larrynjr

That would be fun, other than the classes that I've paid to attend, I've not made it to any other blacksmithing functions in the area or worked with or around another smith. I finally joined NWBA but won't be able to make it to the spring conference.

James, Mende is from Romania. Probably cost $500 to ship that anvil.

Welcome from another Washingtonian, just a hop, skip and a long drive from here! Been to Winthrop many times on my way to Washington Pass and Liberty Bell spire for rock climbing. This is indeed a great community for sharing! Larry

I agree with Pete, you should stick with QBooks, take a course or have your accountant show you how do use it better. It is much more functional than quicken and will grow with your business needs.

I really like the rose demo board, very usable just looking at it! The wizard is very cool too but I don't think I could make one just from looking at that one....................YET!!!

Here is one of the best posts on the site, showing the treadle hammer that Apprenticeman made. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/treadle-hammer-build-pictures-4338/ IForgeIron sells the plans for that one. How to build a Tredle Hammer*-*I Forge Iron - Blacksmithing and Metalworking

Welcome to IFI, there is good company and great info to be found here. Enjoy!

Would a base that high interfer with treadle pedal fully descending?

I believe the safety cable was to keep the snapped spring from slamming against a body part, not to keep the hammer from dropping. The cable has to be long enough to allow the hammer to fully descend when striking.

I think I had them quote 12" x 20" by 1/4" It was around $12 just for that. I'm thinking I should go to 1/2 " for the plate though.

The only thing really missing from the part list is the base plate. But that wasn't too difficult to guesstimate. I faxed in the part list to my steel supplier and it was under $150 for all the steel.

Actually that BP has been removed and you now have to purchase the plans through the IFI website. I have done this and think that other than the photo copier quality of the pictures, the plans are worth the $20. Knowing exactly what sizes of steel that you need and a drawn diagram of the device make a world of difference.

Thanks for the pictures Petersenj20 and everyone else for their suggestions. I'm not sure which way I'll go yet for a band saw but when I finally make up my mind, I'll post back to brag about it!

That's a great looking hammer Chris, let us know how it works for you.

It's funny though, it was all those sword fantasies that I read growing up that kept a long held spark of interest in blacksmithing that got me to take that first course a few years ago. Now I find I'm not so interested in making swords. I've made one short sword out of mild steel but don't really have the interest in making any now. I'm more interested in practical items. Making tools, household items.............

I will admit that it is from fantasy stories that I've always heard of it called a bloodgroove. I've never really done any research to find out differently.

Welcome to the IFI, glad to have you here.

I'd like to see pictures of some of the mounts that people have made for their saws.

Very nice! Now is this the shop where you work or in your own shop?

It takes lots of practice to get consistant results for making tongs, making anything for that matter. My instructor's take on it, was to make 50 copies of whatever you are making, throw away the first 45 and make 50 more based on the best 5 of the first batch. Repeat. Once you've done this about 5000 times you can consider that item mastered. Repeat the process for everything you want make in a consistant manner. About 30 more and I'll have my first 50 tongs made!

It is quite possibly that it is forged steel or at least cast. One of the items I picked up at the scrap yard last visit was a large hook, it has the words; Forged in USA, right on the side of the hook. I think your 1000# + crane hook would make a great anvil substitute.

propane forges do not have to be very fancy to get up to a welding heat. All the forges at Jerry Culberson's shop are built on this style and he does a lot of forge welding. Here is a picture of the forge I used while I was there and he used that forge in this picture of him welding a collar for a chisel handle. Inside are one or more fire bricks and a refractory blanket, outside is just firebricks. Gas supply a simple copper tube and a hair dryer for air supply. My forge is based on this design also. It can be used for multiple smiths to heat stock front and back or pass a long piece through to heat the middle.

It's called a blood groove. It's not so much to allow the blood to pour out but to keep the sword from getting stuck inside the body. (i.e. quick removal so you can stick the next guy!)

Thanks everyone, that's what I was wanting to hear. I check on the blade size and make sure I can get them readily before commiting to the N.T. brand saw. I liked the Milwaukee brand one but it cost as much as a table type band saw.