setlab

Try and find an old junky worn out surface grinder for scrap price and build a belt grinder on it. Probably way easier and versatile than a shop built one if you have something that can pick up a heavy surface grinder that is.

Doubt that hammer would need anything, horse stall mat under it and maybe some plastic to keep the oil off your floor.

Not sure if I missed something or not, but I bought the new kinyon hammer plans from a guy named Paul, I guess he is the one who has updated the plans over the years. His email is pbranch@nwcomm.net

Anyone ever run into a forge like this? Really cool concept, wish I could find more pictures and maybe a few dimensions.

I think my main concern would be how broken or worn out the dovetails on the anvil are. Might be a bad picture but they look squirrely. I'd check and see how much slop is in all the pivoting/bearing surfaces too.

Ehh if you could buy that hammer for some pretend Mexican monopoly money who cares about the motor.

Anyone familiar with how it would work if he were to buy this hammer and haul it to America on a trailer? Would the border patrol even care or would he be hit with import paperwork and fees?

Those all look like good designs to make your own. Not much to building a table besides how tall you want it, mine are all about 36" tall in freedom inches. Other than I like my welding tables to have holes or slats to clamp stuff down in the middle of the table.

Pro's- I'm a lazy and would much rather not have to deal with traditional power hammer die changes, plus it would be a cool project to build. And like arftist mentioned, production work... but ain't nobody got time for that with a day job. Con's- You spend a bunch of time building a die change system only to find out what you built is a garbage design.

Wondering that myself, Raymond Head has the same view as Clay, this design is really only safe for 65lbs. Also mentioned to me the heavier ram you get the more sluggish it will make the hammer. Increase the motor size? I imagine there is a limit point for the motor size and how much of its power can be transfered through a direct drive friction wheel. So there must be a point to which a bigger motor would be useless to create a larger hammer. Personally I've thought about just increasing the thickness of the material used and laying down more welds than are required to create a larger hammer. At the end of the day though, a 50lb hammer is probably good enough for anyone that wants to build this design. There's less trial and error and head aches if you were to just follow the plans than if you were to modify it too.

My 2 cents not really knowing anything... That Massey looks much better taken care of than that Russian hammer. But it definitely sounds like more of a hassle to put into use than that self contained.

I was trying to figure out if that was a spring or not. Really cool, I'm jealous of your welds and cnc plasma it took to make that!

I don't envy you trying to position that anvil during your weld up lol.

Nice hammer, that anvil looks like is was made exactly for it. I'll have to check your Instagram out. Definitely have enough air supply so that never going to be an issue. I suppose I'll cross that bridge when I come to it when deciding to build a larger tup weight or not.

So I recently made a score and found a 12.75"x38" 1,375 lb chunk of steel at the scrap yard and am dreaming up uses for it! This project is several years away from actually happening but I've always liked the MZ75 hammers and I see there is a kit to build one too. Has anyone ever build there own off that $1400 kit Ken sells? I need some homemade hammer porn to cement my decision on this route

It does look like something neat you would see in a restaurant interior or similar. I've learned my lesson too many time about buying things to resale, almost always I seem to put more effort into it than the return I get back and it sits around forever before someone wants to buy it.... Sometimes I still make that mistake though but I'm trying to stop the habit lol.

I wish there was pictures online I could find, usually vintage machinery has information on anything I can throw at it. I kind of like those movable ball weights in lue of a quil return spring. I kinda think I'm going to leave it be, if anyone is interested PM me it's in the Dayton Ohio area.

Well, that cone pulley does look like a decent bending jig. It just seems blasphemous to start ripping parts off of it. Bar stock is definitely not in short supply at this scrap yard, it's a metalworkers dream! That's cirtanly a mountain of pulleys you have there. I don't envy you for when you need to take the bottom one out to use.

I stopped by a scrap yard today and found a pretty unique old drill. I was very tempted to bring it home but I've come to the realization I have too much unused junk as it is lol. What do you guys think, is it worth going back and buying for .35 cents a pound?

I came here to see a giant piece of steel, all I see tiny piece of flat bar

Do yourself a favor and go cordless. And Dewalt > all others for reasons.

I've moved my hammers around pretty effortlessly with a folding harbor freight engine hoist in the past. That said I have a concrete shop floor that the wheels can roll on. Everyone who has this hobby should at least have some tools to move heavy things around if needed, might as well start now. I bought my little engine hoist for $100 off craigslist and it's served me well over the years. I didn't read all the comments here but it sounds like you might have around 1200lb to lift? That shouldn't be too big of a move, just keep the hammer an inch or less from the ground when moving it and make sure you have a good lifting point where the straps won't slide off. If you're wary about lifting it up to a trailer you can rent a drop deck trailer from places like sunbelt rentals for around $70 a day.

That weight might be right, I'd estimate mine weighs 600lbs +/-

I haven't had it for too long and it hasn't gotten used by me too much yet. With my oil change I just turned up the flow and stuck a nail under one of the valve levers to keep the hammer cycling for an hour or two and the oil drained out on its own. Still doesn't look like there is a drain plug under the paint, it would be a little bit more convenient to have one but it didn't take too long to change out the oil in the end.

An oil change was something I wanted to try out. I've read a few places people saying how much more responsive the hammer was, just wanted to experiment a little. Plus it was like 30 degrees last weekend!