larrynjr

How about with a O/A cutting torch? It's not blacksmithing but it would probably be faster with less potential to twist or distort the tubing.

Part of the reason I made mine the shape I did was to have a flat area to hammer on, directly above the stake shaft. The rounded heads of many of these other types puts the downward force past the center of the stake shaft, which with the cheaper aluminum version cause them to bend easily. Not an issue with the steel ones! Many of the places I camp have river rock just under the surface so having a stake that will drive straight down without bending is going to be a plus. I'm leaving to go camping on Sat. so I'll let you know how these stand up to being hammered on.

I use this type of tool................... Sorry Jerry, I just couldn't resist!

I'm not sure, guess I'll find out when I use them. They were reheated after forming and allowed to slow cool, except the tip was hardened.

I'm getting ready to do some camping soon and have gotten tired of all the flimsy, plastic and thin aluminum tent pegs that are the norm and decided to make these based on some long nails with plastic heads I've seen used for tent stakes. They are roughly 8" or 20cm long. I used some "scrap" steel from my pile that had once been part of a metal bunk bed frame. They are not exactly the same but close enough for a first batch and for actually use, they will do the job!

great work John.

Jonesport Wood Co. Dave M. ought to be familiar with these folks, last time I was in Maine I visited the Hull's Cove store and they had just tons of hand plane tools and blades for wood. Their prices were fairly reasonable (2 years ago) You might want to check them out, for replacing some of your tools. They have an ebay store but I would call them and get some of their used items, their "unused" items on ebay seem way pricey to me. The number / letter punch set and wooden mallet I bought were very reasonable.

Like Thomas and Frosty, I smith as a hobby because I enjoy it. I used to work at what I loved (kayaking, sea kayak guide) then it gradually became a job and I not only didn't love it anymore, I basically don't do it anymore. I started rock climbing for fun instead. Now that I'm older and have more responsibilities (kids) and fewer climbing partners, I've turned to smithing. Less dangerous (in proportion) and I can do it by myself! Even with my new Nimba anvil and Hofi hammer I probably have less than $10,000 into my shop.

Thanks for keeping us updated Philip, glad to know that you are doing well and life is getting liveable again for those in your area. God Bless!

More Robert A. Heinlein-isms; "An armed society is a polite society. Manners are good when one may have to back up his acts with his life." "Be wary of strong drink. It can make you shoot at tax collectors... and miss." "I am free, no matter what rules surround me. If I find them tolerable, I tolerate them; if I find them too obnoxious, I break them. I am free because I know that I alone am morally responsible for everything I do." "Never insult anyone by accident."

actually there is no solder in the equation at all at this point. I removed the solder from the original jet hole and am using that jet in this setup.

So here is what I ended up doing with that piece of pipe. I tried soldering it but wasn't satisfied with the results so decided to give this a go instead. I drilled the air pipe all the way through then passed the jet pipe all the way through so that the original hole is centered (more or less) and the pipe itself acts as a gas / air mixer. So the net effect is that I'm running at a higher pressure, about 10lbs. and should be lower volumne but I have no way to acurately guage that. The flame torch as it burns inside the forge is blue and the forge is a bright orange heat with little dragonsbreath unless I close the air intake on the fan all the way. The air intake is closed 4/5th of the way. I didn't have time to try it last night but I'm guessing to get that white hot welding heat again, I would need to either increase the pressure to increase the volumne of gas or to enlarge the jet hole to get more volumne. Overall I'm pleased with the current results, as I'm getting a more consistent fire.

Thanks Frosty, I'll give it a try and let you all know how it goes!

So I went to the hardware store and picked up a new piece of copper pipe with an end cap to replace my existing steel pipe with no cap. BUT I got ahead of myself and drilled the hole for the gas without checking for proper placement and made the hole in the middle of the pipe and it needs to be closer to the cap to actually be inside the gas / air intake pipe of the forge. I've taken pictures so you can see what I've been using and how large the original pipe oriface is / was compared to what the new one will be. Would it be safe to solder the small hole that's in the wrong place closed and drill a new hole closer to the cap it would there be too much pressure that might blow the solder out and cause explosion issues?

I still have a good supply of new steel that I bought a few month's ago that I've barely made a dent in, so I've been holding off on buying more "pre-used" steel.

The opening for the gas is fairly large; 1/4" maybe? The overall design is based on the hand drawn plans given out by Jerry Culberson at his course at Old Cedar Forge. I guess I need to start playing with that end if I want to achieve more control over the fire. I forged tonight for almost 3 hours. I did increase the gas pressure a bit and decrease the air flow which lowered the overall temp a bit but I'll figure out something for the gas pipe to reduce the output hole. I have a 25gal. propane tank that I use and with the old regulator it would still start to frost up as it got empty. With the old regulator the flow would decrease after an hour or so even with a full tank. Depending on how much or little the volumne decreases as the tank gets empty using the new regulator I may spring for a second 25gal. tank and use them in tandem.

I purchase scrap from the steel yard at $.15 a pound. It's been awhile so it's probably more now. I keep all my steel in a pile near my work table and forge.

I would say it's scaling in the forge, it doesn't matter if I'm using flux or not. As soon as I take it from the fire and hammer on it, large chunks of scale start flying off. When you say richer, I'm guessing you mean more gas less air. I'll have to play with it to see if I can get the right combo of air to gas to still get welding heat but without the dragonsbreath 2 feet out of the forge.

I would have to say, YES!!! it is working properly. A very high heat output that makes forging easier. Though there is a higher amount of scale due to the increase in air flow. I just need to remember that not everything needs to be welding heat hot before I hammer it!

It's hard to tell from the pictures but it appears that the handle end is not champhered, (edges beveled) you might want to consider doing that to make a more comfortable handle for yourself and anyone who might be using it.

I looked at the old one before taking the picture but didn't see any marks that ID'd it one way or the other. It's been so long since I got that one, I forget exactly where I did get it, so it's quite possible it was from a coleman stove. I know it was hard to get a consistant flame in it and after an hour or so, when the tank got colder the volumne would decrease significantly. The new one I ran for at least a hour with no sign of decreased volumne. I guess I'll just have to run it and see how slow or quickly I go through this tank. Good thing I filled it recently!