danielpiotte

I have both myself and each has it's advantages and drawbacks. The biggest factors I have found in the equation are space and heat. Will a propane forge allow you the space to complete the project. For example, if your are doing a scroll, is the forge big enough to fit the scroll in after the first bend? Can you go back a tweak something if you need to. Can you put a bend in the middle of a bar if you have to and then put it back in to do the next bend? Even if you are "planning" on only doing small stuff you will need more space than you think even for that. Why limit yourself right out of the gate? Next up is heat. Can you build a small fire in a propane forge? Can you reduce the air flow and thus the fuel consumtion while you are forging between heats? Can you put a localized heat on your piece if you need to? You will get tired of heating something up only to pour water on it to cool a section of it down. Trust me on this. As to the old arguement about propane not burning up your work....If you are burning your work you should learn from the experience to pay closer attention to the fire. The advantages of propane are a reducing atmosphere for forge welding and the convienence of buying fuel at the local store. I disagree that homemade propane forges don't get to a welding heat. If you research well and use the right set up there is no reason you can't make a forge that will get to a welding heat. Just my two cents worth Daniel

I would suggest joining The New England Blacksmiths. They have a web page where you can get info on their spring meet. They also maintain an education center in Brentwood NH. I believe one of the officers operates Ball and Chain Forge up your way. You should look him up. ( remember to be polite ) You can get blacksmith's coal from Aubonschuan Hardware stores if they go that far north. It isn't the best but it can be convienent and it comes in 50lbs bags instead of by the on. I'm in northwest NH Godd Luck and be persistent Daniel

I scored 25 feet of 12 inch ducting today for free! Thanks for the replies and advice guys. Daniel

I was standing in a historical sight watching the demonstraor when a blonde lady asked " Is that a real fire?". I kid thee not! The demonstrator said he gets that one a lot. Daniel

Hello All, I have been searching for a less expensive chimney solution and want your opinions. The cheapest I have found is 300+ dollars. First the requirements. I want no less than twelve inches in diameter and need 20 ft or so to complete the job. The pipe is running horizontally from the back of the forge, through a stick framed wall, and up the side of the shop. I am planning to pour a small slab to mount the chimney to and plan on running mounting straps back to the wall. The Idea. It came to me in the shower this morning that if you can build a wood stove out of 55 gallon barrels you should be able to build a chimney. I have a local source for barrels (some stainless). If I remove both ends and stitch weld them together, then seal the seams with furnace cement will it work for the main stack? I would then use a piece of 12in pipe for the horizontal and fab a cap from the lids. I will also be able to fab an ash door in the bottom. This would give me a large diameter stack that is stainless and easily replaceable if it rots out. The Question. Will it work? If there are interior rings where the cans join will they interfere with the draft? Will the furnace cement hold during any movement of the stack due to wind and weather? How will the weather affect it? Thoughts and comment needed! Thanks Daniel

Where are you located? If you add this ( in a general sense ie. state and section) you will probably find some one on the forum near you. Good Luck Daniel

I was told that the designation of "A-36" steel is based solely on the steels performance and engineering characteristics( ie. tensile strength,load bearing limit,etc.) The steel industry came up with this so they would not have to meet specific alloy percentages in stuctural steels. I know as a toolmaker if I want 1018 now I have to pay more for it because it must meet the alloy criteria. There are very large disscrepencies between batches and manufacturers of "A-36" steel. Just my two cents. Daniel

Massachusetts also as of this year.

Nice work! I like the useful blade shape and the handle looks comfortable.

If the coil spring was 5160, it is notoriusly hard to weld to itself. This aside I agree that you overheated it. Daniel

I used Lukas gear oil. Works great. Daniel

My first impression is that it is some kind of rope twister. You could spin 8 strands around a core strand. ??????? Daniel

Owen, I seem to recall an article on South American smiths setting up a Pnumatic jackhammer in a frame for this purpose. They called it a Rattler. Daniel

When I built mine I used a disc brake rotor in the center. This gave me a 2 in opening into which I placed a piece of exhaust pipe that I flared over the horn of my anvil. This arrangement also covers the lug bolt holes in the brake drum. A piece of 1/4" plate with a bunch of holes drilled in it completed the package. Daniel

To All, If you have to have an MRI make sure to have a set of Orbital x-rays to check your eyes for metal slivers. Please do not assume that the hospital personel understand that this is necessary. The first time I had an MRI I had to go up the chain of command three steps before I found someone who knew what I was talking about. This procedure is recommended for anyone who works with metal whether machinist or smith( I'm both). Daniel Mods, I placed this post in this forum in hopes of more people seeing it here than in the safety forum. Just because you dont read the other sections, others do. If everything was posted in one section, then there would be major problems locating any posts, that is why we created new sub sections as needed, to assist in locating information, Please have a look around the site and I am sure you will see there is a lot of activity all over the site.