jobs. There are many things I could go into, but I think we better just respect the rules and leave it at that.

Like Glenn said, we say "ruin" a lot when we should say "degrade". I mean, even if somebody takes ALL the temper out, it is still a usable tool. We have said it many a time ourselves: "any big chunk of steel with a flat spot works for an anvil."

What Buzzkill said.

I really think your issue is most likely because of a realitively coarse finish. Even a 220 grit finish will rust much more quickly than a polished blade. Learning how to properly finish blades (and buying plenty of sandpaper!) is a very big improvement. It is a good idea to dab a little oil here and there, but you would be amazed at how much more rust resistant steel can be if it is polished.

Peter Wright has my vote. In picture #2 you can see the classic "solid wrought" circle.

Counter offers can make or break you. The way the anvil prices have skyrocketed, It can be a challenge to find a decent anvil for a decent price. Especially on sites like ebay and Craigslist. Lots of people on this forum have missed out on an exeptional deal because that anvil was SOLD by the time they could come up with a counter offer to knock a few bucks off. Do your research BEFORE that deal shows up and jump on it when it comes along. Now, if you see an anvil collecting dust in you neighbor's barn, that's a different story, but don't forget that on ebay, there are hundreds of people lined up who are looking for a deal.

I think you did real good.

Yep, zit or no zit, the idea is to not grind the face. Treat your anvil's face like your own face. (taking this too far??) Just like I wouldn't reccomend (unless VERY expierienced) going to the bathroom mirror and plugging in the angle grinder...

Yep. That's no cast iron junk. Probably wrought iron with a steel faceplate. Most likely a Peter Wright. It's in good condithion.

Yep. 228 lbs is what it weighed at the factory. That is a great score at less that 1$/lb. Have fun forging on it, and whatever you do, don't weld or grind on the face! She's purdy.

Placing a magnet on the underside of the face should deaden the ring.