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Has anyone ever tried hexagonal boron nitride, or "white graphite"? I would think it might be best, can be found fairly cheap and a little should go a long way. The seed lube mentioned earlier would probably be very good too, usually either graphite, talc or a combination of the two. The talc has the added benefit of being a thermal insulator, won't burn and is actually softer than graphite. I'll probably keep using the talc/soapstone for now, just less mess. I might try the carpenters pencil too.

I just rub soapstone on the punch, works good and no mess. Won't flash off but wipes clean when done.

Ooohhh that thing is puuurrrttyy!!! Beautiful style, and nice work sir!

Yes Eric I did notice that, but only made brief mention of it. I think they are a good anvil, everyone I pm'ed and emailed about them only had high praise of the Smithy Specials, set up as you describe -the 2,3, and 400lbers. I think as you say for the weight/$ they are probably the best deal going. But I believe Thomas has it figgered out,-Yes I'll have one of each please! ;)

One thing I've noticed from using a "makeshift rounding hammer"- just a shaped 4lb sledge, is that there is more mass in the center diameter of the hammer. I think by using a proper fullered/lengthened rounding hammer you reduce the twisting torque compared to a rounded sledge of the same length, but keep the length the same. BTW I don't have a proper rounding hammer yet but I can see the potential advantage.

I really appreciate everyone's help. I think for me I will be well served by the Peddinghaus. It's the one I've really wanted (dreamed of!) for years, and I just kept coming back to it. It helped that I found a deal on one too. It is lacking a couple features that I may regret down the road but I have a few ideas for hardies that should suffice for those occasions. Again I want to thank everyone who took the time to respond and bring to light some qualities I hadn't thought of before. This is a great site with great folks. The information here is invaluable. Hopefully one day I will be able to give back or pay it forward also. Can't wait to put my hands on this thing! :D

I'm going to give these models a bit more thought before I pull the trigger. A few things I have come to realize for my use is that coming from a London pattern, these will all have more length of face than I have now, if you include the tail. I can't see needing anything longer for my use, though it wouldn't hurt but the Refflinghaus is just out of my price range so unless they have a super sale they will have to be eliminated for me. The Blu and Pedd are in my price range, though they are very different from each other. Narrow and long with shelf and skinny bick, vs 25% wider face with no shelf and a thicker bick. Cast vs forged we'll call a wash. I think for my use the wider face and thicker bick may be better. I can see advantages to each, but I can make a smaller hardie bick if I need a narrow one, but occasionally the larger radius horn will be useful. I'd see the Nimba having this usefulness too. The narrow face I also see being useful sometime, I think I'd like the extra width more often though. I always have my little Wilkinson if I need the narrow. The face horn area in the Pedd isn't quite a step but I was thinking might work for a occasional makeshift swedge of sorts. That may be a reach, but I'm used to an abrupt end to the face with the London. I'm gonna think on it a bit more.

Thanks guys, I thought it looked long for its weight. I can see how the narrow width could be useful for some jobs. Are there advantages to having more mass in the base as it appears to have?

I can't thank you all enough for all the help. It's got me to thinking about some of the different qualities and features mentioned, and what is most important to me. #1 I'd like it to have enough mass, which most mentioned here will have. I'm currently using a 200lb and it is fine for about 85% of what I do. But sometimes a little more would be nice when I'm using the big hammer. And I have some plans for bigger projects where it will make a big difference I think. #2 I want it to be really flat and smooth for some fine finishing jobs where I have to keep marks to a minimum. Again all these new anvils should have this covered, unless I got crazy with the 8lb sledge and just tore it up. I suppose the harder faced models will be a little more durable in this department though. #3 Features- I'd like an upsetting block but it's not entirely neccesary. I've never used a shelf, but I'm sure it would be nice to have some times. Some have mass in the body like the Nimba, some have more in the base like the Blu appears to. Even the differences in the horn-face transition between the south German style vs Pedd I can see pros to each. I'd probably be happy with any of these to tell the truth once I used it a bit. I've only used post and London pattern anvils so there are lots more to consider with these. #4 is country of origin. Things get a little blurry here, some companies are based here, but are produced overseas. Some are produced here, some are imported. And who knows who owns stock where. All are domestic retailers too. Honestly I just want a good anvil, but whichever way I go probably some coin is going overseas. I'll eliminate the tfs at this point. The larger smithy specials have the block and shelf with the hardie in the right place but the DI doesn't instill confidence, and they never even bothered to respond to my email anyway. The others I'm still considering, probably a slight Peddinghaus lean atm. Does anyone know what the width of the Blu's face is? It's not listed but looks narrow in the pics.

Wow lots of replies, I really appreciate the help here. I have read most everything I can find on all of the suggested anvils here, some have lots of info, others I couldn't find much. The TFS doesn't seem like quite the deal anymore. WayneCoe in your description of the hardie position being undercut, are you referring to the "blacksmith" models with the square heel, or the "smithy special" models? Btw, I really appreciate your feedback on the Tfs. The Peddinghaus seems to be about the most inexpensive option with mostly good reviews. And it's a name that's been around too, which hopefully still has some value since being bought out by big corporation. Maybe the other brands can be had for less than full msrp too I'm not sure? Keep in mind for me shipping price is a factor too unfortunately. The Bigblu is definitely an interesting option also, I just haven't found very much user feedback on it. I don't have a quote but it should be similar money as the Peddinghaus shipped to my door. The Fontainini is a beautiful design too but a bit pricier than the other two. Seems like mostly good reviews, only read a few complaints of being softer, maybe they just had a bad run who knows. Most seem to love them. Not sure what shipping would be all the way to Louisiana, I would think a bit more than the others but maybe not. And the Papa Rhino seems like an interesting design, kind of euro/London cross with the step. Haven't found a lot of feedback on it. I wish it were a little heavier though. I also read some speculation on the alloy being a ductile iron type too because of carbon content. I don't think they were positive though. It definitely seems like a good possibility given the price. I don't think I've ever heard 1 negative about the Refflinghaus they must be the best out there, but they are quite a bit pricier than the other options. I think if price were no object I'd get one, unfortunately it is. Maybe if it is head and shoulders better than the rest I should just save the extra thousand or so for the #58... A few years back I heard a lot about about Nimbas and they were at the top of my list. I've read a few folks said they seemed a little soft though. Not real high on them anymore. Any other info on these is greatly appreciated folks. Good thing I don't have to decide tonight hahahaa!

Think I'm leaning Peddinghaus. I've been reading a bit and it does seem that welding ductile iron would be much more complicated. It probably won't be a problem in my lifetime, but maybe my heirs will be glad they got a good name anvil, that is repairable. I'm not sure how the TFS is heat treated either, couldn't find much info on it. I emailed them a few weeks back just for general info but never got a reply. The Peddinghaus is induction heated which should give a consistent depth of hardened steel. The Peddinghaus rebound looks great on YouTube, definitely an improvement over what I'm using now. If anyone has any other considerations or experiences I'd love to hear them. B

Thanks Thomas that is a good point. I'm guessing that means welding if it needed it eventually? I have no idea if the DI is even weldable. I had pretty well set my mind on the Peddinghaus but just got to kicking around the idea of a 300 or 400lb beast! Not sure if the weight would even make that much difference for me though.. Until I had to move it lol

Hi folks. I'm planning on purchasing a new production anvil in the next few days. Among those I'm considering are the Peddinghaus 275lb and the TFS Smithy Specials in 300 or 400 lbs. these both seem to be in similar price range. I know the forged is considered superior to cast ductile iron, but I'm really wondering in function will the DI be as durable as forged? I've read everything I could on these including the materials being forged 1045 and rc52-54; and cast ductile iron rc52 respectively. Everyone I've spoken with that owns either of these models are very happy with them though. These anvils are the main ones I'm considering because of price, including shipping charges or the lack thereof, and I think they are both if not the best at least pretty good tools. If anyone has used both of these tools and can give me a direct comparison on rebound, durability and such it would be much appreciated. I plan on using this one for the long haul.

How's the rebound!? :-D

Should work well I like it!

I like the fullers and the hammer, nice job! I discovered rubbing soapstone on the drift seemed to help it go smoother and a little easier to remove. Might be worth a try any way.

Way to kill a thread! Sorry.. I don't really have much useful to add, I've only made a few pairs of tongs. I did a little different than either technique mentioned here- I start with round barstock and upset the jaw end to gain some girth before starting. Then draw just a little on the ends of the reins when done.

These are my favorite tongs by far. :D oh wait sorry...

Nice score looks like a fine anvil! I noticed the blue handled hammer too, if it is that nice soft rubbery handle like the one I got the other day, it can rub one heck of a blister. Ask me how I know! :)

Thank you, I will keep that in mind for next time. I didn't know fresh wood could be used but I will remember that for any others in the future. I didn't get much feedback and had almost talked myself out of using the walnut, but since it is laminated and not a real heavy hitter I said what the heck. Hopefully it'll hold up :/

I got a poor-boys 4lb rounding hammer today. :) I've been wanting to modify a 4lb sledge but most of them have heads that are too long and smaller diameter. I found this Stanley forged hammer that has a shorter, larger diameter head. Anyway I put it to the grinder and rounded one face and slightly squared the other face. I really like the feel and it is very lively on the anvil. Have yet to forge with it but I think I'm gonna like it.

Took your advice and went with the black walnut. The tree was cut probably 25 years ago from my great grandparents home place and I got what few boards were left a few years ago. Been saving them and since it's my first hammer it makes it kinda special to have a piece from them with it. Btw it balances great in my hand and rebounds better than any of my other hammers. The weight forward is very different but it feels like I will have great control working on blades and bevels. I know I burned it pretty bad in my hotspot/aka onebrick forge, oh well I'll call it character. Thinking about sealing the handle with natural tung, but I kinda like the feel of it how it is.

Any suggestions on handle material? Of the trees I mentioned I'm not sure I'm patient enough to wait on them curing, so that leaves me with straight grained black walnut. Would it be suitable, or should I just get a piece of hickory? Thanks

Some of those junky Vulcans are not bad, may be worth checking out if they're not expensive. Nice and quiet too! :)

Yes thank you Shane, I wasn't sure if it would turn out right but best I can tell with a straight edge it will be the desired 82-85 degrees. Having never drifted a hammer before I was unsure if my staggered cuts would work but I got the results I was after. Now to figure out what to use for the handle. I have some black walnut but I'd have to laminate 2 pieces to get the thickness I want. I also have some persimmon, black locust, and bois darc trees on the place. Hmm...