Brian923

Before changing anything. Try putting an edge on the stock andncut, scrape, chop sone stuff and see if it dents or dings. If it does, then you'll have to see how hard it can get once hardent and if/how expensive that would be. Good luck

Well, I would finish it with the swells and see how it looks... you can always grind them down and re etch the blade if they look bad. But it's really hard to put them back on... knives look good!

I hear you on that. I'm not really that good at free handing

I don't knie if you use Facebook at all, but I see a lot of people selling good video equipment on there for some really killer prices. Just thought I'd share. Nice work you got going!

Thats great! Thank you! I have to get myself a contact wheel for my grinder.

Just wondering how you guys accomplish curved plung lines on the primary bevels of your knives?

Pricing is super hard. I have just started myself and am looking to make enough per knife to pay for the next one while making a small profit. But it's hard. Most people want a custom knife for the price of a walmart knife. Custom made and handmade just doesn't mean as much as it used to anymore. Even when they point out Topps knives or EESE. They don't realize they are cut out on plasma tables and made by the hundreds. Not one at a time. If you price to low, it's a heck of a time trying to ask for more. If to high, people walk away.

How did you harden it? It looks fantastic!

Thanks for all opinions guys. It helps a bunch. I'm thinking micarta is the way to go. I think the plastics, though easier and cheaper will be more fragile. Thanks again and I'll keep you posted as to what I end up doing.

Hey guys, I have a customer asking for a custom tactical hatchet/tomahawk. What he's looking for is the solid, 3/8" thick hatchet with a polymer style handle. Problem is, I dont know where to get polymer handles let alone know if they even make them for sale. He's interested in the likes of the SOG style tactical hatchet/tomahawk. Does anybody know if there is a company out there that sells polymer replacement handles? Thanks!

Heat treated and finished up! Splits oak beautifully with no vibration or hand shock when batonning.

Yes.. you should keep eggs in the fridge. It looks good. I'd say a finger stop would be about it. Looks like it would balance quite well in the hand.

Actually found a tool called a splitting froe knife... good to know!

Ok. Maybe not a froe either... but you get what my intention was... a kni-froe

Was going to use this as a kindling chopper (froe?) so I guess calling it a "blade" was the wrong word, but still a blade of some sorts..

Just wanted to share my first blade and piece that I made with my first forging attempt. It's an old open end wrench that had broke decades ago. I wanted it longer, but I melted the tip off in one of my heats... It's ready for heat treat then I will final grind and polish.

I'm using this stuff and so far think its pretty good. I've a novice beginner so don't rely on my words pat say. I have been able to melt 2 out of the three projects I have started so far so I know it will get up to very hot temps. The price by me is 4.99 per 40 lb bag. Hopefully I'll get a better grasp on this soon and stop melting all my projects into clinker.

What did you use to fold the steel around to create the eye?

Please please please post pics... this sounds very interesting. Good luck!

Scored some 4140 crank shafts from work today. In my quick Google search looks like some good material for some tomahawk's! What do you think?

Wanted to post a pic of the grinder I just finished and a pic of my first knife. The grinder is all made with scrapes around my shop. Everything was made in house except the plastic taking wheel that will be swapped out with my own steel tracking wheel. Motor is a 3 phase 1.5 hp motor and I'm running a 2.2k VFD. All I need now is to whip up a table. My first knife. O-1 tool steel. Think I'm going to do a simple paracord wrap on this one, but that could change. Let me tell ya, grinding those bevels without a table rest was an eye opener.... heat treat was done in a wood fire box with a hairdryer and some black iron pipe. Brought it to non-magnetic and quenched in canola oil and tempered at 450 for 2 hours.

Another score. Payed $60 for the vise and a bunch of scrap steel

Will do. Here's a pic of another swag and my anvil. Got all the parts and pieces, now i just need time.. that's the hard part.

Here are some pics of the miscellaneous items I was able to pick up...the rasps say "save edge" U.S.A, b save edge find land and Simonds race trak.. trying to see if any of these would make good candidates for rasp knives

Thank you everybody. I will get some more pics up soon once I get back to my shop.