Chinobi

mitch, thank you for the link! however for it to work it has to be www.minnesotafarriers.com/Hammer.htm otherwise it throws a 404 :)

awesome Frosty, thank you, i will pass that along! Fe, no biting necessary :) thank you, and you are correct on all counts, it is being installed in Adams Forge and they need to be able to track the hammer's power usage separately.

Thank you Judson, that will help a lot! they need to ship it in as well, so the shipping height and weight will be very useful :)

no data, im assuming that it is 'stock' until I get a reply to the same question from the owner. I haven't been able to find any spec's online for the beast either, the Nazel site only has info for the 5B and 6B, and I have been unable to locate anything here, on anvilfire, or otherwise that has motor size listed.

Hey all, I am trying to help rough out some installation cost numbers for a power hammer installation at the school I attend and I have an electrical question. They are bringing in a Nazel 2B and the building owners are requiring a dedicated electric meter for it, but I have no clue what size meter such a device would necessitate, so I cant look up a price for it. Does anyone know what size meter a 2B would need just to run itself? if I am omitting any necessary information please let me know, only thing I have to go on is 'two piece Nazel 2B'. Many thanks! :)

That's what I have been taught.

hahahaha, I read that as chisels MADE of stone and not knowing if they were hardened or not and I was about to call troll on it :) I will add my support for the sucker rod tooling crowd, all of my kit has been forged Aspery style (guess why...) from sucker rod, and it has held up well with the business end being hardened and tempered back to roughly straw (give or take). I have had to fix some of the smaller cross section ones as I used(abused?) them, but that's more my fault than the tool. tools from mild will be temporary, tools from medium carbon/alloy will last longer but may still require some maintenance, tools from high alloy (as I understand it, I don't own any) are more expensive and more difficult to forge, but if used properly will probably outlast you.

Not.....yet.....? :-D

lol, if watching a small tower of coins melt into ruin reminds you of making mokume then we have a lot in common XD

Happy to see that you picked that job up and it looks like the customer should be well satisfied :) Jim I believe you would want a large quantity of sparks, and the presence of the secondary starbursts after a brief travel time that is customarily indicative of high carbon. the other thing you can do is just straighten a piece out, harden it, and start striking on it with a flint and see how readily it sparks once you get down through the scale and de-carb.

Congratulations! :) I think it was Curly who made a wooden hammer and anvil for his little one to learn on, might be a little safer than metal for the first few years! hope you can still find the time to keep up the craft and still play daddy at the same time :)

Is this from that commission request a few weeks ago? Some of them look kind of challenging to hold, but as always they all look great and are very well made :)

yea, I was kind of concerned that it would be a common color, but I had no time, and its my favorite color :) once it gets narrowed down to one of the folks marked with the color you can usually tell by inspection if it belongs to you or not.

Thank you Glenn, nice to see the CBA flag flying here :)

yep, good to go. you have a very well put together website and your work is top notch too :) I still have yet to complete my variants of the coin ring you shared a while ago..... all in due time....

having read the tips and suggestions from other people about marking your tools prior to conferences and get togethers I went to the hardware store and bought some neon green spray paint and a roll of green duct tape for the purpose. the tape sucked on a scale unimaginable so I just sprayed everything up and tried to get two coats on before I had to throw everything in the trunk :) I saw several other smiths at the conference with rather elaborate color schemes and things like argyle tape too! I don't look at it as a theft deterrent really, it would be pretty unlikely that someone would be so unscrupulous as to swipe your tools maliciously, and if that's the case they are probably going to disappear into a bag in short order. its more useful for rounding kit up at the end of the day. I would have walked away with out one of my bending forks and my scrolling wrench if they hadn't been marked. one of the conference organizers was walking by me as I was working and exclaimed "Hey! YOURE bright green!" and handed me my fork :) and one of my friends from LA came up at lunch on the last day after I had already packed up all my gear and was getting ready to head out and handed me the twisting wrench I had left on the vice table for both of us to use. so it really does come in handy, feel free to get creative with how you do it but knowing what is yours in a sea of similar looking items is a godsend! :)

your link is 404'd btw, looks like a bunch of the subsequent text got appended into the link URL, iv had that happen trying to post links from my phone here. looks like a great opportunity for somebody in your region though :) good luck!

the old single burner NC Forge Whisper baby's that the school used to run would get about 8-10 hours, 1.5 to 2 classes worth, on a 20 lb tank. the new twin burner chili habaneros....not so much :) had to upgrade them all to 40's and we still run into problems sometimes with them freezing up. but I gotta agree with spanky, 4 hours seems MIGHTY low. of course your setup will be different from anybody elses, and I am also assuming that you are referencing a single burner.

I missed that before and I agree with Jim, that's brilliant and going on the 'inspiration' list! :)

Yea I'm loving the simplicity of it all, of course my imagined(pipe dream) version has a set screw to catch the groove of the bits, or even a spring backed ball bearing detent :p but that might end up being a version 2.0 kind of feature! I would crack into it sooner, but if I start on random machining projects when I *should* be doing wedding planning tasks, my fiancé is likely to turn the hammer on ME! So my shop is kind of on ice until mid august :'( I did already tell my dad to start saving all blown out bits for me after you put this up initially though :-D

skimming through my followed threads and had a question about this particular gem for you Jim. do you think something like this could be used as a one-tool-to-hold-them-all for chisels and punches for engraving and chasing/repousse? would scavenged Phillips/flat head/other quick change type drill bits be good enough steel to cannibalize and repurpose into cutting tools? (largely non-ferrous, but steel would also be nice) I think the receiving hole in the shaft will need to be a pretty tight tolerance fit to keep the bit from wobbling or bouncing laterally when struck at angles other than vertically down into the work, no? I don't think I will be able to do anything with this information for at least 3 months if not more, but I didn't want to forget between now and then :) it would be a lot nicer to carry one tool holding shaft and a bunch of little interchangeable bits than a whole bedroll of full length tools to go along with my portable ball vice.

oh man that looks fun! XD

Thanks! looks like another good option for material :) I haven't seen anything that resembles the Blue Collar Supply model locally, but I will keep an eye out for similar.

Thanks, I usually end up buying non-ferrous stuff online, but I still prefer actually being able to pick things up in person when buying, rather than looking at a stock photo of XYZ and some listed dimensions. Is that a particular place or thing, or just a recommendation to not buy non ferrous from a steel yard? :)

Very fine work! I have never been partial to the chainmaille styling but they look well executed. I agree the scrollwork flows very nicely and they are very pretty :) The 'free machining' alloys are very sneaky, I can't but brass or bronze from the steel supply near me because they are all machine alloys :'(