Toadstone

Cool shop, Steve! Thanks for showing us the pictures.

Steve, do you have a picture of your cupola with the fan in it to share with us? I am planning on building a shop (not attached to the house) and would like a functioning cupola with something like a small whole-house fan in it to pull the air up and out. I'm having trouble finding a fan that is made to be used in a flat orientation. Actual whole-house fans are universally too large and move far too many cfm for a small shop (one-car garage-sized). I thought I found a good one at Northern Tool, but when I asked them if it could be mounted flat, they said that it must be used vertically, as it is meant to vent through an exterior wall.

Good, it looks like I was on the right track. I'll head over to Academy and see what they have. Thanks for the replies!

I am taking a college TIG class, and the instructor had us buy four ceramic cups. I have a large drawstring bag with all my TIG gear in it: hose and torch coiled up, extra collet, extra gas lens, box of electrodes, and three ceramic cups all just rattling around inside the bag. Actually, I wrapped all the cups up in a folded bandana and then put a rubber band around them so they have a little protection. The big drawstring bag is carried inside a duffle bag with my PPE and tools. My question is: how do you carry extra ceramic cups around without worrying about accidentally smashing them? Do you have a little padded box or something? Do you simply not carry any backups? I was considering getting a little plastic fishing lure box and sticking some foam in it, provided I could find a suitable-sized box.

I live in an apartment in the suburbs of Houston, TX. I am more focused on saving to buy a house and paying off my wife's school loans than actually actively looking for an anvil (I don't have a place to put it even if I found one), but I still look a bit, just for fun. I haven't tried actually getting up from my computer to find one, because I'm actually a little afraid that I will find a glorious, reasonably-priced anvil at a flea market and then won't be able to buy it. Local Craigslist is pretty barren - there are a few overpriced anvils and several WTB listings from desperate smiths. Local pick-up eBay listings are pretty much non-existent for my area as well. I'm going to a hammer-in later this month hosted by the Houston Area Blacksmith's Association (HABA), so I expect to get some pointers about where to look once I have the green light to go anvil-hunting.

You can buy a fiberglass and resin full-sized replica from HBO for a mere $30,000 (plus $1,800 shipping): http://store.hbo.com/game-of-thrones-life-size-replica-iron-throne/detail.php?p=373634

Here are a couple tutorials from the "blueprints" section that you might find useful: BP1001 Hofi Hammer Technique http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/23215-bp1001-hofi-hammer-technique/ BP1002 Hofi Hammer Technique - The Swing http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/23216-bp1002-hofi-hammer-technique-the-swing/

Here's a topic in the Blueprints section that you may find helpful. Hofi's tips for making handles: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/23378-bp1012-making-hammer-handles/?hl=%2Bhofi+%2Bhandles

Quite an impressive feat of do-it-yourself determination, sir! I can't wait to read your report on how she performs.

I wear these under my welding helmet while taking a stick welding class. I never actually use them to directly protect my eyes while welding - they are simply an added layer of protection. The lenses aren't really crystal clear as the appear to be in the image on this site. They are kind of yellow with a rainbow sheen, like gasoline on water. They don't seem to change the color of things too badly while you are wearing them. Here are the relevant specs: Enhanced VLT (Visible light transmission) allows 58% of visible light to be seen Doesn’t distort color like green shaded lenses. Blocks 75% of harmful IR radiation. Provides 99% protection from harmful UV-A and UV-B rays. Pyramex Ztek ARC Safety Gasses with Clear IR Coated Lens Note that Pyramex also has another mofel that look just like this which are not IR coated. Don't mess up and get those by mistake.

I looked at this post a few weeks ago, and have since started taking a stick welding class. I just started scrolling through the pictures today, and suddenly I feel compelled to stop and check out your beads. Learning to weld has changed my life forever... Really nice forge! I can't wait to make a forge myself.

Forney makes good stuff in my limited experience. They make a few reasonably-priced wood-handled brass brushes, including this 13-3/4" one: https://www.forneyind.com/store/detail/719/utility_hand_brushes_with_wood_handles/6252/wire_scratch_brush_brass_with_curved_wood_handle_13-34_x_012/

When I clicked on the picture, I said out loud, “Oooh, pretty!" Good work. I can't wait to move out of this apartment so I can build a forge.

The instructor at my community college welding class showed us a video by this guy to help teach us how to cut with an oxy acetylene torch. His videos are packed with information, and I felt compelled to take notes.

Google "punch and chisel holder". Here is what Grainger carries. You may be able to find better prices elsewhere - I didn't compare.

When I was in the service, I saw lots of O.D. tool bags in use, and they all seemed to be holding up really well. As George pointed out, though, you may not be able to procure the genuine U.S. government-issued article. It's worth a shot. I was just looking at them yesterday, in fact. If you do end up buying one, be sure to post a review for us to let us know if it was worth it :) .

Thanks for the replies. I will start keeping an eye out for a Bufco blower. John, it looks like both of you are having a lot of fun with your little forge!

I - like many others - am still in the planning stages of smithing. As soon as I can move out of this stupid apartment, I plan to build a charcoal forge and get started. After reading lots of posts on lots of different forums to educate myself, I have determined that when the time comes, I would like to use a hand-cranked blower. It will be used in a side-blast, non-water-cooled configuration, just a thick-walled steel pipe passed through some fire brick. My question is this: Will a small Buffalo Forge Co. "Bufco" blower be sufficient in this capacity? I have learned that charcoal only requires 50 cfm or less. I can't seem to find any data about cfms for this blower, and I was hoping that some of you out there who own them could help me out. To avoid confusion, I'm talking about the Buffalo blower seen in these pictures posted by hammerkid: http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/23628-my-champion-blower-old-buffalo-bufco-beside-each-other/ Thanks!

I don't know how safe this is, and it will certainly mess up the antique appeal, but if you've gotta have bare metal, this looks like a possible solution: HOW TO: Strip paint using Oven Cleaner

OllyO, I would do an internet search for "boiler treatment" to find some rust preventatives that can handle the kind of heat that the water in your bosch will be subject to. That should get you moving in the right direction. Also, you could look at automotive radiator rust inhibitors like Water Wetter, for example. Please note that I have no practical knowledge about any of this - I'm just tossing ideas.