plain ol Bill

Well I would use 7018 or 7014 myself if I was using a stick machine. E70s6 in a wire gun.

I have the 110# Sahinler and like it. I have used the Saymak in the same size also and truthfully I don't see enough difference between them to amout to much. If I were shopping for one I think the price would make my mind up.

Ed is right on about lighting. I have standard incandescent, halogen, and fluoresent all over my finishing area and each will show things the others don't. That said 99% of my work is damascus and I just go to a 600 grit finish on it before etching.

Well it was a nice excercise but you don't need to accordian unfold wire rope damascus. The wire rope pattern is already open to being etched as welded.

I mark my blades using an electrical etch. If this is not a method you are familiar with go to Electromark - electromarking or electro-etching equipment, supplies and accesories and prowl around some. There are other marking sites around but I get my supplies from these folks.

Ed that blade had been sitting in a drawer from 3 years ago. I stumbled across it and decided well since it was already made I'd use it and it turned out to be a good looking knife even if it wasn't damascus. I have ten more of the same style lying on the bench out there that are all damascus blades. I think the titanium was .050 when we started forging it.

Finished off this folder today using a new handle material we came up with. This one finished oiut really nice I thought.

I personally reccomend getting belts from Tru-Grit. No, I don't have any part of the company, just like their service and selection. I use the Norton Blaze hoggers, 3M 977's in 120 grit and Norton Norzons in all others on my KMG.

I have used the Gladiator and the Centurian. Both owned by friends that would not let me put them in my truck and bring back to my shop for some reason or other (grin). I consider them the best anvils I have ever used. They were both mounted on really nice bases.

Looking good Ed. I'm going to have to try some 52100 one of these days when I can break the damascus habit.

Glad to see a section devoted to making folders. I have been working on them lately and I think the learning curve is starting to flatten out some (finally!). I need to make some damascus in the next week or so and start using it as my primary blade steel on my folders. I have been using up some ATS34 that has been laying around here for years mostly on the last few anyway. Ed good to see you here too buddy - you will be a welcome addition my friend. Here is a pic of one using damascus.

Attending the school can literally take years off your learning curve for making forged blades.

Very, very nice work! The workmanship on them looks top notch.

Timascus is a titanium damascus. It is made from CP & 6AL4V titanium alloys. The color comes from oxides that occur in heating the materials. It is only available from one source and that is AKS

Just finished up a new folder and thought you might like a peek. This is an almost 0 degree flat grind and is really scary sharp.

I reccomend a 2 HP for your grinder. I also reccomend using some step pulleys so you can have different speeds. The finer the grit the slower you want to run. If possible a vari speed motor set up will have you falling in love w/ it very shortly. plain ol Bill Bill's Blades Home

Just finished up this folder. Blade is S30V, bolsters are ladder pattern Timascus, and the scales are tiger maple to tie in w/ the bolsters. It is a liner lock.

I have used dies that are covered w/ weld splatter to foge in that "rustic" look before and they worked very well.

The brass rod test is this: Finish the blade down to a thin edge. Lay a brass rod (I use a piece of 1/8" brazing rod) down on a hard surface. Lay the blade side down with the edge of the blade on the rod and press down hard to the point you can see the edge deform. Maintaining the pressure on the edge roll the length of the edge down the rod. The edge should deform and spring back into place as you move on. If the edge cracks or chips the blade needs a higher temp for tempering. If the edge doesn't come back into place then your heat during tempering is too high. You need good light close to the edge so you can see it deform and be sure to wear safety glasses. Using this test just helps ensure your tempering heat is spot on.

Tips for new makers starting out. Make blades and test to destruction. Keep a log of results. Each time you change steels, even batches of the same type steel, make a blade, heat treat it and test to destruction. Change up your heat treat till you get optimum results. Steel, & wood are the body of a knife but the heat treatment is the soul of one. Test each blade before it leaves your shop to make sure it can pass the brass rod test. Never let a blade leave your show without it being really, really sharp. Be very confident in the blades ability to perform to the maximum. Work hard on your fit and finish. Fit and finish will sell a knife faster than anything else I can think of. Use your knives - how does it fit in the hand? Is it comfortable to use for long periods? Does the edge stay keen, and if not why? Does it come w/ a sheath - a fixed blade without a sheath is useless. Use top grade materials. Learn from everyone - go to shows & pick up knives and really look them over, talk w/ the maker. Don't expect your knives to bring anywhere near the price that someone who has been making and selling for quite awhile gets. Make and give knives to friends, relatives, neighbors and ask them for feedback on how they perform and what could be changed to make them better or more comfortable to use.

If it is newly refurbished that is a decent price for a 50#.

I know a lot of makers with quite a few master smiths in the group. I can only think of about 5 full time makers that actually make a decent living at making blades and most of them have a factory alliance. Most full time makers have a wife that has a good job and helps suport a habit. Experience means a LOT in time taken to do specific tasks on knives and like Rich said time spent w/ other makers and going to hammer-ins and classes is invaluable to a knife making education. Every one has something to teach other makers. Even master smiths can learn from guys that are just starting out. Blades can be made with the simplest tools - fire, hammer, file sandpaper etc. Machinery just makes it faster, easier, better, and a lot more fun. I make a lot of knives, even manage to sell what I make. Do I make money at it - yes - but darn sure not enough that if I had to depend on it I could make it. Making knives is fun and when it is not fun anymore i won't make them. Likes and dislikes about knife making - Love the feel of a sharp blade sliding thru a piece of paper when putting the finala edge on. Hate spending hours hand sanding to get all the little scratches out. Love the pop when a knife seats into a well formed pocket in a sheath you just finished. Hate making a sheath when it doesn't turn out like the vision in my head thought it would. Bill's Blades Home

Have you visited any of the blade sites and done searches for the info you are looking for? I will put up some links for you if you have not found them yet. BladeForums.com - Powered by vBulletin The Knife Network Forums : Knife Discussions - Custom Knife Community Discussion Boards Custom Knives and Guns Forum - Powered by vBulletin Forum Index - Knifeforums.com - Intelligent Discussion for the Knife Enthusiast - Powered by FusionBB there is a world of information out there about knives and how to make them.

Daily or after the project is finished. I don't like dirty shops.

If you have not read this in the BLOG section you really need to go over and read this folks. I really was touched by this and want to thank the poster and author.