cal-k

wish i had one

how bout hamilton, its southeastish? whats involved?

see wat i can do

wernt usin no compound, paraffin wax maybe

drill it like you did, then i chisel it out (mine arte mostly aluminum) or i have started to use really small files about eighth of an inch thick, can get them in a buch of different shapes. drifting certainly sounds easier

have had the same problem so i bought a soft muslin wheel for just the wood, still leaves a slight stain somehow. huh also, not to hijack your thread, but trying to polish bolsters already on the knife, but not the handle at the same time is hard. ive tried to mask off the handle first with tape, but that only works till the tape wears through. ideas?

i'm near grundy camping now and i came across these knives i think they are imports from finland the label says: Original IISAKKI PUUKKO knife picture LAATU JA PERINNE Quality since 1879 the blades were like 2" long obviously forged, and going for 112 bucks before tax. so, anyone know this guy, or is able to explain the price (bolsters were a little rough, looked like cast copper) just interested thanks cal-k

hey its been a long time! i'm looking at trying to make a spinner ring, that is a ring that is a u channel in cross section with another ring sitting in channel heres the problem: im afraid that if i try to peen the ouside lip on the sides of the other ring, i could split the metal, or make it really messy what i need is a way to put a lip on the outside ring on both sides, while doing no damage to the inneer ring... and it looks like i'll have to cast both rings in aluminum to get a good size...could cast lip one one side ideas? ways to make out of steel (i cant get enough heat for a forge weld) thanks cal-k

internet connection is too slow for pics. Sorry! From what i remember of cutlasses it is a little too short, and not enough curve in the blade.

My buddy showed me a sword lately that he got from his father. says it's from Africa and was used in a war of some sort. it's in roughish shape and has a cast brass or bronze gryphyn haed for the pommel. the basket is pierced sheet brass/steel hard to tell, and is crimped and soldered into the gryphyn's mouth. It has a punched picture of a large ship with 4 or 5 square sails, a pennant or flag on the mast, a clipper type hull, with round portholes along it's length. the blade's temper line is 6" above the basket (weird i think) and the rest of the blade has been totally quenched. the blade is engraved probably acid etch with the words (s)Havercool V.O.C. Batawa in a floral box. The (s) is possible , there was a rust spot right there. the other side of the blade has a floral pattern on about half the blade and the Maker's touch mark a large V with an O near the top of the left arm of the V and a C on the right arm same height as the O. Any and all information that i can pass on would be appreciated cal-k

Love the handle, is it through tang, what wood is used at the right end, and roughly middle? (not the spalted stuff)

Thanks ertwdan! i guess keep it smart just makes sense

Hey, i have quite an extensive collection of knives ive made and am wondering if there are any laws in ontario against the making, selling, collecting Knives. any permits needed for forging and other stuff? any help would be appreciated as i dont want to have my collection suddenly impounded, or to do anything against the law.

that looks real good considering your tools! i use a 4'' grinder, then files, then the pad or belt sander. now all you gotta do is fit some nice slab handles

hey ironrosefarms - the expanding action of the gorilla glue is bad. it creates a sort of foam that is NONSTRUCTURAL, gorilla glue is only good if all your pieces are almost perfectly meshing. I find that 2 part epoxy works great if you have any voids.

Melt aluminum, etc. sell steel for scrap

Olive - smells like ollebolen MMMMMM MMMMMMM

check out chop shops, they often have tonnes of leaf spring laying around

Yeah, they work just fine.k ive used aluminum nails for flashing and havent had a problem yet. theyre especially good if youre going for a more sleek silvery look, cause brass would just kill that (or at least i thinks so, maybe im just crazy) Dont use em for hinge pins though, they wear through pretty fast on a folder.

if you want smaller ones, i use a pad sander, with 80 grit sandpaper it makes 1/8'' circles, and if you are careful with how you guide the pad sander, you can get a damascusy sort of look (not nearly as distinct as the real stuff though)

i hadn't heard of thermite till now, so i looked it up, pretty crazy stuff. I don't think ill worry much though; i've been grinding iron outside and file aluminum inside for two years now, and nothin's blown up (yet)

almost all my knives have a hilt made of plate brass or aluminum. i get it anywhere from 1/4'' to 1/2'' thick, then cut it out on the bandsaw. now here's the problem: that hunk of aluminum is very square and doesn't look much like a hilt, so i am rounding it off and shaping it with a woodrasp and Bastard Files. As you can imagine this takes quite awhile, and the elbows don't like it much. any suggestions on how to shape aluminum or brass easily? thx

hey my moms birthday is comin up and she is looking at iron garden sculptures. i think they could be quite easily made with just half inch square stock, so no problems there. but the ones she likes have a very vibrant orange rust to them that doesn't seem to get worse. any suggestions on how to get a controlled rust, and then stop it? thx

had a similar experience. drawknife caught and took a chunk out of my hand. i advise a sanding finish 1000 grit with brown paper hand buffing afterwards.

charcoal works fine for me and i've never seen anything like that! hows your forge built? i'm switchin to propane too, just makes sense