HWooldridge

The sucker rod I've seen has threaded male ends and they are joined with a separate threaded socket so you can make a continuous long connection inside a well but I'm sure there are different variations. One end is attached to the pump on the windmill and the other end is down-hole to the pump mechanism. All the old water and oil wells around here are done this way. It is usually a plain, medium carbon steel and good for tools and such.

A one chambered bellows has a valve that shuts when you pump it and the air stops when you stop. A two lung style is basically two single chambered bellows attached to each other. Air enters the bottom chamber when you pump and eventually begins to fill the upper chamber. Both chambers have one way valves but air can only escape from the nozzle on the top chamber. You can pump #1 vigorously and the top one will pressurize and blow continuously so a steady stream of air is achieved. You can also use two single chamber bellows side by side and get a good blast. Our group built a concertina style for a Spanish mission forge that are two lungs which look like accordions feeding a common tuyere. You stand behind the forge and pump with both hands. Several guys here and on Anvilfire have built very good bellows and would probably be willing to share plans if you ask nicely. :wink:

Strine, Yes - tying wire is also soft. I have welded baling wire in a lump just to play around but of course, it's a lot of work for little material. I was hoping we could collectively figure out how to get it in larger sizes.

I also posted this over on Forgemagic and hope someone will know the answer. <>

You are right, Ed. I did not pay close enough attention and thought the other two were just not hafted. I don't think they are for bending because the one with the handle looks like a struck tool but you never know...

I'll take a guess and say that they are to flatten and true the edge of wagon rims (before rolling), hinges, straps or other flat stock. In other words, they may be an "edge flatter". Did you find any matching bottom tools to go with the set tools?

Ed, 2" is fine. I planned for 4x4's but don't get yours too high to work on. I am tall and like the hammer up high so my dies are the same height as my anvil, vises, work tables, etc., and I can always work at the same level no matter where I go. This is just my personal preference - I'm not making a blanket recommendation. All the bolts do is keep it from walking. You don't need to sock 'em down with a 3/4" impact wrench to 200 lbs torque and you don't need vibration isolators. In fact, I think overtightening can put the frame in stress and possibly cause cracking or worse. Mine are often just barely more than finger tight. If one vibrates loose, I just run it back in. I welded 1" all-thread into the right pattern to a frame of rebar and poured the concrete over it. However, drilled and epoxied will work fine. I have seen several hammers mounted that way and I actually think it's better than my way but I went by an old diagram.

Ed, I used both. Concrete, then 4x4's tied together with all-thread and one of those thick rubber horse stall mats from Tractor Supply (or equivalent) directly under the hammer. The work and tools don't bounce as much when the anvil is cushioned and it's probably easier on the hammer.

Good comment about the older generation. My family was made up of farmers and ranchers - one thing I remember them saying was to pour cool water on your wrists and neck before drinking anything. They also thought that cold shock was bad and the blood was best cooled by putting water on the areas where the veins were closest to the surface. Always made sense to me and I still do it.

I posted this on Forgemagic about the effects... <> Heat stroke really can leave long-lasting effects. A long time buddy of mine was always able to take hot temps - just like most of the rest of us who grew up in Central Texas. One summer about 4 years ago, he did a general contracting job at an airport and was on the tarmac every day for a couple of months during the hottest time of the year. Even though he was drinking fluids, the heat cooked him to the point that he was sick for a month after the job completed. Now, he cannot take much heat and has trouble sweating. We and the docs think his perspiration capabilities were damaged so he overheats easier. He is still a general contractor but has to keep near A/C and lots of fluids. My grandfather worked hard his whole life and developed the same symptoms in his old age but I think his were accumulated from years of living in the heat rather than a single event. I bale hay all the time for myself and my neighbors. I usually wear a big floppy hat and keep it wet. Last year, I got very hot one afternoon in similar circumstances to you, Chuck. I was dizzy and barely made it home on the tractor. I jumped in the shower to cool off but I was a weak puppy for the rest of the day. There are days where I drink a gallon or more of tea or water and don't pee until late at night - it's all going out the pores. This week, it's been 95 and 70% humidity here but it's worse in Laredo and down south. You HAVE to stay hydrated - if you stop sweating, it's too late and you are not far from a fatal or debilitating heat stroke. You will start to feel light headed and giddy and then - THUD. Don't take chances... <> ------------------------------------------ I primarily drink ice tea and have done so my entire life. Gatorade will allow me to work a couple more hours but the difference is neglible and I don't like the taste. Plain water is perfectly fine but I'm conditioned to a little sugar. Real limeade made fresh over ice is outstanding - it's like the Lord knew that wherever limes grew, people would need a refreshing drink. Buy a sack of key limes and mash about 10 in a pitcher of ice water with a tablespoon of sugar - it's a real pick-me-up. I like a cold beer after hauling hay or tractor work but I absolutely do not drink alcohol while I work - it will dehydrate your body. I also think the most important things in the heat are some shade and a little breeze. I have big windows on my shop, which are set low so I have to squat a little to see out but they let air flow thru. Some of the worst shops I've been in were in wooded areas where no air circulation was possible. I went to a competition in Woodville one August when I was in my 20's. Was a timed event to make something out of railroad spikes and I dang near killed myself over a fire. No breeze, under a tent, high 90's, high humidity - bad combination.

In my life, I've owned 5 Willys Jeeps and 4 M37's. I am down to the best M37 now and plan to keep this one. Body is sound, it's completely stock with winch and runs like a top. Jeeps are fun but PW's WORK! And yes, I have bought parts from VPW... :wink:

Small world - ain't it... :D

Oakwood, Isn't Fairfield where Vintage Power Wagons is located? Are you acquainted with them? I have had several M37's myself but am down to only one '61 right now.

A 5x5x10 head would weigh close to 70 lbs. I'm not sure I would mess with anyone who could hold that up for very long. :shock:

Buy a name brand from a local supplier. Either Victor or the old Harris Calorific brand (or whatever it's called now). You will always be able to get parts and service. My really good Harris set was stolen some years ago so I have a second hand Victor but it gets the job done. A new set should have the complete setup less tanks, i.e., regulators, torch body, tips, hose, etc. Tanks can be leased or purchased but be aware that if you buy tanks and then move half way across the country, you may have trouble getting the local supplier there to swap out the old tanks. Some companies are real strict on this and some aren't but a lease can always be cancelled if need be. Torch welding can be done with filler rod or without depending on the type of joint. The viewing lens is a much lighter shade than an electric welding helmet - much like a very dark set of sunglasses. A 75 cubic foot acetylene here in Central Texas is $35 and a 125 oxygen is $12. Usage is entirely dependent on what you are doing. Welding does not take much of either but cutting will blow thru the O2 in a hurry.

I always felt 7018 had such a fluid slag that it was harder to see the weld puddle but it does leave a fine bead and of course, they need to be kept where moisture doesn't ruin them. I like 6010 and 6011 for about 95% of what I do and 7014 for the rest. I used to install boilers and we ran 6011 for the root and 7018 for the cover pass (after grinding) - 3/32 rod for the root and 1/8 for cover - both on DC. I have often heard 6013 recommended for beginners but I always seemed to get a few slag inclusions and quit using it. 7018 would be much better than 6013 and 7014 is more forgiving on slag problems, especially in horizontal - but 7018 is better out of position. I'm not sure but I think 7018AC has more iron powder that 7018DC. AC tolerates higher current so they make the rod to take advantage of it.

I learned to weld with an O/A torch followed by a stick machine. The first one I bought was a Lincoln 225AC and I still have it. They are just dandy for all around work and you won't be disappointed. I built several pole barns with that little machine running on a gas generator. DC lets you run lower currents so small rods run better on thin stuff like purlins. MIG's are easier to learn and will make outstanding welds. However, I have never heard of anyone who likes fluxcored wire so hard wire and shielding gas are the way to go and welding in drafty areas may not be entirely satisfactory. I don't know what type shop you have so this may or may not be an issue. A MIG is better than a stick machine on sheet metal (in fact, that is what they were originally designed for). TIG produces high quality welds in any weldable metal but takes the most practice to learn. It is very versatile but slow in production compared to MIG. I learned with an old style helmet so that is all I use - large view screen with gold shield - I can see everything when I'm working. I do not like the auto darkening hoods but several folks who learned in the past few years told me that they thought it was easier than flipping a hood up and down. You probably should try both and decide for yourself. A night-time vocational welding course at the community college is absolutely the best money you can spend right now. Do it before you buy a machine. You'll get exposure to all types of processes and will probably be able to complete some of your projects in class.

Ed, Stainless is just that...stain-less. Introduction of carbon steel to a stainless surface may cause some red streaking but it will not corrode away to nothing in a reasonable amount of time (like a millenium). I would paint the mild steel and put it together. The sacrificial piece may give you some additional peace of mind but it won't prevent staining unless draining water cannot reach the duct.

I used to practice traditional archery and the general consensus was that the growth rings in the wooden arrow should be perpendicular to the bow to have to most spine or stiffness. In other words, if the bow is held vertically, the rings would be on a horizontal plane. This makes no difference once the arrow is gone but sufficient spine is required when it'is loosed or the shot may be errant. What does this have to do with hammer handles - only the growth ring comparison... :lol:

I forgot to mention that the gloves I use occasionally are cotton mill gloves, which are designed for hot work and won't shrink on your hand like leather can. You can also soak them in water if you need some extra cooling. The only disadvantage I've found is that they will catch fire easily if they get a little oil soaked so I don't use them for general use.

I never wear a glove on my hammer hand but if I'm handling something that gets inordinately hot or is spattering me with scale, then I feel no shame in putting a light glove on my tong hand. I'm past my macho stage in life and have enough scars. :wink: I think Jim would have agreed that protection comes first - however, you will probably be more comfortable not using gloves in most instances.

A local neighbor boy picked up an aluminum boat, trailer and motor but the boat has a crack about 3 inches long near the top of the transom and 6 small holes in the hull near the water line. He asked me what to do and I said J-B Weld but he has gotten some other advice to weld up everything. Anyone have experience in fixing alum flotation devices? Thanks for any help...Hollis

Donald Streeter mentioned in his book that he used one for a small anvil near the forge. He would do small delicate welding jobs on it because he didn't have to go very far.

Yes, like a flat sharpening oilstone - maybe a medium grit. Put the stone in a vise at a comfortable height (about elbow), oil, press flat on the existing planes of the blades and hone the flats. You are trying to preserve the factory angles but hone enough away to get rid of the damage. Don't worry about sharpening the edge at this point, just get the lines back to normal, then sharpen the edge. Everybody has their own technique for sharpening but I butcher a lot of game and cut meat so I sharpen as follows: Hone on a fine oilstone at about 10 degrees on each side until I get a "wire edge", which is the metal thinned down to the thickness of foil. This will usually be evident only on one side of the blade. I then put it on a good kitchen steel to get rid of the burr and finally put it on a good leather barber's strop. When the knife stops cutting to my satisfaction, I put it on the steel again for a few swipes. I can sharpen a knife to a very fine edge in less than five minutes using this method.

I would try to hone that out by hand with a carborundum stone. JPH may have better advice. Power tools are great but they can also get you in trouble quickly... :wink: