Grant

Good Morning All Thanks to everyone for the help. With a few flat washers for spacers on the two severally worn shafts, she is alive, well, and surprising robust. Who da thunk that little four paddle blower would work so well? Anyway, thanks again. -grant

Good Morning All I believe I

Good morning all It sounds like you got a very good deal. Now that we have or gas saver valve does anybody have a picture and description of their station? I understand that some folks have rigged stations with a foot operated mechanism to operate the gas saver valve with the torch held in a stationary holder. I can't come to grips with a design that will incorporate the torch, pilot light, stationary holder and hand use of the torch. Thinking of using the torch by hand I would like to have the shut off hook relative high (shoulder level) with the pilot light in the same region. Pick up the torch, run the tip by the pilot light, and Bob’s your uncle. However, if one is using a stationary torch and presenting the material to the torch I would like the torch relatively low (waist level) in the stationary position, also it would seem that the pilot light in this case would be in the road. Anyhow explaining this is cumbersome enough, hopefully someone will sort me out. Tks grant

Thanks Arftist - but there are no bearings. The tapered shaft you see in the second photo rides in a tapered hole in the cast case. Before I pulled it apart I thought I would find a straight shaft and either knural the guide or machine a brass bushing for it. But I found tapers. :confused: -grant

Good Morning All I am in the process or rebuilding a small forge blower and need consultation. The blower seems complete, however there is a 1/16" of side play between the impeller and the case. This is enough play that the impeller shaft will clunk around within the case tapers when it is centered. When one moves the impeller shaft to either extreme the tolerance is fairly good on that side. This is by hand. I don't know how it acts when operated. I realize we are not rendezvousing in space, however I would like not to operate something that cracks and creeks more than I do. I do not want to limit anyone's experience or imagination, but I am hoping for a "cut off a small piece of your flannel shirt tail and rap it around the tapers, this will take up the slack and keep the oil in the housing" or "you are lucky most small blowers had larger tolerance out of the factory, clean it, lube it and run it," as apposed to "surface grind 40 thousands off the mating suffices and lap in new tapers". But, again I don't want to limit responses. Tks grant

Good morning Philip There are a couple of versions of a bowstring sundial in the September 2004 addition of the Blacksmith's Journal #164. I have not attempted to build it; however it is on "The List". Issues are downloadable, some clubs have copies to check out, and I have found them in public libraries, I usually needed to use inter library loan. Blacksmith's Journal grant

Victor, I will but in here. This thread is the most comprehensive about Frosty's "T" jet burner. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/small-gas-forges-1945/ With a final piece in http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/gas-forge-9680/ post #5 grant

ironcreation This is a link that is posted in a current thread "newbie needs help sortin all this" Charcoal Forge grant

I believe this restates Hollis's definition. Header; One who, or that which, heads nails, rivets, etc., esp. a machine for heading. Bolster; To support, hold up, or maintain with difficulty or unusual effort; -- often with up. A Header is a special case of bolster - supporting the heading operation. In this case it is the use of the support that defines the tool. Mark, both of your supports are bolsters as they are shown in use. grant

Frosty This is as far as my current understanding of these things will let me take this. Thank you for your thoughts. Obviously, update me/us if you have a break through. grant P.S. How about Shuttle Tiles?

Frosty, what is the fire contact area? I assumed in your case it was your forge floor (the part the burner was pointed toward) and that it is already protected with the split brick. The complete inner chamber? Also, are you suggesting that one could cast or have cast an insulating brick with one hard protective face? I see, now that you have pointed the way, an advantage to a forge that can be optimized for volume even with some compromise in efficiency - whether you can change it on the fly or not. These Zoeller forges look like subsections of your forge. firebrickforge One could add half bricks (bottom forge) to each inside wall and narrow the area, move the back wall to the end of the 9" bricks and/or add another complete section with an additional burner for length and open the back wall. This is the way I envision your VV Forge working only on the fly. -grant

Frosty, will you replace the full size insulation bricks in the sides and cover with full size 3000F hard brick or use some combination using split brick and the 2,300f insulating castable refractory. -grant

Frosty It is good you jumped in here and corrected me. Also, did you work out the cross for your "T" burners. I read in an earlier post where you thought you would try the cross for the four burners in your variable volume forge. I beleve it allowed you to drill the jet holding port without a lathe and allowed jet to be moved further out of the burner tube intake junction. However I see from your pictures that you are using the the T. tks grant

Good Morning Leroy I do not believe brick expansion will be a problem. Take a look at this site gasforge | iron | iron-to-live-with -grant

Smokeman, congratulations on your promotion to senior member. -grant

Smokeman, The line A-B in step 4 is the same line A-B you determined in step 1. Then with a compass draw an arc the length of A-B and divide it to equal twice the arc length B-C. This gives you your A-C line If you look at steps 2 and 3 (pictures of the cross section) as if the arc came vertically out of the page, and not like an upside down ice cream cone. You will see why arc length B-C is 1/2 of the arc length you want. -grant

Good Morning All What do you do with your Christmas Tins. I have a collection of many sizes, large ones that the three flavors of popcorn came in down to 4" x 4" tea containers. Considering most packaging today these are great; has anyone turned them into a flux capacitor? Will You share? -tks grant

Thanks John; that helps. -grant

Good Morning All Who or what is this Gieger? -tks grant

Thanks Paul - It is obviously a precision fit. I am interested to see if you designed any tweekibality into the hing systems, perhaps the earth does not move in Arizona. The details on the portal, it took several back and fourths to pick it out. Then how you integrated the mechanics, (hinges, portal, and latch) into the leafs, steams, branches, trunk, and plate. -tks grant

Good Morning All What is a cuttlers anvil and how is it used? It is very elegant. -grant

Very Cool Paul If it is not being to greedy, could we see the inside of the gate with the hinges and the gate/gates open. Also, if this is stepping across the line someone will certainly slap me! How many hours? -tks grant

Mark, thanks for the pictures. I'm trying not to neck the transition. The bracket is a typical L shaped shelf bracket with a 4 1/2" id circle in the corner out of 5/8 round. Two 1/2 round elements (the ones in question) tie the ends of the bracket to center circle. I want the 5/8 knobs to integrate the 1/2" pieces with the circle. Thanks for all the thought you have put into this. -grant

Good Morning All Thank you for your thoughtful responses. I realize that we are not rendezvousing in space, however I am trying to get a general sense of things and my current sense is that every time the material is worked some is lost. You can not get it all off your shoe. The way I get to a sphere is from a cube; divide the cube into upper and lower hemispheres then knock the quarters to eights, eights to sixtenths....... If one started with a 5/8 cube (.244 cubic inch) you would have twice the material needed for a 5/8 sphere (.128 cubic inch) in the arithmetic sense. I see the process as squaring the 1/2 round, upsetting and forging this square to a cube and forging the cube into a sphere. Should I figure a loss factor in these steps? Dablacksmitdh, adding additional material is a piratical idea. Mark, are you suggesting that more material needs to be added to the transition from bar to sphere. -grant

Good morning all I hope everyone had pleasant holidays and has recovered from same. I am designing a shelf bracket (using the term designing loosely) and need help with bar length. If one wanted to end up with a 1/2" round bar with 5/8" knobs on each end and a total length of 7", how long would the 1/2" bar be in the beginning and what would the cube measure. I expect there is some approximation that goes If you want a 5/8 ball one needs a ?" cube and to get a ?" cube from 1/2 round you need to upset ??" of 1/2 round bar. tks grant