thingmaker3

I put a soapstone mark on my hammer. I put the hammer against the edge of the anvil. Then I line up the hot steel off the edge of the anvil with the mark on the hammer. Then hit.

Don't mind Ol' Thomas. His tea was probably cold that morning.

What is the plan for including ferrosilicate slag?

25 kilos are about 55 pounds. A tenner is about fifteen US dollars. You're paying about 25% more for coke than Thomas Powers is for coal. What does feed corn go for in the UK? Not sure what the math is for declining seal population, but I'd love to know how seal blubber burns in a forge. B)

For the sake of argument, let's assume the estimate of $1000 for a 186# usable condition name-brand anvil is accurate. This would make the 100# anvil worth about $540 IF it is name brand and in usable condition. Difference is $460. Does an 80# bag of coke go for $60 where you live? If so, the deal is a fair deal. Not a great deal or a poor deal, but an equitable deal. I think you would be wise to keep your Peter Wright. Just smile sagely and tell 'em you're not done with it yet. A tool that feels good to use has more than just monetary value.

I respectfully dissent. Whether this is a good deal or not will depend on the quality of the 100 pound anvil. Does it have excellent rebound or is it "dead?" Is it in great shape or is it an ugly hunk of crap? And very very importantly: will you like working on the 100 pounder as much as you like working on your PW? Have a look at this beauty: http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G8148-100-lb-Anvil/dp/B0000DD714 Also: Anvils are worth more in some areas and less in others. Did you get a smokin' deal on that Peter Wright? Here in the PNW it might be worth as much as $550. In Ohio it might only go for $200. What is the going rate in YOUR location?

A water-cooled tuyere is handy in an industrial size forge. No need for water cooling in a smaller forge. Many hobbyists work in old rivet forges, which are not water cooled. Others make small forges from brake drums or wash tubs. In chapter 9 of Smith's Work Paul Hasluck describes a small forge one can make for themselves. Have you attempted to contact anyone in the British Artist Blacksmiths Association?

Hi, Jake. The temper colors are caused by a very thin layer of oxide(s) on the steel. The color changes as the layer gets thicker. Thickness depends on three things: 1) how hot we get the steel, 2) how long we keep it hot, and 3) the composition of the steel.

Rule of thumb: the lower the carbon, the easier it is to work the steel. Mild steel is fine for a good many working things. Hinges, bottle openers, hasps, fireplace tools, skillets, hooks, coat-racks, lamps, shackles, ice-cream scoops, dice, furniture, gates, fences, spiral staircases, and yes it is also suitable for "decoration" whatever that may be. You'll want more carbon for anything needing extra toughness, strength, or wear resistance. Your forge design should be anything that won't burn or melt, and will get enough of your steel or iron or bronze or aluminum or whatever hot enough to do whatever it is you want to do. A hair dryer will be more than enough for some things (knives, forks, trammels) and not nearly enough for others (too small for making your own anvil, for example). For some work, a couple fire-bricks and a propane torch are enough. I'm not sure I know what a "traditional" setup is. I don't think there is any such animal. My history books (tiny though the collection may be) show a plethora of different setups. Folk in the Congo had different traditions than those in Korea or Finland. All could make big swords with small fires & tiny anvils. I started in an 8' x 8' corner of my garage. Other smiths have started with a quarter as much area.

Hardie hole dimensions should always be considered nominal rather than actual. Don't expect a hardie hole to be square or aligned either! I would modify the shanks on the tools.

May well have been the sulper instead of the oxygen. I know it was for tying up some kind of unwanted gunk. :)

You think this is bad? You should've been here back in '08 for the infamous hammer-handling thread. Speaking of hammers, I'm going to be trying to make an eye punch this weekend! Should be fun!

Use gold bullets?

Darned expensive stuff at nearly a buck and a half a pound! I pay $0.35 per pound for steel at the scrapyard. $0.75 per pound gets me 4140 or 5160 (and I know which) remnants from the suspension shop.

Grade 60 has approximately 60 ksi tensile strength. Grade 80 has approximately 80 ksi tensile strength. These are performance standards, not composition standards. Composition can be anything. Rebar can be made from mild steel with stainless jacket. Rebar can be made from fiberglass. Acceptable working knives have indeed been made from grade 80 rebar. As for manganese, it can increase hardenability (but not maximum attainable hardness) depending on how much is added. More often, i, it is added in wee ammounts to de-oxidize the molten steel.

Jewelry artist Lola Brooks uses gold solder (which contains gold) to fasten her stainless steel pieces together. (It is popular for jewelry artists to challenge the material hierarchy these days.) http://lolabrooks.com/ See also: http://www.centercross.com/shop/damascustutorial.htm for melting metal into cable. Might work as a fictional firearm, though I surely won't be trying this for a real one. Have you tried asking this question on any gunsmiths' forums?

Any permitting requirements are strictly local. Always check with YOUR fire marshal. The following is from the NFPA: Buildings frequented by the public are limited to cylinders with a propane capacity of 1 pound. The total quantity stored is limited to 200 pounds of propane. Buildings not frequented by the public are limited to a maximum quantity of 300 pounds of propane. The cylinder size is not restricted. Storage in "Special Buildings", meeting the requirements of Chapter 7 of NFPA 58 is limited to 10,000 pounds of propane.

Are you in New Zealand? England? South America? Rhode Island? Bangalore? Tibet? How far are you willing to travel? What do you want to learn? Art? Architectural? Industrial?

This may be of some help: http://www.hamgil.com/assets/documents/MSDS-TD-June%2021-07/TD-TN5.pdf The fellows over in Japan like to mix about 1 part clay with 1 part fine sand with 1 part charcoal. They add more charcoal ofr the edge coat and add iron oxide (rust) for the spine coat. Wear one of those N-95 respirators! Silicosis is no fun.

I found a record of a 16" gladius (short sword) and a 20" main gauche (dagger). I suggest simply calling it "Bob" to avoid confusion. :P

Never put a hot tool back in the rack! This was one of the very first safety protocols I was taught.

Let's see, half days forging PLUS getting the job to start with PLUS design time PLUS delivery PLUS other time... Looks like about $5 per hour. For skilled labor. Tell ye what, how about you come work for me? I'll pay you 6$ per hour under the table. (I'd have to pay you $8.40 per hour according to Oregon law, if you wanted things like workman's comp, unemployment insurance, and other bottom-level protections.) I'll even let you sleep on a cot in the corner of the shop. How 'bout it? Very nice towell holder, by the way.

If the hammer weighs half as much, it has to move 41% faster to have the same energy. If it weighs a third as much, it has to move 73% faster to have the same energy. So, who has a stopwatch and a really good eye?B)

Took me six hours to make my second pair. My first, well we don't talk about those. You done good, Bill!

The motion detector units, also called "P.I.R. Detectors," are available separately. They include instructions for hooking up. This is very similar to wiring up a switch. If you have any doubt whether you can connect these safely, please consult a liscensed electrician. Depending on your local rules, you might need to get the installation inspected, too - or pull a permit ahead of time.