picker

Picked up some marble and granite remnants (Free) - they turn into nice little curio tables.

I re-read this gem of a thread. In my younger days, as I entered the competitive business world I learned many of these lessons through trial and error. Success came in fits and starts. I managed to maintain a blacksmith business for 13 years. Now, after a hiatus of 18 years, the economy has dealt me out of the career field I've been working. I'm seriously considering re-opening my business once again. I'm conducting a feasibility study, and wanted to re-read this post to confirm the things that at one time evolved into a second nature in my business dynamic. Thanks again.

Used all types of forges. Coal forge is romantic, but not practical unless you're in an industrial setting, or away from folks who will complain of the smell. Sucking down coal smoke for extended periods will shorten your life span. Works on your nervous system after several years. I like working on a coal/coke forge if I have something heavy duty and I want to be a boss with a hammer.

Is that an 8" face or 6"? Looks like a decent vise.

Sorry to hear this. Hate thieves. Suggest you get a dog. Preferably, a bad dog. :angry:

I had an engineer buddy who picked up junk on tracks all the time. He brought me a 20" piece of 137 track. Must have been an end cut, because it was shiny and new. My other buddy had a nice Clarke metal cutting bandsaw and he cut it in half. It took several hours to cut through it. The railroads get all the best metal. The 137 grade was top of the line. I traded one half, and kept the other, mounted it on a stump and used it for incidental work. It was impervious to anything I did on it.

LOL- I set my beard to smoldering once upon a time too. :lol:

That, is an A+ set up.

I can't stress enough to new smiths to always use a form of eye protection. My experience was pretty scary. Several years ago, in my haste, I neglected to wear my glasses for a brief piece of work. Sure enough, a speck of hot metal got me in the eye. It was on a long weekend and I felt I needed to finish my work and I would see my doctor on Monday. Bad decision. I couldn't get the fleck of iron out of my eye and I couldn't sleep for two nights. When I went to my doctor he informed me a small rust ring was developing on my eye, and he referred me immediately to an eye surgeon. The surgeon had to remove the metal with a laser. I didn't always protect my eyes in my younger days with any shaded or smoked glasses either. Which may have contributed to my having early symptoms of cataracts, and which I eventually have undergone two eye surgeries for lens replacements. Please, always protect your eyesight!

The rule of thumb, or elbow as stated by George is correct. My work was accomplished on an 8" face railroad post vise. You'll want to make sure the vise is mounted securely to a post that has a diameter large enoough to hold the vise, and the weight of the work you're working on. My vise could hold material weighing several hundred pounds (wagon wheel). You can buy treated telephone pole culls. They've been treated specifically to be placed in the ground, so they last a long time. Make sure the placement is optional for the work you'll be doing. Prefereably, if your right handed, place the vise on your right, and far enough away from any work area or sharp eges of other equipment so the lever isn't impeded. But, close enough that your hot work can be clamped in without losing too much heat. You will have to dig, and if you have a mechanical auger, the better, or you'll have to dig, and dig some more to place the post. Anywhere from 3-4' is deep enough. You can go deeper if you care too. Don't use concrete or cement to secure the post vise in the ground. You will regret it when you have to dig the post out. As it ages, weather conditions, humidity, and the torque which transfers from the vise to the post, it will eventually create weak points and the post will start to split and you'll have to replace it- which means...dig out the concrete or get the backhoe and chain the post and wrench it out. To secure the post in the ground, use dirt and clay only, with a few pebbles and small rocks mixed in damp layers. You can add a little sand which will fill in any air pockets as the post settles. Tamp each layer down solid with the edges with a 2x4. Use a level to keep the post plumb to a degree. You can also wrap the post in scrap leather, wire (Piano wire is great if you can acquire some) or both to keep it from splitting prematurely. Especially, if you're using 1/2" or greater lag screws securing the vise 4" or deeper into the post. I used this method, and my post vise was used daily for more than 13 years before the post had to be replaced. Good Luck

Yes, I found that buying a treated telephone pole cull and cutting to length lasted quite awhile. To get more mileage out of them, I would wrap the stump in piano wire (if available) or leather. A nice steel post a great option. Good industial I beam works great if you can find some. good luck

Good work! And, they feel even better in your hand because your hand sculpted them.

Looks like a nice vise. However, you'll find that the vise will soon overpower your post, and as the weather and heat dry out the post, you will find the post splitting and splintering. You'll be tugging, pulling and torquing metal in the vise, and all that will transfer into the post.