Chuck Richards

Look on the die, If it says HSS then it is probably M2 cobalt steel or it says carbon steel or is not marked with HSS then they are a good quality high carbon steel.

The excess fire scale is from an oxidizing atmosphere. You want a slightly reducing flame. Adjust your fuel air mix so there is some yellow flame coming out of the front. No too much but just some licks. This is a reducing flame. You should be able to keep the scale to a minimum in the forge. It will scale when you remove it though. But not nearly as much as you show. The amount of carbon in RR spikes do not have enough carbon in them to worry too much about annealing but it is a good practice to adopt.

Great Lighting is required over the finishing bench. I use a metal halide light right above my finishing station. I went out and purchased one after I had gone to a show that had them there. I thought my knives looked good until I pulled them out under those lights. I put one back in the case and took it home. Like Ed said it is just a matter of knowing how to look at the blade.

too rich for my blood. i don't have anyplace to put it either. would have to move my hammer. don't want to downgrade to a 30lb hammer. the 2 anvils sound nice though. and a few misc pieces..good luck i hope i goes to an active smith. preferably you larry

Man that's right across the river from me.. Race ya:D;):D

Heat treat was with a torch at the time these were made. I am setting up a salt pot now, just more control. Heat to one color change over nonmagnetic and quench in warm (peanut) oil. Like many I have now switched my oil to an actual quench oil. I am using a lot of W2 so Parks 50 is my primary oil. Temper 375 for 2 hours repeat and check edge for chip out.

I have made many knives from5160.. Not from the material specifically from burtons stock. if you take a look at my website there are a few there....

Custom Knifemaker, Retired Chief USN. House Husband to my wonderful wife who is a registered nurse.

I worked under a 10X20" tarp shed for about 9yrs. Had my power hammer, press, forge and anvil under it. Keeps you out of the weather though not out of the cold. I lined the walls with 1/2 inch OSB. This prevented melting through the walls. I had to replace the roof about every other year due to UV damage. I never had a problem with heat from my propane forge on the roof but I do not know how it will work with coal, should be fine. The nice thing is it is relatively cheap and non permanent. I did pour a concrete floor to support the larger equipment but it is not required for hand operated tools.

The one near me is primarily known as metals recycling center rather than a scrap yard.

Check out the local scarp yards or steel suppliers. Many times they have a chunk laying around and don't have a ready use for it. I paid .65/lb for this one and had to do some cutting on it. i had a quote for one this size at $250. That was cut to size and ready to go.

not enough carbon for good edge retention. It will get somewhat hard and makes great hammers. Should have at least .5 carbon but .6-7 is better. My favorite mono steel is W-2 1. carbon and .18 vanadium with .25 manganese. Another great and forgiving steel is 5160.

If you really want to be "safe" get anti flashback hose connectors. Sold at welding supply. I have use a propane forge for 12 years now. I have has flashbacks and never had a problem. Did not even melt the copper I use in the orifice.

The real hard stuff is high speed steel and the softer stuff is high carbon. Both have been used as blade material. Just how do you HT it? You really do not have enough to test soo you will be doing a best guess. For beginning it may be OK but if you go much further you will see a great difference using Known steels. At least use springs which normally are high or medium carbon.

I use FC at a 3 parts water to 1 parts FC mix. I have had different WI that does not show the grain as well as others. I also make up a WI and Nickel guard billet. This really looks great with the high contrast.

The last steel I sent that did not take up enough space and was too heavy for my comfort, I filled up the remainder of the box with an oil absorber. It is lighter than Kitty litter but does not compact like foam peanuts do. It only added a couple of pounds and since i was well under the total weight it worked out great. I have received 20-30 packages from Don Hansen III with W-2 in it. He tapes up all the steel so it does not move around too much and I have had no problems at all. He told me of all the box's he has sent he has only lost a couple and another was repackaged by the post office. Over all it works really good for those of us who ship heavy items.

I use a propane forge with a thermocouple. I can see what temps I am forging at and welding at. I use 1084/15N20 most of the time in my Damascus. If I don't have 1984 i use 1095. You should be able to weld at lower temps the higher the carbon.but there are more variables in it esp when talking coal. I normally weld around 2350F. I do go up to as high as 2450F. I can weld Iron at these temps. I have no problems with higher heats. Now if I were using O-1 or 52100 I would tone it down a bit. At least during the first few welds. But simple carbon steel can take the heat. If you are having to hit it hard to get it to take then it is not hot enough. Light taps are all it should take. THen I do 3 rounds before I really get er going. Once it is welded I can forge in any direction sides or face whatever. I am using a 100lb power hammer to draw my billet out with so if it was going to delam it would. I just finished up a W pattern billet where all the welding is done on the edges. Really have to make sure the billet is solid. I was always taught to forge at welding temps. Then only come down on the final heats. But there are as many opinions out there as there are smiths. Try to find some 1080 or 1095. I sent along some new 15n20 and some used material in 1.25 and 1.5. Your band strap will work fine for some of the used material. Just keep on trying.

I'll have to keep that in mind. I will be picking some more of the 52100 up and may just do that. Shipped out 54 lbs in a flat rate box last week. Post Office had some explatives about that one.

The movies have glamorized the Bowie Knife. James Black was supposed to have made the original Bowie. There are many questions that have not been and will probably never be answered like what was the steel used and was it folded. It depends on the account you read, Some say it was a mono steel, probably simple carbon 1060-1090 range (since that was all they had). Some have said that Mr Black forged in a piece of meteorite. If so then it had to be folded to homogonize the billet. A description found by one of Jim Bowies descendants describes the knife as a big butcher knife. Also the only knife that has been documented to have been owned by Jim Bowie was just that. Looked like a big Forsner. Was it used for prying??? Pet peve time. If it was it was abused. The tip of the knife I mentioned above was broken off so it probably was. A knife is not a pry bar. It is not meant to take the lateral pressure. There are many that will provide some pry bar effect. But if you need a prybar or screwdriver then please get one.

EV. Those are cold shuts. Your fire is not hot enough when you try to weld. Soak it for a couple of minutes at heat and try not to burn it. Using known material will also help. Care package on the way.

Do the acetone and windex. Also once in the etch take it out after about 30 seconds and make sure it is etching evenly. I then rub lightly with 1500-2000 grit wet dry. If there was anything left on the blade it will be removed and not leave any resist on the blade.

The boric acid can cause pitting if too much is added. I tried the flourspar and your right don't breath while applying or while heating. I never had the problem of foaming with 20 mule team. if you flux at a red or red-orange heat just before it begins to form scale, it will flow like melted butter. That is what your billet needs to look like also when it is ready to weld. You probably know that anyway. Good luck

EV, Since you are using a coal fire the type of flame is absolutly critical. It has to be reducing and a very clean fire (no clinckers). Also there must be a good bed of coke under the billet. The best way to forge a damascus billet is in a beehive. Mound up the coal after it is going good and allow it to burn for a bit, 5-10 minutes. Get the center coked out and then poke a hoe in the center of the mound from the side closest to you. it will be a blast furnace coming at you but the fire will be better for this type of welding. Make sure you are using a good flux, anhydrous borax is great 20mule team ok. You should not need a more aggressive flux. Make sure the billet is held together in a solid fashion, ie tack the sides so there is no warping. Then it is just a matter of getting it to welding temp. One mistake people make is they try to do too much on the first weld. Take light strikes and cover the billet quickly. Then brush reflux and back in the forge. Do this 3 times then go for it. Even if there are a couple of minor inclusions they should close up and weld as long as you are working at welding heat. Keep working at heat until you are ready to do the final finish. Welding in a coal forge is definitely harder but is absolutely doable. Made many of my first billets in coal forge. Propane is cleaner and easier but that's a different story. Good luck and drop me an email sometime.

EV, I would recommend Ed Caffrey's set. Video page Also JD smith has a great DVD that is available BladeGallery: Fine handmade custom knives, art knives, swords, daggers

EV.. Email me at chuck@woodchuckforge.com. I have an offer for you you cannot refuse.;):D