Black Frog

:) I travel quite a bit, and wherever I go I search around as much as I can. Sometimes it seems like you're almost tripping over anvils found around, other times the river runs dry....... Agreed that it was done hot, that is a large stamp! And deep. My curiousity about this stamping is peaked because I've seen lots of inspector markings on the sides/ends of anvils. All sorts of letters, numbers, symbols, etc. Most all of which are not too large, maybe 3/4" tall at the most. This is the first time I've seen a large surface area stamp like this on any anvil. I didn't measure it, but guessing maybe 2" square? First time I've seen a stamp on the bottom of an anvil, and the first time I've seen a stamp that was this deep with this large of surface area.

Found a neat little 77# PW at an out-of-the-way roadside stand. In extremely nice shape, this is a pre-"ENGLAND" stamp vintage. When I was cleaning it up I noticed an odd stamping on the bottom of the anvil. Not on the lower part of the foot, but actually on the bottom of the anvil, the underside of the base. In all the PW's I've looked at, I've not seen something like this before. I can't remember seeing much of any stampings on the bottom of anvils. This a rather large stamp too, and that much depth of stamping with that large of a surface area, it really took some doing I would guess. I haven't seen any mention of stampings like this that I can find. ....but I suppose not a lot of people bother to check the bottom of an anvil. I haven't been able to check any other PW's than the pre-ENGLAND variety, but none of the pre-ENGLAND PW's I've looked at have anything like this on the bottom of the anvil. Any guesses? Reject stamp? Anvil has very nice rebound and good ring, everything seems solid. Maybe some mark below the X-stamp too? Can't tell.

Yup, Duluth! I happened to be traveling to that area late last week. ......as long as I was there... ;) Unfortunately the seller had recently painted the anvil and stand. That was done on top of some older paint layers.... Took quite a bit of cleaning time to get it looking nice.

There have been several PW's listed here that don't show the name stamping very well, but are identifiable. Yours is a later one that has the "England" stamp on it, most likely made after 1911 or so.

Maybe Josh will have some info on how many different stand sizes they made. Or how many base sizes there were. Or did each anvil have its own varying casting size?

This was too neat of a combo to pass up, and at a price that was way too good to pass up. Before this I had only seen pictures of a Fisher anvil stand. Seller said he believes that they have been in his family since new. Fisher 100# anvil has 1927 on it, I'm assuming the anvil and stand were bought at the same time. I really like the matching bolt lug holes on the anvil & stand, cool stuff. Also the bolt holes that allow you to bolt it to the floor. The stand is quite beefy all on its own.

A36 is rather a crap shoot as to what it may be from piece to piece. 1018 has some specifications and standards to it....

PM sent...

....well.... I kinda want to be the coyote.....

Never seen a place to buy them specifically for the blower, I've had to make them. You could use a dowel to make them, but I fear it will wear quickly simply using a dowel with a hole. Many of the original wood handles had a thin steel collar sleeve on each end so that the handle had protection from wear of millions of revolutions.... many of which are still in very good shape after 100 years of use. If you can save the original collars from the worn out handle, you might be able to reinstall them in the new wood handle you make. You can make your own steel inserts too from thin-walled tubing, and then flare the ends. For the OCD who want to get fancy with blower handles, I made a few of these out of brass. With steel sleeve inserts too. :)

Now I just need to find the matching ones that hang from the ceiling via magnets..... ;)

face first, of course! The only thing that would've made this better was to find it still in the crate from the manufacturer. ....along with the Giant Rubber Bands to the right. And maybe some earthquake pills, iron birdseed, dehydrated boulders, or do-it-yourself tornado kit. ..

A new(?) 100# ACME anvil. I'm wondering if this is still actually brand new. I cannot find much evidence of hammer marks on it anywhere. Also note the upside down “1” stamp in the weight indication. Edges seem to be in pristine condition, and face rebound is excellent. This ACME anvil was made in 1907 by Hay-Budden. Looks like the original factory grind marks are still visible on the side of the steel plate. I've not seen many ACME anvils floating around, but I had I passed one up recently at an auction when the price went too high. When I was a kid I watched the Looney Tunes and Merrie Melodies cartoons faithfully every Saturday morning. I think I almost know every Bugs Bunny and Road Runner cartoon by heart. When I saw this for sale, I couldn't resist the memories ACME anvils had brought me when I was a kid. Can you believe I bought this from a recycling yard employee, someone had turned this in for scrap. After doing some searching, I found one other person who had a 100# ACME anvil with the same number “1” stamped upside down for the weight indication. That anvil’s serial number is only 146 away from this one. Makes me wonder if these two ACME anvils could’ve been made the same day(s?), and the person stamping them had the “1” upside down in the stamp holder without knowing it, or without caring enough to correct it….. Of course with the anvil, there was the master plan to go with it… And then wouldn't you know it, a while later I came across a "ACME" sign... How could I say no to this?

......not normally. Logo and stamping is generally facing towards you with horn facing right. At least all the PW's, HB's, A&H's I've encountered are that way. I've seen Soderfors with the weight stamping on the opposite side (horn left).

Style of the feet/base would point to English make as well...

Fantastic pictures! For getting the die block keys out, how about welding some 1/2" threaded rod onto the ends. Then using some thick walled pipe with a plate washer and nut to pop them lose?

I completely agree. Cleanup, oil, and appreciate the life it had. While it may be past the state of normal use, it certainly is not past being fully appreciated!

That is beautiful! Very nice.

I would love to see more close-up pics of the story board procedure!

Should have a serial number on the foot that will allow the date to be determined. Pictures of codition would be swell.

Eco, Does your PW have the stamped "England" on it? There's a year when that stamp was added. 1910-1911 I think?

....nice! Gotta remember that.

Anvils are around, but I'm more surprised at the huge spectrum of prices. Deals can be found with some work, but others are willing to pay TOP dollar for anvils. Auction I was just at had a very, very nice 348# Peter Wright. The winner was willing to pay $1430 ($1300 + 10% buyer's fee), or $4.11 per pound. Wow.

I have not had experience with exactly what you're doing, but when tightening or tensioning something with an array of fasteners, I was always taught the parent rule is to criss-cross the pattern of tightening. If you go in a circular pattern, you end up applying lots of tension/stress to one side before the other side gets any application of force. This does not lend itself to keeping things consistent through the entire package.... Don't know if that helps any, but wish you the best of luck.

Jim- I am relentless, but for good deals or unique items only.... I got a few more honeys in the works too. ;) Josh, Here's a closeup of the marks I was referring to. They seem to be too nicely formed to be random molding blobs. And considering how nicely molded all the other sides are, I thought these might have meant something. They are in a horizontal row: "I", "LII", and possibly a bit more to the right, a four-corner(?) symbol of some sort ? They are all nicely placed the same height off the bottom of the anvil, and symmetrically spaced across the side. My other question is about the ATKINS label. The other Fisher anvil like this I've seen (from 1905) has "E.C.ATKINS&CO." on the side as opposed to simply "ATKINS" on this anvil. Was that a year-to-year change of labeling, or was it dependant on the size of the anvil?