jacobd

Let's see pics of work! If you can do well with limited tools imagine what your work with better tools would look like!

I hear you, I got a buddy in Colorado, I may have to go pay him a visit one of these days. In the coming winter. He promised me a moose hunt. My 300 Win mag has yet to draw blood. So I may just to find out what cold is. However idk if I have the clothes for this. I got cotton thermals. Then fleece sweatpants, and then mossy oak outer denims. I still get cold sitting in a tree in the 20's. Assuming much of this is an anatomical adaptation (like how Inuits faces stay warm even in howling Alaskan winds), I seriously hope we don't do any stationary hunting! :D

Can you put a photo in a reply from a mobile device?

I've never been outside of Texas except in the summer, so idk what cold really is. Haha. It's been in the teens outside and it felt like some kind of divine punishment. How cold does it get where your from Frosty?

Easier to get warmer than cooler? :0 You can always put enough on but not always take enough off. I know what hot is. I live in central Texas. In 2011 my last football season before I graduated we had days around 104-106 and 50% humidity. :) makes a believer out of you about quality AC haha. However when deer hunting in only 20 degree weather I suddenly find myself wishing for the 105 heat! ;) (Heat index in my area pushes 115 from time to time, standing next to a forge in that heat hastens me toward building a insulated and cooled shop)

Awesome video. I gotta make me a pair or 10 of those!

I got you. I think I know what I want to do.

Very good point, I only bought this one new because it carried the blessing of the anvilfire guru, and quenchcrack. It is a cast ductile iron anvil, face hardness 52Rc, and I would need counseling if I broke it. Thank you, very good point, tighten it like a cylinder head, follow a pattern and move a little at a time. I don't think it would happen, the feet are quite thick, but I will definitely move as though that is a serious risk. If I broke it I would probably just go crazy and start hoarding cats......

I am digging the nut idea, but I'll need to mount something to the side to put the bolts through. The stand is enclosed, no way to get inside the stand to mount from there. I bet some Simpson angle brackets, along with glue and screws would hold a 2x3 pretty well. I need to make sure I'm not adding to much to the side where it has me bending over to work on the anvil. One more idea to hit you guys with, y'all have given me lots of good ideas. What if I took 4 pieces of 1/4x1 about 3" long, drilled a hole at each end and in the middle, then ran 4" lag screws half way in through the 2 end holes and put a nut on the bottom of the middle hole and ran a blot through the chain into the nut.... I may be over thinking this...... I just got to have this thing portable until we build a shop later this year. It's pushing 200lbs right now. Not a matter of ability, but of will power haha.

Stand is not completely hollow, there are support boards in there. I saw a pic on here of a anvil stand with like 6" casters screwed in on the bottom of one side. With conduit brackets screwed in the side to run pipe through and wheel it around. I just don't want to trip on one of those while holding something warm...

I might use lead sheet if you think that would make it quieter.

I plan on cutting some plywood footings from 3/8 scrap from work, and doing a layer of silicone in that, but this anvil rings like a bell, I'm not hot on the chain around the waist, but torquing it down on silicone should have it at a manageable level. Bolts I can remove, adhesive I can't. Just figuring out how to torque it down is my problem.

Spikes would keep it from walking, I wouldn't have any problem repurposing a few of my RR spikes for that, but I want to torque it down to that base, not using an adhesive, I won't have a shop built till closer to Christmas. So it's all about portability for the time being.

Silicone*

Btw the vertical sections of 2x12 are 3 running one way, 2 pieces like end caps, so 5 vertical 2x12's in total.

Hey guys, I'll include a pic if I can figure out how, but I made my stand to be rather light out of 2x12's, and I'm wondering if y'all think 4 lag screws with chain tightening the anvil down will take the stress. My concern is that lag bolts will pull out of the 2x12 over time, I was going to tighten it pretty good with a air wrench. Also I want to put a layer of silicon to deaden the noise. I wish I had put bolts and washer in before I glued and screwed the xxxx out of it. Hindsight is always 20/20.... My other idea is to glue and screw 4x4's to the sides running lengthwise with the anvil. And run washers and bolts through that. Just wanted some second opinions. Thanks!

I see all these pictures of the big pines falling and all the snow, and living in central Texas I have had almost 0 experience with either. Geography related difficulties seem more powerful than I realized.

My standard anthracite coal fire will be around 6" deep. The cfm of that little mattress blower won't be enough after static pressure if figured in. Also I'm not running a y1k forge. I'm running a full sized shop forge. With that anthracite I'll definitely need something continuous duty. Or my fire will keep going out.

If I can minimize contact time I was thinking it would last ok. Stainless seems like it would last really well because is still so firm when heated. I got a piece of stainless barstock one time and decided from then on I'm more of a medium alloy/carbon steel guy. I wonder how much a machine shop would charge me for a stainless touchmark.

Acrylics, even fingernail polish are supposed to work, thanks guys

Sweet, didn't know etch resistant paint existed!

Hey guys. Looking at buying a set of cheap letter/number stamps from harbor freight. I see I have 2 options. Use them on annealed metal, or use while hot. Which do you think would have them last longer? Also and this isn't necessarily the right forum, but what kind of coating or wrap can I use to do lettering with etching? I just need to do some acid resistant wrap I can cut out what I need out and apply it. Any advice on that?

Five years as a hobby. I've used a big old Trenton, a vulcan, a forklift fork haha, and now this. I've read a lot about those blowers not producing enough pressure for anthracite. However I used to use a roll film dryer for my plow disk forge, and it did fine, so idk. My plumbing system is all 2". With a gate valve. So I can regulate flow. My firepot will be 12" square at the top. About 3.5" deep. I wanted it deeper so my work zone near the top of the fire is a reducing atmosphere hopefully. I just wanted a larger group of ideas for options as blowers. With that anthracite I'll need a continuous duty blower for sure.

Hey guys. Looking at my options for blowers. I'm building a new pretty good size coal forge. I was wondering more than centaurforge blowers and bouncy castle blowers. What other fans out there are radial blade and attainable at a decent price? Looking at Dayton blowers, they are 3x the price for the same performance as a bouncy castle blowers. Which are made to run continuously in the sun. Lastly, most bouncy castle blowers advise not to use extension cords. Is that for child safety, or is the added resistance an issue (I'm no electrician)? Thanks guys. Btw I've seen lots of curiosity about the TFS anvils, I just bought a 150#, and will have a review soon, probably to say the same as quenchcrack said. However more voices are more reassuring.