Dick L.

Interesting thread. I've been a toolmaker/ machinist for 32 yrs. The last 28 in the same place. We went from the old school machines right through to the CNC technology. I'm a firm believer that you need to know how to do it manually to be proficient with CNC. You need to know the setups. Speeds and feeds, cutter styles and toolbit geometry. Decimal equivalents and tap drill sizes. There is way more to it then just motion but you do need to know G code as well for CNC . There are a lot of conversational machines out there as well and each has it's own special needs. Long story short (before this gets to long ) learn all you can as the opportunity presents itself. Knowing the manual way will give you many more ideas on setups then just CNC and the tooling designed specifically for it. Chris, Someday I need to stop in Walker Machine, I have a 101 Scout. Dick

Brian , In the second photo, the lower right of the group . Are those to hold the collars firmly in a U shape while you close the ends? I notice they are different thickness but appear to be the same width opening. Are they held in a vise ? Your posts always present great examples and stimulate thought ! Thank you for taking the time to show all the techniques you use. Dick

Thanks Brian, Once I'm proficient with what I have I might try one of those. Those pictures are excellent and inspiring. Thanks for all you contribute here. Dick

Hi Brian, I have a question. In the photos, #7 of 8 there are handled tools hanging from your portable table. What are those used for ? Dick

Chris, It resembles a Fitchburg Machine Works lathe pretty close. They were made right here in MA. in Fitchburg. Dick

Real nice design, as others have pointed out it is simple but flows nicely. Looking forward to seeing more. Dick

Thanks Grant, The reasoning is obvious now! regards, Dick

Grant, I'm curious what the advantage of the flat spot is. I understand how they would hang flat side up by gravity but what is the difference flat spot or single line contact in this mount? regards, Dick

Welcome Dennis, your very lucky to have someone in the family with the experience to draw on. Practice is the key from what I've found but having someone to correct your bad habits and mistakes early on is real valuable.You will find a lot of very knowledgeable smiths here to draw from as well. I'm in MA. also. Dick

Here are three I've had for a good while. Used to de-burr everything from drilled holes to machined slots and corners in all types of material. When I apprenticed in the paper industry as a millwright the guys pouring the line shaft bearings in place had a special favorite that they only used for the babbitt bearings. You seldom see a newcomer to the trade with one. They all have the fancy specialized swiveling types you can get in all the tool supply catalogs. Dick

Thank you all for the great input ! Brian the tutorial is very clear thank you! Joan and I just got back from 4 days camping in Rocky Neck state park along the ocean on the CT. coast. The forks I've made so far got a real work out and held up fine. I made 3 like the one I posted and 3 twisted 304 SS tig rod 3/16" diameter. I forged out the tines and the handles on the stainless . I did cheat and tig the two rods together at the split and both ends of the handle. Now with the info I've received from you all I can refine my forged technique and have not only durable but pleasing to the eye as well. Like I said earlier I will post a photo of each technique when I do them, I really appreciate the input! Dick

Thanks Brian, Great illustration and explanation as always ! Dick

Thanks for all the ideas, they all are worth trying just to experience the different process. I'll post results when I try them. Dick from wet soggy New England :)

Yance, That was a good save! Now you know the steps to make a fine decorative hook with a carved animal head to boot! I think it looks great. Dick

That looks real good Wagon Master ! I try some animal head carving whenever I can. I takes practice for sure and planning. I think you did a great job on your first one. Dick

John, Great looking bowl ! I really like the look of copper and iron. Hope to try some myself some day. Dick

Thanks for the replies. I will be doing more to keep the hammer control getting better and of course so I can make forks . I just got back from a blacksmith demo in CT and one of the smiths was doing forks welding the second tine on. And doing a fine job of it to. Consistent diameter and symmetry ! QVEA Home Page Dick

Another good one ! Thanks Brian, so many things to try and to learn. Dick

Last night I decided to take a shot at doing a fork and I think it came out pretty well for the second one. However I was wondering what others do at the base of the split for the tines. I spread the stock out then hot cut with a chisel and fold one tine aside to draw out the other. when both are done I still have a split like crack at the joint. Do you just file it out? Does anyone punch a hole there before splitting? I need to make some spring fullers to make my transitions from section to section smoother. Dick

Thanks Brian, did you use it to do the copper leaves you made for the Tree Project or was that fold forming? Dick

Another great idea shared among smiths ! I will make one of these for sure. Being a bigger table then the anvil face it will also provide more support. Thanks for sharing ! Dick

Hello Brian, In the 4th photo, what is the 3rd tool from the top on the right side. It looks like a bottom tool for doing a line or viening a leaf etc. Great table design too ! Dick

I haven't tried the forge welding yet. Hope to before to long. Do you clean all the square bases with a file before assembling for welding or is just wire brushing enough? I expect you only need to flux the outer surfaces of the joints real well. Is this assumption correct? Wish you were on the east coast. Dick

Brian, As always outstanding work ! Is The base contained within square tubing for the weld? What is the wide piece in the middle of the bundle before welding? Thank you for sharing ! Dick

I would think you could easily burn steel in a 4" deep fire with the fuel your using. I have done it with the coal I'm using and not intentionally. Your blower might be stalling against the resistance of packed coke / charcoal in the pot. Bathroom blowers move quite a bit of air but at low pressure. A hair dryer will blow your hair right out straight. Bathroom exhaust fan is designed to be low pressure / high volume I think. Just a thought. Dick