Ratel10mm

No it wasn't - Havit had been having it! Honest! ;)

I've been thinking about the material. My local Stainless supplier reckoned that 32x8mm was the way to go, thinking that my original 20x5 would look too 'light'. If I move up to 32x8mm I think it would make it easier to smooth out transitions & avoid paw traps as Bob suggested - good idea Bob, I can't believe I didn't think of that! And it would also make traditional joints easier I think - particularly rivets & tenons? So, does anyone have a suggestion for the ideal size of stock to use? Here's the inspiration for the form, Hokusai's Great Wave.

It's almost October! I said, "It's almost OOOOCCCTTOOOBBBEEEERRRRRR!!!!! ^_^ B) :D :D

I have heard that Bahco are made in China, at least some of the stuff available here in Oz. I don't know if that's true. Spyderco now have a factory in China producing a knife or 2 for them. The Glessers certainly wouldn't harm their brand by using a factory they didn't fully trust, regardless of the country. Anyang power hammers. Although I'll admit that they benefit from a bit of valve improvement. Other than those, I have no idea. Most of the once-good tool brands I have used in the past, are pretty poor made in China. Even if the steel is good, the fit & finish is often rubbish compared to the older stuff. Let's face it - we all want Rolls Royces for Skoda prices. :P

Welcome to the forum L.M. :D

Yeah Dale, the car blower is what I use. Good point, I hadn't noticed A_F is a newbie! Welcome to IFI Anfil_Fire777. Now, assuming you meant 250-300cfm (cubic feet per minute) that's 425-510cmh (cubic metres per hour) here are some options. Note some are ballpark: http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=1844867 $230 list http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3324113 $640 list These are our local duct suppliers & have a couple of fans available that may suit. The extract fan I was considering when/if my current setup needs replacing is currently around $70 to me: http://www.completeairsupply.com.au/ The following 3 companies are probably the most common in my industry & any one of them should be able to help or point you to a local supplier: http://www.ziehl-abegg.com/au/contact.html http://www.nicotra-gebhardt.com/cms/front_content.php?idcat=79 http://www.ebmpapst.com.au/en/ If it comes down to it & you can't get one of these over the web, I may be able to pick one up & post it for you.

Also talk to the air con wholesalers - Heatcraft & Actrol are the main 2 in Oz. They'll be able to sell you one or direct you to a local suplier. Fantech may have a local branch. RS Components have branches in every state & probably have what you want, but they are trade only.

I don't know about bacon, but I have had steak in a bitter chocolate sauce in Venice. It was delicious, but possibly I remember the meal more for getting engaged to my wife. ;)

I run my forge off an old car ventilation fan hooked up to 240V via a battery & charger. The battery forms a ballast for the charger. I've seen a bathroom extract fan at my local duct supplier that runs pretty quiet on 240V, @ about $70 Oz that should do the duty & is what I'll try next time. If I remember I'll get the details for you next time I'm in there, bit it may be a while. Look up air con duct suppliers in your local area if you need the info right away. Hope that helps. :)

Ian, I'm pretty sure there were a couple of smaller ones out in the paddock somewhere. Stacked up on a big beast iirc. I'm looking forward to this year's 'treasure hunt' as I hear Moony's got some serious new toys!

Nice idea. The limiting factor will be the KW output of the burner(s). My local BBQ supplier told me that ordinary BBQ burners are rated too low to run a gas forge, but that the output from a single ring camping burner would do the trick. It may be possible to bore out the jets in your burner if you need more output, but consult a licences gas technician so you don't make it unsafe.

They sure do. Too far for me as well, especially having nowhere to put them. I suspect Moony might grab them, he has a few square meters left on his property without power hammers. I think. :lol:

He's back! Quick, hide the beer!!! Mate, I'm there, Longstrider & his new Missus will be there. You & Sue will be there. Phil's there, dunno if he's bringing Damo & the rest of his mob? Jocko & his lad. Ian R. Andrew O'C I believe as well. That's all I have any idea of, hope it helps. :)

It's become common practice in the U.K. to use inverters to set up pumps, fans & other plant where the design, manufacturer's available & as installed flow rates tend to differ somewhat. They're used during the commissioning process to set the motor speed at the point that system balance & required flows are achieved, then left at that. Seems to me that Basher's had a brilliant idea that I wish I'd had! :D

Thanks guys. Fe-Wood, as Ian says the curved vertical to the right of the wave forms part of the latch. The vertical to the right of that is the end post for the balustrade. My newest plan is to extend the foot of the wave behind the post, and the upper part of the latch riser in front of it, using the post itself as part of the latch. I'm trying to avoid having any fittings on the balustrade post that someone could catch themselves / shopping etc. on. Here's a photo of the dog, you can just about see where the gate is going at the top of the stairs: Yes it doesn't form part of the picture too well, but I'm not sure how else to incorporate a simple latch that can be manipulated with full hands. I was thinking of the traditional British farm gate latches with this version. I also need to have gaps small enough that the brown seagull chaser lounging in the photo above can't get through. Am worrying about the size of the centre of the wave now as the 'client' doesn't want the surfer. Ian, I'm inclined to agree about the weight. However there is no frame, so I'm not sure about being able to utilise a bottom peg. I might be able to do it by extending the rear of the wave foot so that it's in line with the hinge, though. Yes, corrosion is a HUGE challenge here. I was originally thinking 314 stainless as there's quite a lot of boat building around here & I can get some bar stock (at a cost!) locally. However the 'client' wants black to match the railings, so I guess it'll be painted. Yes, really looking forward to Get Hammered! :D

Thanks for the thread Phil, it's really nice to see what a commercial operation can do. With regard to the HT, do you use temperature controlled ovens & suchlike, or is it still done by eye & feel? Do the clients expect / set tight standards, are yours tighter, or does it not really matter too much? Just wondering since I have been talking HT in cutting competition knives a lot recently. :D

Thanks for the update John. Hope his ute doesn't kark it before November as well! :o

Hi all Well, I'm working on my first gate! Here's the current design chalked out on the garage floor: It's basically a stair gate for our verandah, to keep the dog from legging it around the neighbourhood. Dimensions are approximately 1m x 1m. The original idea was to cut out the wave shape from thick sheet, and forge the upright bar catch to round. However my client (i.e. my wife, but client sounds better to us amateurs! ) wanted it to be 'see through' as the existing balustrade is steel posts with stainless cable (much like on a boat) & she thought a solid gate would look out of place. So, where the original wave shape was, I assumed it to be an open shape, and added a couple of lines to fill out spaces where the dog could get through. The hatched poles either side of the gate represent existing poles. The left hand one is 90mm square & part of the frame of our house. This is the one I'll hang the gate from. At this stage I'm intending to do the wave in 20x5mm bar, and the scroll in 15mm. Material will be mild steel. May use 20x5 for the upright, or round bar textured for interest. So, what do you all think of the design? Anything I could do better? The very light line below the upper edge of the wave will possibly be another 'line' in the final design, but I'm not sure of it. Is my choice of material suitable, or would you use something else, & why? Will 15mm be strong enough in the scroll to take the weight (around 14m of 20x5mm bar) or do I need to upgrade? (I plan to buy / make a form of hanger for the scrolls to hang in, thus forming the gate hinge.) Thanks for looking. :)

I really think you're a master at this stuff mate. As usual I love the pattern you've got, and I also really, really love the overall aesthetic. Does it have nodes & stuff like Peter J lectured about at your sword smithing weekend?

To the original poster; do you know Bob Oakes? He rents out space in his smithy, the lady renting it runs courses for him. He also rents out the shop to his students although I don't know what restrictions he places on the arrangement. May well be worth having a chat with him?

Are there any refrigeration installers near you? Back when I was doing commercial installation, we had pipe benders up to 2.5" iirc. If you can find someone with the gear benders that'd be the easiest way. Mind you I can't recall the diameter of the bend they form. Could also try your local refrigeration parts trade counters. One of them would be able to get you the 2" benders I'm sure.

Dunno what to say mate. You have my no. if you want to talk - tactics.

There's still a formal apprenticeship system in Australia which is pretty good from what I've heard. Of course, you'd have to get over here with a visa that allows you to work, and find a smith in need of an apprentice. Niether are insurmountable obstacles.

All fingers crossed here, fwiw.

Hey Ian, I already told him that. So now I'm chief B&B finder! lol. Dale, I guess we officially have 2 more for supper on Saturday. I'll send you a PM as requested for your catering.