Candidquality

Beautiful job as always. Glad to have you back and running again. Good to know Things have worked out.

Can run the natural gas forges, but need to ask to have the gas pressure in the line raised by the gas company. Doesn't have anywhere near the force pressure needed for a forge to run normally. And must of course have all the safeties in place like any other gas appliance, which takes it out of the range of a home build forge. Venting is an absolute must, even if it's a side draft through the wall. It's been done here before.. might take a bit of searching to find it though.

Definitely a great way to start out, easy to adjust to where you need and you're not out a whole lot if you make a mistake. Some people never switch away from them. Great for long stock as well. ;)

Actually if you could find a container load of anvils, I'm sure it could pay for the cost of you moving to Australia. Every smith I've had the pleasure to chat with down under has mentioned a great shortage of smithing tools. Might want to check with the group that posts here and see if you can't work out a few deals. I'm sure they'd be appreciative. Good luck with the move. sounds like fun.

I believe Hofi is in Israel from time to time. And we have an entire group from Australia, but not sure if any are from the island. Before too long one of two will probably pop up and let you know. Good luck and keep us posted.

definitely sound....might try reloading the window again...it's a wave sound stream

tried popping in and out a few times, with no luck. hopefully a few of you are getting to enjoy this. edit: took about 10 tries to get the video to play, but ti eventually worked.

Thanks for keeping us updated. waiting for the next set.

There's a few pieces of brass plate around here(1/8"). They came in with a mirror coating on one side. I'm not sure how you locate that particular kind of plate stock, but I don't believe it's uncommon. Great thing is that you don't have to worry about breaking glass at any point. And you could easily drill and tap it if needed. Or work hot steel around it to hold it in place without too much trouble. Just a thought. Edit: I just asked around here, it was order long ago, but it's chrome plated brass. No one can remember a price, but if it's the right material for the job....

Congratulations. Nimba is a great anvil. Should last you for the next 8-10 generations.

Might be able to use some of the information on pulse jet design. Obviously we don't want explosion, but some of the same principals apply.

It's actually a good thing, odds are the koawool you bough was not washed and by burning for the first time you remove a lot of impurities. Should make it much easier to coat(I have washed sheet). Always thought it would be a good idea to get the fluffy stuff for 2 inches or so, and then use some of the .120" sheet(sold in rolls as well) to line the inside and then dab on the coating. Strange, can't seem to locate plistex on the internet. Just remember when you put that door on the back, all the heat will then be trying to run out straight at you. Nice job btw.

Not sure how well you designed your intake for the venturi, but it can make a massive difference. Simply put, the best end design is a doughnut (torus). Split it in half like a bagle. Then lay it cut side down on the table. Looking down at it now, the air going into the center of that is going to flow better and have the least problems. And since you are only concerned with what goes into the hole, you only need the inside 1/2 of that form to make the air flow properly. The typical bell reducer is a poor choice, but can be made to work as you've already seen. You can look at any commercial central heat system using gas and see the same form. Now there is also a slight taper to the tube at times which you can research if really want to get a great burner design. In the meantime, eat the doughnut and ponder the possibilities. If I can remember later I'll send out a sheetmetal version that can be bent to tube for the proper flame holder and intake for a venturi. Just need to know the inside dimensions of the forge you are trying to heat and the insulation thickness. Really should make that into a program to save time.

Nice looking little forge. I can't quite tell from the pictures, but if you're not using itc-100 or one of the other dozen Zircon products, then you might want to think about picking up a bit. Much more efficient and helps the durability of the liner as well.

Haven't tried the JHm, so I can't give you advice on that one. But I have to say I love the Nimba. It is a beautiful piece of work. I'd be extremely surprised if you didn't fall in love with one the first time you tried it. Already have my old 200# fisher, next anvil I buy will be a Nimba.

Hard to know what you need without knowing what it is that you want to do. Generally it's good to have some tongs to hold hot things with of a few sizes(check the blueprints) might get a bit more ambitious and forge yourself a hammer. Might be nuts and try to forge a anvil. Kinda up to you. Definitely need punches and chisels and a hot cut for your anvil. In fact, hardy tools are a good thing to have, but it's only going to help you once you actually get an anvil so you know what size of hardy hole you have (square). Personally I'd take a look at all the blueprints over the next few weeks and see what you think you might need to make those projects. it really is up to what you think you want to accomplish.

Some great information. But what about a pattern? Something in the 150 year old range? I've got a piece I picked up, more than heavy enough for the job and dyed (for $10) I couldn't pass it up. What would have been used for eye holes? How about the string to attach it? or would a leather loop for the neck have been the norm? Hard to get it all answered when leather work is just as complicated as blacksmithing. I figure I'll ask and then when I get to that point I'll know the right questions to ask hopefully. Thanks for the help thus far, James

Easiest place to find refractory is normally a pottery supply. Though probably not the least expensive. You can always order it online, but I personally hate waiting and paying for high shipping charges. what's your time worth? I found a box on clearance at northern tool (harbour freight clone) for $8. Harder will hold up to beating, but is also a massive heat sink, taking longer to heat up to working temp. Softer is a better insulator and you can be up to heat within a minute or two, but the first time you use flux you'll watch it melt into a puddle. Some have settled for a piece of corrugated tin in a half moon shape with brick on the bottom and koawool in the roof. it doesn't have to be fancy at all. Make it cheap and simple and you won't have any reservations about tearing it apart and building a better moustrap when you know your needs better. Best to just get started with something that will definitely work so you don't get frustrated that you can't get it hot enough. Btw, congratulations on your new one. You'll be tired the rest of your life, so get used to it it's well worth it.

Welcome to the group. We're not really that bad about telling you what to do (i hope). I think it's more of a strong recommendation. You've enough experience under your belt to know your limits and be safe. Good luck and do feel free to ask questions. Don't forget the search button at the top of the page though, you might just find out it's already been answered and will save you waiting for a reply. Not familiar with Tim's clay, but clay is pretty easy to shape as long as it's not too wet. Shouldn't be much problem with that span. hooks: All made with 1/4 inch stock. Scroll on the left makes it appear heavier than it is, unbalanced. Corner is not squared. Center is a better scroll for the size stock. Right, is the third scroll I made, Took the round stock, squared it and then scrolled and bent on the 45. A quick twist, and then flatten the top and punch for a screw. And no I would not call any of these great examples(other than mistakes). Simply tinkering around while curing out the new forge. So don't stress out if it's not exactly what you pictured. Take your time, take as many heats as you need to and stop hitting your metal before it stops glowing.

This might get a few more responses from the bladesmith forum. We do have a great group of guys(and gals) here. Just know that when you ask a question to 5 people here you will get 7 answers. Lots of great information and there is almost always more than one good way to get the results you are wanting. I would personally make a positive stop to keep what i'm using to make the edge from possibly traveling past the part I want to be sharp, then it has no choice but to be where you put it. Good luck, James

I'd always heard there was someone living in Montana. Glad to have you aboard. We've got quite a crew here ranging from those that make a penny or two at it (though they'll deny it) to those just starting out. Hopefully you'll enjoy it here and teach us a trick or two. I'm sure we'll try to return the favor. Do us a favor and post pictures of what you can when you've the chance. Even those of us who have no clue what it really takes to make a good knife can still appreciate the beauty of the finished product. See ya around, James

I would recommend melting out what you've got and simply re-using it. Just plan for the fact that some may have worn away, so it might not fill up the entire cavity. The self lubricating properties of the babbitt are still there just below the surface. The original company magnolia, is still in business. I must have take the information home as I cannot find it now, but there are several grades of babbitt with varying uses. With the amount of research you've done i've no doubt you've noticed that. Good luck and let us know how it turned out. I'll try to get that information if I can find it before my wife packs it away.

Sorry to hear about the faire. You should think about setting up a knife show yourself. Some sort of juried show I would think would be appropriate, Might be able to talk some local sponsors into handling the fee's. As you've said, there is no serious show in the area. Of course i'm sure you have nothing else to do . Can't hurt to think about it.

Sounds interesting, though i'm not sure if buying a machine would be cheaper than getting it from a local supply. I could see it if you're off in the outback. Just like electricity, hard to beat on-grid prices. If it was cheaper it would be common I'd think. Only on a rare occasion do you find something that useful not already being used. Hijack: anyone here ever seen some of the old acetylene generators that were marketed to blacksmiths? Why are they not used anymore?