C-1ToolSteel

Nice forge. Your friend is very blessed to have someone like you giving him a head start!

3 hours ago, C-1ToolSteel said:

 . Looks good in the pic from what I can't tell.

Meant to say CAN!

Don't know how I missed this one, but....WOAH!!!! The pattern is so clear it almost looks face. 

Double points for left-handed.

Yep, seems to be a pretty good deal. That's one of those early Trentons that is made essentially like a Peter Wright. Do the ring test and rebound test, and just make sure the face is decent. Looks good in the pic from what I can't tell.

This is a really cool thread. Keep it coming, guys.

No metal detector, but I found this in our creek the other day. Looked up the markings on it, and it turned out to be over 100 years old. Top piece appears to be wrought iron.

Also, make sure that you aren't stressing the stem when it is has already cooled down to a black heat. It is an easy mistake to make, because the thin steel cools down very quickly while you are working on other parts of the leaf. If you are using high-carbon steel, this is even more of an issue.

Thinking the bottom word may be "WARRANTED".

Welcome to the forum, Jonathan! There is a ton of information on this forum, so when you are unclear on something, look it up, and chances are, you will find what you are looking for.

I very strongly suggest that you keep it simple, especially since this is your second blade. The clay idea, sounds like a recipe for failure to me. Depending on the size of the blade, you may be able to do a full quench, then a soft draw temper with a torch heating along the center, and letting the heat run out to the edge. It would have to be a pretty wide blade for it to work, though. My recommendation is just to do a full quench in oil, and a full temper in the oven. You will not be battonning a dagger, so you really don't need to worry about blade failure, for its intended purpose, if you successfully heat treat it. Why are you wanting to do a water quench? You will be dealing with temperatures in the thousands, and water can only heat to a maximum of 212 degrees, so not much difference in the long run! I suggest you stick with the methods that have been established and are proven to WORK. Good luck with it. I hope it all works out well for you.

It does that to me all the time. Clicking up at the top in the search engine, then hitting "search" fixes it for me.

Yes, 1/2" plate is more than enough. The "hot spot" of the fire is in the center, so you'd be suprised what you can get away with. I've used a grate made out if 1/16" steel wire woven together, and it lasted quite a while!

Face is in decent shape. Perfectly usable. I think I can make out maybe a "118" for the weight. 

It's an early HB with a faceplate. A good quality anvil. Condition of the face will determine its usefulness.

It appears to be an English made double horn. I rarely see them. Can't really identify English anvils with no markings, as there were many English brands. Nice anvil, regardless. Enjoy it!

Sweet anvil! That spot on the horn shouldn't be an issue of functionality at all, but it is in a place that could be welded withought hurting anything. UNLIKE the face of the anvil.

Nice knife! Seems to be a class of its own. Like a cross between a Japaneeze tanto and American Bowie. Pretty.

Yep, pretty sure it's a Hay Budden. Stinkin' sweet anvil you got there. The handling hole on the back foot is suprizing, though. 

Not fun at all. I'm praying for you, buddy. You can pull through this, and I'm praying that It will be sooner rather than later. 

Missed this post somehow, but you know I'm praying, bro.

On November 3, 2017 at 9:02 PM, Tubalcain2 said:

Well, you could at least keep it organized enough that you could walk through in the dark without taking surprise somersaults.  

Only people who don't know my shop.

Thanks, y'all. I can totally realate to the "file zone". I actually think filing is often more therapeutic than forging. ..for me, at least. I hadn't worked with brass much, so I was kinda suprised that it wasn't easier to file. Super easy to sand, though. 

Oh yeah, I guess that would be a drill, files, and sand paper.

Reverse side:

Small scale...but technically not blacksmithing. 

Made a hat band buckle out of a block of brass. Just a drill, and files. Don't ask me how long it took. Just worked on it here and there when I was bored.

58 minutes ago, littleblacksmith said:

Do I see the cupping tool we made in that picture?  

                                                                                                                                          

Yippers! 

54 minutes ago, Tubalcain2 said:

gotta love your shop chris. I don't think you could take a pic of anything from any angle without the background being full of...clutter.

You can say that again.... At least it's better than an empty shop.

I use a scrap block with a rag on the bottom for applying oil to the face. I keep a bucket of used motor oil in the shop, anyway, so whenever the rag is running out (it lasts a long time) just re-dip the rag. It's not messy. You only need a thin coating.

Very beautiful. I built a side-draft forge from reclaimed bricks once... Yours looks better!

Reminds me of the time I tried to make a silver dollar sized anvil, with a forge welded waist. I eventually gave up on trying to keep up with both tiny pieces in the coal forge. Don't you hate it when It eludes your tongs, and makes it all the way to the bottom of the firepot?!!