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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by Crunch

  1. Alternately, if you wanted to TIG it, I bet ER310 would work well. Lincoln recommends it for high-carbon steels because it is very ductile and tough. It is about 25% Cr and 20% Ni and was formerly commonly known as "25-20 stainless." Excerpt from Lincoln's "Metals and How to Weld Them": "With some of the highest carbon steels (over 1.0%), the minimum safe penetration to produce a sound weld may raise the carbon content of the deposited metal to a point too high to be sufficiently ductile to withstand contraction stresses. Under these conditions a ductile and tough weld may be obtained by w
  2. Holy mackerel, thank you all for the very good, detailed replies. I should be paying tuition for all I take from here! I'm glad to know that the possibility of fire damage probably isn't that great.
  3. In looking at used anvils on ebay and CL, and reading a lot of descriptions like "pulled out of an old barn," it occurred to me that it's probably not that unusual to find anvils for sale on CL and ebay that have been through fires and thus lost the hardness and temper in the faceplate. And, I realized, if you happen to have such an anvil (and not many scruples), it would probably be wise to try to sell it on CL or ebay, where buyers are in effect "buying a pig in a poke." So my questions to the more experienced folks here are: 1. Is it common to find anvils for sale that have been in fi
  4. Congrats Clinton, that thing looks like a beast...enjoy!
  5. Thanks, fellas. I ended up cutting them out...used one 69¢ cutoff wheel and yielded maybe 10-15# of steel...the boxspring was over 30 years old so maybe the steel was something exotic! :P
  6. OK, being the scavenger and TIG welding hobbyist that I am, when we trashed our mattress and boxspring, I tore out and saved the steel spreaders inside the boxspring that the springs clip to. I figure that the steel spreaders will be good for something somewhere down the line, even if it's only practicing my TIG welding. Now, what's left inside the boxspring are all the steel springs that used to clip to the spreader bars. They're made from wire about 5/32" thick, and if they were straightened out, I suppose they would be maybe 15" long and there are about 50 of them. I understand sprin
  7. Well, I went and bought the vise. The screw looked good; I think it has an Acme thread and looks to be in very good shape. The "screwbox" looks to be essentially a round threaded pipe. I couldn't see inside it very well, but I can't see any cracks on the sides of it. This morning, I pulled the screw all the way out of the screwbox and gave it a good coating of Molykote (molybdenum disulfide paste). I can't wait to use it! Thanks again for for all of your advice.
  8. Thank you fellas. Will let you know if I get it.
  9. Does $100 look like a decent price for this vise to you? I'm not sure what they typically sell for. It's probably 40 miles away... Seller says it has 5" jaw and is 40" long and in good condition. Thanks in advance for any opinions...
  10. I believe that Kerry Stagmer (a member here) uses those clips to make knives or swords. See:
  11. Thank you all for all the really good replies. Lots of good information here to think about.
  12. Thank you gentlemen. I did not know about that business with the force cone and the center swelling out. Thanks bigfootnampa and 781...I need to read up more on that. Does anyone know what size stock a 25# LG is typically good for?
  13. Are there any rules of thumb for what various power hammer sizes are good for? I would like to eventually get into tool making, knifes, chisels, swords, etc., especially with homemade "Damascus" steels that I would weld up and draw out and fold over ... Would a 25# LG be suitable for this sort of work on a daily basis, or would most people want something bigger? I know this is sort of a silly question (I imagine a 25# LG would be fine but a 100# hammer would be a lot faster), but I'm just trying to get a feel... Thanks in advance for any insights. C
  14. Thanks again, everyone. Lots of good information to think about. Macbruce, no hammer yet, but I'd like to get something in the 50# to 100# range.
  15. Thanks for the replies, everyone. Unfortunately, driving piles down to bedrock is out of the question. Some kind of object hit this area 35 million years ago and made a huge crater. Everything is mixed up and jumbled pretty deep, and Lord only knows how far down you need to go to hit bedrock. I guess making nice with the neighbors is the way to go...
  16. Does anyone have experience running a power hammer on a slab lying on a wet sand/loam soil? I'm considering a shop with the following characteristics: 10 feet above sea level water table is ~ 1 foot below grade soil is a sandy loam (sand, clay and organics on E side of the Chesapeake). It's a real nice loam up on top but gets much denser with clay mixed with sand about 18" below the surface. The soil transmits vibration pretty well. If a real heavy truck goes by, it can shake the house more than 100' from the road. Anyone have any insight on whether a power hammer would annoy neighbor
  17. That's interesting. In my research, I also see that drop hammers are limited in their speed by the 10m/s2 acceleration of gravity, which hadn't occurred to me right off the bat. Thanks for the reply, Phil.
  18. Hello, all, I would like to either make or buy some sort of power hammer. My plan has always been to fab up some sort of junkyard hammer, probably the "spare tire" type, but lately I've been considering buying a unit if the price was right. In the Tailgate section here, I saw the 200# drop hammer that kerrystagmer has for sale for $1500 at http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/22165-200-lb-forging-drop-hammer-needs-a-home/ (there are also some interesting videos posted there of the hammer in use) and that got me to thinking. Can anyone clue me in on what the advantages and disadvantages
  19. 6011 as others have said. 6011 cuts/digs/penetrates a lot more than 6013 so you'll need to pay more attention to heat control and work fast. don't worry about moisture with 6011 (i mean, other than keeping it out of the rain). you only really need to worry about that with low-hydrogen rods like 7018. personally, i use 6010/6011 for about 90%+ of my welding jobs...it's great stuff. i HATE 6013!
  20. I don't know about blacksmithing coal in particular, but in general, other countries are gobbling up U.S. coal faster than we can mine it. Maybe the "blacksmithing coal" is being diverted to feed Chinese furnaces? Coal ships waiting to be loaded create a traffic jam on Hampton Roads waters
  21. I don't think ash will last long below grade – dry rot can be an amazingly fast and insidious process – but good luck.
  22. Thanks, fellas. I appreciate the info. If I grab them, I will do a quench and spark test and let everyone know what I find for future reference. Sorry for this newbie followup question, but will "medium carbon" steel water-quench-harden to become harder than a file? Thanks again.
  23. Gosh, a hundred views and not one person willing to hazard a guess? I've heard that railroad track (and railroad car wheels) were made of HC steel, so I was wondering whether these fish plates might be HC, as well. If so, I'd like to snag them from the roadside before they disappear... Thanks in advance for any info.
  24. Found two abandoned railroad track fish plates and the cut-off bolts that went with them on the side of the road today. Anyone know what kind of steel might be in the fish plates and bolts? I'm trying to think of good ways to recycle...and I'm hoping those fish plates should be HC steel...
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