dntfxr

Wow that is a monster old anvil! If I were repairing it I think I'd run a steady stream of water just behind the repair area and build it up with 7018 or a 90xx. Hardalloy32 would function great but I believe the repair would stand out with the chrome-nickel alloy. I'd be worried about drawing the temper of the face and whatever little the horn has too by heating and forging it. Take pics whatever you do with it for sure! :)

Got my "stump" put together for my base. I had some old 2x12 scraps leftover from our house construction so I put them to good use. I glued and screwed them then put a band around the top with a bolt for a tensioner and tightened it up. Not sure if I'll band the bottom too or just leave it as is. Tomorrow evening I'll forge some staples to secure the anvil down. I have some leftover rebar that should be perfect for that.

About 6 passes, I actually lost count. I've been playin with it in the evenings for about the last week. No preheat or anything on the mild steel. With other alloys it may be necessary though. I think the peening def made a difference too. The original mild steel work hardened a decent amount, even began mushrooming a little on top. Just from the rebound now vs before it's much better. I bought 10# of hardfacing for 44$, I figure I used about 3.5# so it cost around 15$ plus electricity and half a grinding wheel. I don't think it will be necessary but if I find I need more hardness there is a Hardalloy58 which allows for 2 passes and results in 58rc.

I just finished hardfacing and dressing my old mild steel post anvil. It definitely rebounds much better now. It started out as a piece of 2x6x28" bar that I set in high strength concrete in an old kitchen trash can. All of my knives have been forged on this anvil to date. My old Wilkinson anvil has had general blacksmithin duty. Since I finally moved to the country I can make all the racket I want now! While diggin through my old stuff I found my little one brick forge and lit it just to make sure she still worked. Maybe tomorrow I'll find time to hammer a bit :) Anyway here's a few pics of the post, some peening pics and final dressed face. A couple funny blue handled hammers I picked up for 12$ a piece too. Btw I used hardalloy32 hardfacing rod. With a few passes it finishes rc32, should continue to work harden a bit too. Sorry for the inverted pics

Thanks for the suggestions VaughnT, that sounds like a plan. Some additional info on my anvil, under the tail it has the number 42, I'm assuming 1942 the year it was built? Also the little bit of dressing I did on the face threw a high carbon spark. Any know any info on the different years of production?

Thanks for the replies and info! Much appreciated. Sorry I meant to include in the original post that the vise was a separate purchase, it was 80$, the anvil and tongs were 375$. I negotiated him down from 450, and he threw in the tongs to sweeten it. ;-) So if I credit 40$ for the tongs I only paid 1.68$ a lb for my new anvil! Whoop!! I took the vise apart when I got home and cleaned and greased it and it works perfect, seems very stout. I'm glad to hear the vote of confidence on the Vulcan too, I guess I'd read a bad review from someone at some point but mine bounces a hammer with authority. When I saw how flat and nice the edges were I knew it hadn't been abused much. And it's quiet too. Think I'll take the advise on the monster tongs too. The way they are set now they were used for 1" stock! I'll adjust them down and shorten them. They'll be heavy duty for sure, the pin is around 1/2" thick. I can't wait to set my new forge up and get to 'smithin!! :-)

Hmm let me try again

I ran into an antique dealer who had a line on an anvil. I told him I was interested and would like to see it. Turns out it is a 200# Vulcan in great shape. I know it's not top of the line brand but it was in too good of shape not to get it and he made me a good deal, I think anyway. I'll try to post a pic from my phone if it will work. Anyway he threw in a pair of big tongs(40") for 375 total. I figure that comes to around 1.70ish a pound for the anvil. Anyway I got it home and cleaned it up and it has really good rebound, I was surprised. Guess I got lucky! Well except for behind the pritchel hole, she's pretty dead there. There are 2 chips and 2 dings but for the most part very flat and straight! And the post vice is nice and heavy, 5" and marked with a C in a triangle. Champion, maybe?

Welcome to the site! I'm originally from Melville, but I'm way up north in Monroe now. :)

Thanks for the kind words! :)It is an HC and I water quenched also. I think it will make a decent kitchen slicer when I'm done. Thanks for the link, there's some good info there on quench and temper.

I finaly made use of 1 rr spike. I know its not really good blade steel but I thoroughly enjoyed making it! The edge is still intact after chopping the wood anyway.:)

Don't feel bad, you had me convinced too!:p

Shop vac, but I think its overkill. I may try a hairdryer.

No I didn't put it on a scale but I thought it felt a little light for 95 lbs. Maybe I used the wrong calculation on the weight. I used (28 x 3) + 11 = 95 ?? I haven't had the chance to forge on it yet but lookin forward to it!:)

I just inherited this 95# anvil from my wife's Grandfather. He's 98 yrs old and used it quite a bit as a young man and he inherited it from his father. Its got a few chips on the corners, but the face has only a few thousanths of a sway. There is also some minor pitting behind the hardy hole. It looks to only have one seam/forgeweld where the body meets the face and it rebounds and rings true:). Its pretty cool to have a tool from a freind whom I have so much respect for. I've only found a little info on Wilkinsons anvils and it seems there are several different types that were made. These pics aren't the best but can anyone tell me more about it? The fourth pic has is of the front bottom edge and it shows an emblem that looks similar to (4) but turned 90 to the left.? Also, I kind of have mixed feelings about it but would you do anything to try to true up the face or remove the pitting? (I can live with the chipped corners) Thanks! dntfxr

LOL! Let me know what you find out!

That's good info,thanks! That forge welded piece looks very cool, I've never seen anything like it. What did you make out of it?

Ok so the S shaped symbol I guess represents the manufacturer. I also did a spark test and the pin seems to spark the same as the spikes. The small section of track sparked a good bit more than both. The plate must be a different alloy or very little carbon as it had almost no splitting sparks. Anyway thanks for the help and suggestions, I'll put them to good use!

Yeah, it has one end that looks to be twisted off verses sheared, so maybe its some kind of shaft.??

Thanks! I knew they had more carbon than the old spikes, but was wondering how they compare to mild.I'll make another heavy duty pair with the spikes. Anyone know the specs on the tie plate?

Yeah, I just made my first tongs, but my wife would be more impressed with jewelry!She might even go buy me that big anvil I want. Now if I could just figure how to forge a gemstone.... ;)

Just did these Friday. They still need a lil' work.:)

I notice a slight dip in the 20's. 'Course when I was 20 somethin' I had other priorities too! ;)

Thats cool! Now I know what to do to get new tools!:D

Thanks! I'm just east on I-20, about 150 miles to Monroe.