Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Crunch

  1. Yep, in welding, you can create cracks in the center of the material, where neither end of the crack reaches an external surface (yet)...
  2. I barely qualify as an amateur hobbyist, but isn't this like arguing over how many angels can dance on the head of a pin?
  3. They're nice looking tools, thanks for posting. Question: Do hold-down dogs like the one you made need to be quenched and tempered to make them "springy"?
  4. Reminds me of Tangerine Dream or maybe Fripp and Eno's "Heavenly Music Corporation"
  5. Sorry if this has already been posted, it was new to me: Pretty neat video of a BIG forging operation, looks like in England.
  6. I need to rig up a jackshaft and a few step pulleys with a higher-horse motor on my wood lathe. Also one of those foot-operated, spring-loaded bowling ball-in-a-spring loaded clamp gizmos, with the ball-and-clamp articulated arms to hold welding projects in position. Like to build a belt grinder one of these days, too. And a Babington waste oil burner. And a home-brew tree bandsaw. As it is, I'll probably be lucky if I get around to making some anvil hold-downs and jigs. I have too many projects! :P
  7. Great video and really nice project. Thank you for posting it. You make it look easy!
  8. Neat video, thanks for posting. Question: Would that have been iron at the end of that process, or would it be more accurate to call it "steel"? Would enough carbon from the charcoal have dissolved in the iron to make it steel? My uninformed hunch was always that "iron" would be unworkable with a hammer and anvil, yet it seemed to work fine. Would the material created in the video possibly be what would be called "wrought iron"? I'm curious what the properties of the metal used to make the hoe would be.
  9. Is 1018 typically much more expensive at the steel service centers than A36? I never would have known to specify 1018 if I hadn't read this.
  10. You might want to post a video on YouTube. Given that the item was obviously defective, and that THEY are wrong for not refunding your money, regardless of whether or not it's painted – it's not as if they could resell a BROKEN anvil, after all, whether it's a POS or not, and it should never have broken in the first place! – I'd say you have a perfectly legitimate claim. You've been screwed. There's a guy I recently saw on YouTube who apparently bought a real lemon of a Porsche ... people are cross-posting this video EVERYWHERE to try to spread the word and help the guy out, and I wou
  11. Hey, all, I want to make an oyster culling hammer (see pic link below) out of a railroad spike. '> I plan to use the headed end of the railroad spike for the round "hammer head" of the culling hammer, and the pointed end of the spike for the flat 3/4" wide and edged "lever" end of the hammer. My question is, when I go to "round off" and draw down the head of the railroad spike, how do I prevent getting cold shuts in it, where the sharp edges of the head of the spike get pounded inward? Would it help to prevent cold shuts if, before forging, I ta
  12. I just want to make short wood dowels, maybe 2" long max, for pegging woodworking joints. Anyone besides Stefflus have experience making short dowels with one of these for that? Thanks again, everyone.
  13. Thanks for all the replies. Doc, if I got an old file and annealed/normalized it, I assume I could drill it OK? Then after grinding the teeth off and drilling the holes, I could just harden and temper it by heating, quenching in water and watching the colors to temper to the right hardness...? I've never really messed with hardening/tempering so this stuff is fairly new to me (I do have several good books on it, though). I had the impression air-hardening was no big deal, but Steve Sells, it sounds like you're saying it ain't easy...I just thought I could heat it to critical and
  14. Hello, all, I need a dowel plate (for making dowels by driving wood through holes bored in the plate) and saw one made from A2 tool steel here for $55: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/lie-nielsendowelplate.aspx but I don't want to pay $55 for it so I was thinking of trying to make one myself. I have a drill press and drill bits (but no milling machine or anything like that) and I see I can get a piece of A2 for maybe $15 on ebay, but my questions are: 1. How hard would this stuff be to drill holes in it up to 5/8" diameter if the steel was not yet hardened? Could a decent drill pr
  15. I like the idea. Since E = MV² (energy = mass x velocity squared) if you double the velocity you get 4X (2²) as much energy, and if you triple the velocity, you get 9X (3²) as much energy where the rubber meets the road. Not only does the whippy handle serve as a shock absorber (like a spring); it also accelerates the axe head at the end of the swing, resulting in more energy going into the work. The only major downsides I see are that you lose some steering/control, especially in the case of glancing blows, which could be dangerous; and the fact that the handle is likely to fatigu
  16. Nice score. I remember as a kid (1960s and 1970s) finding wrought iron spikes etc. (fasteners for old ships?) when digging for sandworms and bloodworms in the sand on the beach in Atlantic Highlands, NJ (just south of NYC). I imagine if you looked in the right place, you could still find it up there. I remember you could bend it like soft wire and it would fracture like wood or laminated fiberglass, exposing fresh metal. I wonder whether wrought iron exposed to saltwater for years like that would be usable for blacksmithing...anybody know?
  17. Thanks guys. Makes sense. I guess I was having a duh moment.
  18. I bought an old steel cowbell in a junk shop that I planned to rig with a stainless steel cable and hinge and spring arrangement to use as a doorbell, where you would yank on the cable outside and the bell would pivot on a shaft to make it ring inside. I TIG welded a piece of mild steel to the part of the bell where the cow's collar would go through, and immediately afterward, I noticed that the bell didn't ring with a sustained sound like it did before. So I was wondering: Are bells typically made of high- or medium-carbon steel and hardened to make them ring? And if so, does anyo
  19. Well, darn. Now I get it. I wonder whether crushing it in a vise over the Acme rod would give the same results...sounds like it would. That's a disappointment. Maybe, instead of a "doughnut" of hot steel, I'll try using a "C" shaped piece of hot steel that's not quite long enough to wind all the way around the threaded rod...maybe by beating on it, that'll lengthen it enough to span the full circumference, and then I could weld the two ends together. There's gotta be a way... Thank you all, again, for your replies.
  20. Thank you for your reply... Maybe I wasn't clear. The Acme screw is actually more like a machine screw than a wood screw in the sense that there is no tapered end on it. It is square on the end. There is no point or cone at the tip like there is on the tip of the anvil's horn. So I wouldn't be beating the "doughnut of steel" to make it larger...I would be beating it down to make it smaller, after it already had the Acme-threaded rod going all the way through it. In other words, I would in effect be swaging (with a hammer rather than a press) the "doughnut of hot steel" down around
  21. I bet that smarts when it (invariably, inevitably) topples over and smashes your big toe into hamburger meat!
  • Create New...