zadvorney

Super cool. Did heating something that large pose any difficulties?

I've been practicing for a while making tongs and fullers. It has taught me how to move metal but I needed to try something more artistic. I decided to attempt some numbers from straight stock. The starting piece was 3/8"x1"x7". I marked it at 3/4" and 3 1/2" and slit from point to point. Bone head move as I didn't mark the opposite side until I was half way through. As a result the slits didn't line up. Lots of material in the slit. I flattened a chisel point and made an oblong punch to remove the excess material. A little file work fixed my issue. Next I fullered the remaining 1" into 1/2" by 3/8" . Note to self - don't leave the piece in the forge and think of your next move, almost scorched it. I worked the ring part on the horn and faded the extra material from either end into the circle. Formed the top of the six and taadaa, the number six. Next is a five. Fullering the right angle into the top of the five will be the challenge.

Man I enjoy looking at that piece of utilitarian art. Form. Function. Very nice. I have something to aspire to.

I like the idea of pre fitting the machine using a mock up. Excellent. I will do that.

I like the idea but that side of the shop faces my neighbors. I installed insulation in the walls and have dense shrubs growing between our property. If I open the wall up, the noise will put me out of commission. Kind of the reason I built the shop I the first place. You did point out something though. With the hammer positioned centered and 3' off the 9 o'clock wall I could work bigger pieces.

Nope. The 6,9, and 12 o'clock walls are covered in sheet steel, floor to ceiling . the 3 o'clock position is open to the garage.

I am interested in taking the next step in installing a hammer in my hobby shop. I have a 10'X16' space. I'm thinking of placing it in the corner where my anvils are now(lower left corner). I installed 220v power there already. Move the metal/tool storage out and put the anvils there and move the tools to the right(as looking at the picture, lower right corner) of the forge. I would appreciate your insight as I'd like to cut the floor out and make a deep concrete block under where the hammer will go. I REALLY only want to do this once.

Thank you Latticino. I built a hood for the outside and it covers the damper. The supplied air comes from an open man door on the front o the garage. I dunked a piece of hot steel into an oil bath and let smoke fill up the room. Turned on the fan and it all left in a hurry. I'd have to do the calculations but I'd bet I'm close to the 1.5 CFM/SF. I leave the fan on low when forging and bump it up when welding. I'll post a picture of it tomorrow.

I feel like when you sit for the first time at the adult table during Holiday dinner. I learned a bunch in this one thread. Thank you all for this awesome discourse of a build.

Lay your stone and place the building in the direction you figure. Then get a chair and sit in it for a long while. Look long and hard. Put yourself and the tools you are going to work with in the building and see if this or that position work. I used to work outside so when I moved inside I just replicated what was familiar to me. Put something on the walls for sparks. I wonder if you would be loosing economy of motion going back and forth through a door with hot metal every time you did work at the anvil? I like your cinder block lift kit. Got to get me one of those.... Keep us posted.

Very nice build. It looks nice and tight.

The more I look at it, I think you are right Stan. I picked up some intumescent caulk and foam to seal the through wall vent. I'll be up and running by next week. Thanks.

I am finishing up my garage shop and have been looking into proper ventilation. I have a squirrel cage blower from my old forced air house heater. Good CFM rating. Do I mount the motor on the outside and suck the air out or mount it on the inside and blow it out. My concern with blowing out is it could, in theory, blow hot air into the walls. If it's outside it would be on a platform mounted to the side of the building. The building is standard wood frame construction and vinyl sided.

I made mine too high. I am using it for small stock, not 4" bar stock!!! I got a little carried away. And a heavier base is needed for sure. I can say that I see the important's in welding on a sacrificial piece to the top fuller. I used a stick welder to put it together so It's not as pretty as others but it should do the trick. All 1/4" mild sheet. good luck.

Pretty as a peach.

I obtained a large 1/4" door to an old boiler. It sat around for a while with the intent on making it the base of a charcoal grill. Then I got the itch to make a smithin magician once I saw the thread here. Well, a few days of cutting and grinding and viola' here you have it. What a fun time it was. I learned a bunch of things about layout and cutting with a torch. My welding skills have improved to the point that I could piece this project together without the fear or ruining it so I'm ecstatic about that. I still suck but I got the job done. I have an old tombstone arc welder that could melt a hole faster that the Fukoshima reactor but she works great for my skill level. I do believe I over built the size. The top fuller is 7.5" and is 3/4" thick. My original thought was to be able to put two profiles on a set of dies but the energy transfer might get eaten up by the mass of the dies. "When in doubt, use a bigger hammer." I liked the concept of the 45* offset so there is more ways to place the work through. I used angle on the bottom of the main plate and a 1" rod to fit into the hardy hole. The next step is to cut a relief hole in the bottom bracket to assist in removal of the lower die and a spring system to help raise the upper die off the piece of work. Will I still need to clamp it to the anvil?

If life were easy, everybody would have one.

A link to a more complete description. Impressive is an understatement.http://files.asme.org/asmeorg/communities/history/landmarks/5488.pdf