saintjohnbarleycorn

do you use it for welding then? thanks

looks like I am going to have to get some leaf spring, Will a band saw blade cut that without annealing? thanks.

I want to make a 45 degree offset peen, and cut it down to around 3 pounds. What I noticed in other new hammers is the mass is mostly around the eye of the hammer not in the head or peen part. If I can cut it slowly and get rid of the mass around the front and back and then maybe forge some of the peen, after cutting it at the 45 angle, it might work. Having never done anything like this before It might be a total flop! I will probably work on it in bits and pieces, the cutting of it anyway. thanks for the replies

thanks I see what you are saying there.

I picked up a couple of #8lb. heads. So I thought I could make a hammer out of one. I brought it up to orange heat and then banked the fire over it and let it sit overnight. My idea is that I would remove at least half of it to make a hammer. My logic may not be correct though. It is a usa made one probably about 20 years old or so it that makes any difference. I thought that If I annealed it I could maybe saw some with a bandsaw and grind the rest to shape. Is this a nutty idea?

That sounds good, I can find spring around, and if I have to make a new guillotine thats Ok too, I sure need the tig practice! For the one I made I am going to look for a piece of 1/2" rod SS for the fuller unless I find a 1/2 round somehow. I Have a really good steel place about a hour away, they take all sorts of junk and have a lot of stainless. I will have to look up butcher die, don't know that one yet. thanks again

bending forks was my first tool I made this week. They are a great help for lots of stuff.

thanks for the ideas, I built a spring fuller a couple of days ago, and I see that the part the hits the hot, is fine its the top that is flattening. I already put a "1/2" thick hittin head" on the top dies. just finished it a couple of hours ago. I have to finish the top and bottom a little to move in smoothly, then figure out what dies I can make with what I have. I figure a fuller, but after that I don't know. If you guys have some suggestions of what you found to be well used dies let me know. thanks again.

yes, I see, at this point I don't really have to worry about wearing things out! My arm will wear out sooner than the die!

wow that was quick czar!, I was thinking tig and maybe using stainless, I know its not real hardfacing but it would be many times tougher than the mild steel 1/2" plate.

I am going to make a guillotine today and was wondering if the dies should be hardfaced. by that I mean just running a bead or beads along the edge that hits the hot metal and grinding smooth. Or is it really not necessary just a lot of extra work. thanks.

thanks I will think about the flamethrower part!

you could do a spark test on them, I would imagine high carbon, if old and an alloy if new, but they are kind of short for knives aren't they?

speaking of hydraulic presses, I guess they have to be fast in order to work, or just the pressure is what is needed. I have a large wood splitter, that the heads would not be that hard to change out, I was wondering if that would work for large pices of steel that are a bit much to do by hand. thanks

I looked at the making hammer handles, and was wondering what kind of "glue" Mr. hofi was speaking about, epoxy? thanks.

thanks, but at 25kbps, it would take me about three weeks to download it! :)

I have not heard much about these, what are they good for and are there plans to build on in the bp? thanks.

Overall for all types of things, not particularly the metal stuff, the cordless screw gun has made things a lot easier for just building things. Other than that organization, and the internet for info. The internet, has made it more than easier its made some things possible that were impossible before.

I have some "not hollow" shanks from jack hammer bits, I think they are listed on the junk yard steel chart as s5. Are the solid ones good for hammers and the like? thanks

I will take a closer look at it this weekend. I could also weld together something to fit over the raised section, then screw it on if I can use the threads, then weld any type of thing to that. The file idea sounds like a good thing to weld on there. I can tig it on. thanks again for the help.

yes drop a screw its gone, but I guess you could use a magnet. the rest of the shop is concrete, which at some point will be replaced by concrete that is stronger and a flat finish. the stones are nice to walk on, having worked on concrete for many years i know how it takes its toll on you feet.

Ok, thanks. the welding sounds like the way to go, thanks for the other options of soft jaws also. and thanks glen I will look up the bp.

I had the saw already, so that is why I opted for it. I just did get the ( cheap yes) grizzly band saw with miter stand, $147. I used it last night its nosier than the milwalkee, but cuts about the same. The Millwalkee with stand is over $500. If I was using it all thet time I would go with the M, but I will only use it sporadically, I can use it for my business too cutting conduit. Ice, I am working on the rpm thing for a very old horz. recip saw. I got hold of a roto tiller gear, I think that might work. i wonder if it would work for you, they are free, heavy duty,and reduce the gear pretty low.

thanks, where the jaw threads are there is a raised section, about 3/8" wide and high the length of the jaw, it kind of locks the jaws from sliding up and down I guess. I will take a look at the HD ones when I get out that way.

I park the car next to the shop and have xm, so all but one or two types of music I don't listen to.