J. Bennett

Hello. I'm looking for a home, surface nitriding technique, if that is possible. It's more for a durable surface coloring system, than a hardening scenario. I know they do that for high end plumbing fixtures and such, but in a million dollar vapor deposit chamber. Any cool ideas out there? Thanks.

Yeah, I'll have to keep the pre heat to a minimum so it sucks the heat out of the weld faster.

The steel face is awful thin. Down to about 1/8 inch. A cracked edge on 1 corner. It's a block anvil. Lots of rebound and no ring. Typical Fisher. I hope to keep it's personality. EDIT: Can't find a pic of the old girl. Here is a place to go, to see some of my more, refined thermite escapades.... YouTube - steelace1p1's Channel

Those are good points! I chose 4340 because even in it's annealed state, it's quite stiff. Heck, even at forging temps, it's quite stiff. As for the information, I'm going on something like my 275th pound of thermite over the years. Lots of trial and almost as much error.;) An occasional success, here, and there. I do , finally, have the refractory down though. Took awhile....

Thanks. Yeah, me too. That's my favorite anvil. Going to use 4340 sheet. 1" thick. I got the refractory down to use for the form. Should take about an 8 pound charge, to produce a 4 pound weld. I can always do 2 runs, if there isn't enough.

I'm going to try it. It might take 2 runs. You just need to make a form, put the anvil on it's side and pre heat the joint/face with a big rose bud. That's all. I have a favorite Fisher that needs a new face. I'll post it if y'all want. ... when I get around to it.

That's true. I heard someone say once; "You need the right combination brains and brass when messing with large thermite charges. Too much of one and not the other, will inevitably get you in some form of trouble". Welcome, BTW. Don't be afraid to ask the bold questions and try new stuff.

Hi ya Steve. Yep. You still need a lot of heat for alloying tungsten though. That's were ferro alloying chems come in handy.

Cool links, as usual Czar:) You don't need to reach the melting point of refractory alloys.. BUT you should try to get close. I did it, but used ferro tungsten. a little easier than using elemental tungsten. here is how I did it. YouTube - Boiling Iron

Can do! Grandpa was a SeaBee, (plank holder), and was stationed at Pearl when it happened. His unit was the first on the scene, and began work, even as the attack was going on.

Wow. It's not Rodeo season, so you must have been lost.

Nice. I like this site, although I mostly lurk here. Lots of good stuff in the archives. The alchemy and formulas, is right up my alley, so to speak. A little off topic, but someone said you can't throw a dirt clod in Oregon without hitting a smith. We need a giant hammer-in here. I'd volunteer, but I only have an acre.

Yep. that's me.

Rural St. Paul, closer to old Champooeg, on the east bank of the Willamette.

Howdy, and welcome. Looks like the south is well represented here.

Grants Pass eh? Got any good Sasquatch stories? Howdy from Champooeg.

Yeah, buddy. Try and not limit your skills to just CNC. You may like programming better, so study machining language. Know how to do complicated set ups, by hand. You may like tool design/fabrication better. My experiences, is that the term "cnc operator", tends to be mass production, the same part, day after day. I have a machinist degree, but I took extra classes to upgrade to engineering. Opened a lot more doors. Worked as an engineering aid, (fancy draftsman), when the economy was laying off machinists. Gave me more options. Good luck, Jerry

I've been experimenting with homemade carburizing compound. So far, I've had a little success. If you are just packing it, leave out the sugar.. Differentially carburizing. - Bladesmith's Forum Board

Yep. I was just wondering if the feldspar and calcium carbonate would be good together in the reduction of iron ore. Feldspar can be very aggressive, (a good thing at times). The idea as a welding flux was just extra.

Bon Ami, the cleanser found in many kitchens. It sounds like it could be a flux/reducing agent for smelting, melting and maybe welding. The ingredients are simple. sodium carbonate, calcium carbonate and feldspar, with a bit of organic detergent. I was wondering if you could heat it up to burn off the soap, and use it as described?? Thoughts?

I'm making crucibles. Don't ask. I'll let you know if it works. Thanks

Can't answer your question, but thanks for that link! Jerry

I know he had guys flown Over from France. So not sure how modern. Probably 50/50 I would guess.

There is Blade west in Portland, in September. Nice little show. If you are studying cooperege, do you live near Newberg/Dundee? I have a friend and neighbor, who owns a winery, and I think he has a cooperege, but not sure. Got a nice flat bed of oak stave scraps a while back. Makes nice charcoal.