setlab

Sounds like an awful lot of time and work for such a small "anvil". Why not just weld a piece of square tubing to the side of your rr track to hold hardees?

No the bottom doesn't move any different than a normal post vice. I think the parallelism part is in reference to the pipe vice portion of that patent picture, one side looks hinged.

Good point about the weight I wasn't thinking concrete weighed that much. I'll have to calculate just how much I'll need for weight, 300lbs sounds heavy enough to me. I have a while to think about it though, I'm still setting up my garage shop after a pretty big move. I used to live close to a really nice scrap yard that I took for granted, where I am now there isn't a scrap yard in sight; so I'm kind of cringing to see what it will cost to buy new plate steel and larger structural steel pieces.

Thanks for the ideas. I'm playing around with the idea of getting a small steel drum and filling it up with concrete. Then make a small table top and base for it to mount the vice.

It actually has a small coil spring on the very bottom of the hinge part by the leg, for how small it is there is a decent amount of tension to it.

I picked this one up at an auction a while ago and thought it was unique. It has 6" jaws and a quick change mechanisim for the jaw depth. The only markings I can find are "00" partially hidden under the quick change mechanisim. Looks like it will be handy to use, I just need to come up with a heavy moveable stand for it yet.

I was out in the shop tuning some 3/4" side arm burners up today and out of the 4 I had one that seemed to be running twice as hot and had twice the flame length as the other burners. For starters I tuned 3 of my burners to look pretty much like the burner flame bellow (from Ron Reil's website) but the last burner produced a sold blue really long and hot flame on the same pressure. All 4 burners have .035 mig tips and a 1:12 taper flare that I forged out with a die. It's really weird because all 4 burners look nearly identical and nothing really sticks out. Has anyone else experienced a problem like this before?

Not a good idea, especially not a good idea to post an "can I do it" topic and then do it. Even if the track is no longer in service it's doubtful the company will let you just have some track, that's essentially money out of their pockets when they sell the rail as scrap. Whatever you do don't just assume the track is never used, it might go back into a seldom switched industry. If you wanted to grab some RR spikes or tie plates that are just laying between the gage or off to the side I doubt anyone would have much of any problems with that though

I'm glad I asked here then! Thanks for your insight. Hopefully I won't have to cut too much more from the roof of my forge to position the burners at the vertical wall.

I'm finally finishing up my forge and am to the point of welding in the brackets to hold the burners. I was about to weld my brackets in place at this angle but I figured I would ask you guys first, does this look like a good angle to hold the burners at? I've always read you want to angle your burners to avoid hot spots in the forge. The burner is mounted low just as a reference point in that picture and if anyone is interested that's a 6" steel rule to gauge the size.

Well my plans were to use soft fire brick for the floor, I didn't take into account the softer bricks breaking faster though. I'll have to figure up how much Kast-O-Lite I'll need. I do make longer 12"+ blades so I defiantly need a forge that has depth to it so I can heat treat longer stuff. I'll be using a moveable back wall and will be able to turn burners off individually so for just regular work I can have only one burner running and the back wall pushed close to the front creating a smaller chamber to heat. That's a really nice looking forge Jymm. I'd be interested to hear more about that ramable plastic refractory covering, I don't think I've ever read anything about that stuff before. I'll be sure to put some pictures of the build process together, I should be done before the end of the year.

OK, I can do a castable floor, doing the ceiling looks kind of tricky but maybe if I cast the ceiling first in a few different pours it would go alright. I see a lot of guys using firebrick to build forges out of though, I take it none of those forges will be as efficient at retaining heat as one made from Kast-0-Lite? A far as burner placement, I really only want to be able to get welding heat in the first 10"-12" or so which brings the volume to 582-698 cubic inches I'll put 2 burners in that area for sure, but will one burner for the last 12" or so be enough to evenly distribute temperature without any colder spots? Mostly I make knives, and lately all I have been doing is heat treating in my forge. But I do a little blacksmithing too, and sometimes when family pester me enough I'll get into ornamental work; but I always have a coal forge too so that 7" will work.

I'll have to check out the carb mettering jet sizes out there, that's a pretty good idea. The more I thought about it my original question is kind of a dumb one, I figured out what sizes I'll use.

I was thinking I would run a full length of C channel all the way down the bottom of my forge to support the 2.5" thick firebrick floor. Also do you guys see any problems with the inswool keeping to the shape of the roof wedged in like it is in my drawing? This will be my first gas forge so I've never worked with fiber blanket before. I'm going to make a moveable back wall to block off the back section I'm not going to be using. With my math a burner spaced about every 6" using the 350 cubic inch per 3/4" burner rule of thumb could bring the entire 24" length up to welding heat, not that I'll ever need that much heat. What do you guys think of the interior detentions? Should I make it taller inside?

Next week I'm going out to the hardware store to get what I need for a gas forge. Does it really matter what diameter pipe and or tubing I use for the idler assembly and the connection between the idler and burners? Also, I'm pretty set on using the reil style burner; I was wondering instead of drilling a small hole for propane to come out if I could drill and tap a wire welder tip in place of the small hole? I don't know with the welding tip if it will affect performance or not due to the length of the nozzle.

Nice looking forge, I really like the front brick holders. Not too long ago I got an old air compressor about that size I intend to make a gas forge out of so this has deffinatlygiven me some good ideas. Your back wall is interesting, keep us posted on how effecient it runs with just two burners.

I finally finished my hammer a while ago, still needs a paint job yet though. But I don't notice and real difference in sound compared to what I remember little giants putting out, of coure most of my hammer is built like a tank. I don't even want to think about how many welding rods I burnt threw.

Its about 3-4 lbs, average hammer size. I actually bought it at a sofa quad state a long time ago

I have this neat looking hammer thats been sitting around for awile, anyone have a idea on what it is for? The spiked end is a tapered octagon.

I ended up using the heavier I-beam I had. I figure latter on I will find a couple plates to weld on the sides to box it in. I'm definitely going to have to find a heavier and bigger base plate to mount everything on but for now its on a 1/2 plate. For now I just have to figure out how short to cut the main springs.

I'm building a jyh power hammer and I am about to start welding the frame up, I have a pretty heavy duty 1/2" thick I-beam that I'm planing to use for the main column part and I also have some 1/4" walled square tubing I could use too. How much difference does a column like square tubing filled with sand damper the sound compared to a more open column like a I-beam?