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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by Crunch

  1. I need to make a nut to fit an odd sized Acme screw (if it wasn't an odd size, I'd simply buy a nut). What I was planning to do was: 1. chill the Acme-threaded screw 2. coat its threads with nickel-based high-temperature anti-seize 3. heat a doughnut-shaped piece of steel to forging temperature 4. slide it onto the Acme screw, and 5. beat on it on my anvil to shape threads on the interior of the donut-shaped piece of steel. (The nut doesn't really need to be square or hex-shaped for my purposes, and the nut will not need to be strong enough to take much of a load when in service;
  2. I wouldn't have the guts to swing a hammer at it...and that's a good thing!
  3. Is it still carnauba? At one point my Dad was researching waxes for use in a factory's material handling equipment, and he said that carnauba was the hardest wax out there...
  4. What happens if you have an MRI with microscopic pieces of metal in your eyes?
  5. I forget which of my guns it is, but at least one of them says it's made from chrome molybdenum steel.
  6. While I agree on the DC side, I think you're going to have a long row to hoe if you want to TIG weld on AC without a HF unit.
  7. Holy cow...a POUND of black powder! I always wanted to see how deep they sunk when they landed and that video didn't disappoint.
  8. Thank you for the replies. What's neat about them (and about this site and about blacksmithing in general) is that in a way, they constitute a history lesson. It seems the more you learn about blacksmithing, the more you learn about steel, and the more you learn about history, and so on. It's like they all go hand-in-hand. Anyway, not to ramble. Thanks again.
  9. Somewhere I seem to recall reading that anvil horns are not hardened. Is that true? If so, do we need to be extra careful about working metal on the horn? I sometimes use the horn for fulllering/drawing out metal, and as a total amateur 'smith, my hammer swings are not the most accurate in the world. If the horn of my SWEET Peter Wright anvil is not hardened, should I restrict my fullering to the face of the anvil, where it's hardened tool steel, in case I accidentally "miss" with the hammer ... at least until I'm a little more experienced? This anvil is in really nice shape, and I'd hat
  10. I bet that like me, you just LOVE it when pet owners "rehome" their pets. Does it somehow make people feel better about themselves to say "I rehomed my dog" rather than "I gave away my dog"?
  11. LOL twice! Thank you David for the great "how to" ... that doesn't sound bad at all. Hammers are en route on the Brown Truck...will report back. Thanks again, everyone. This site is great.
  12. Thank you all for all the good replies. Maybe you're right...maybe I'm overcomplicating things. Just seems like I always ending up grinding/sanding too much off. ("You can cut more OFF, but you can't cut morON!" ... "I cut it three times and it's STILL too short!") Macbruce, thanks for the tip on China Freight case hardened hammers. Does anyone know whether it will be obvious to me when grinding if I cut through the case hardened layer and get into the mild steel (if it is in fact case hardened)? Thomas, yes, I briefly considered forging the hammer to shape and heat treating, etc., but m
  13. I've been intrigued by Brian Brazeal's use of his rounding hammers, and although I'm a rank amateur metal banger, I've got it in my head that I want to make a hammer with a similar "squashed ball" die on one side of the hammer head and a fairly square, flat surface on the other side. Since I'm such a noobie, I was planning to get a 3# drilling hammer or engineer's hammer from Harbor Freight, and then grind it myself. As a woodworker, I'm a big fan of jigs for doing tricky machining jobs right the first time, so I'm trying to figure out a simple jig to make grinding the "squashed ball" side
  14. Seems to this rank newbie that being comfortable with the anvil pointing in either direction is akin to being comfortable with the TIG torch in either hand: A necessary skill. Am I wrong? Great video in the OP, by the way.
  15. Great video Brian, thank you for posting. I'm a rank newbie, and your videos are hugely helpful to me. That type of a hammer is that, that you use? I guess it has two different faces, one more for fullering and one more flat? Edit: Never mind, Brian no need to explain again. I just found your video "Why Use a Rounding Hammer" on youtube.
  16. LOL! Good one! I predict this will not end well for BigRed.
  17. Thank you Bigfootnampa, that's good to know about the "greasy stick" temperature gauging trick. Rich, I had not looked at the stickies yet, but thanks for pointing me to it. I read the first linked thread; there's some good info there and I'll read the other two threads, too.
  18. Hello, all, The coil spring in the 300A work clamp for my welder recently broke, and since I have some 5/32" spring steel that's almost the exact same diameter as the wire used in the original spring, I figured I'd give it a try. (I just knew the springs from that old bed boxspring would be useful for SOMEthing!) Anyway, I'm a complete novice at blacksmithing, and just wanted to check with you folks for any tips on making this spring. In general, I plan to: 1. Heat the spring material to cherry red to shape it 2. Quench in oil 3. Temper to about 700°F The main questions I have are:
  19. Will A36 harden? I thought A36 was mild steel that wouldn't harden...
  20. Tom, Thanks for posting your video. Making hinges interests me, as I would like to learn to make hardware for furniture. I'm a complete novice so forgive me if this is a super basic question, but can you tell me what you're doing right around 7:00 to 7:15 into the video? It looks like you're trying to thin the metal right at the edges of the hinge...is that correct? Thanks, Jeff
  21. David, Thanks again, and thanks for the offer...I have friends in York, PA and maybe I can time a visit to coincide with one of your BGCM events. I should probably get involved with the Tidewater VA Blacksmiths Guild, but that is kind of out of the way from where we live, too.
  22. Thank you, David. That makes sense. Sorry for the dummy question; I appreciate you taking the trouble to post those links.
  23. David and/or Other Forum Participants: What do you mean by this? I am a rank newbie at blacksmithing, so I don't know. Would it be preferable to work the metal closer to the horn or heel of the anvil, and if so, why? To this complete novice, it seems like the center of the anvil would have the most mass and thus the most inertia / resistance, allowing the smith to move more metal faster with less effort there -- but again, I'm completely new at this. Thank you.
  24. I have a 200 CFM electric blower (squirrel cage fan) that I use with a Harbor Freight foot-operated on-off switch. That part seems to work well. I found that my blower blows too hard, at least with a new fire (it'll blow coal out of the firepot) so I rigged a pivoting "lollipop" of sheet metal that I can adjust to partially cover the air intake of the fan, to regulate the amount of air blowing.
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