Steve Sells

I wont comment on a price for another to sell their stuff, sorry, that's a call I doubt anyone can do for you.

I will comment about a statement on your web site. you posted a folder stating you used a copper and nickel core wire. where did you get that? if its Electrical its copper clad Aluminum, not a nickel core. if it is a copper plated nickel, I would like to get some.

I would buy them. Nice work

I never realized this. I always thought those twin breakers were just to save space. I'll try to keep this in mind. One idea for one of those dual 20amp breakers was to put half outlets on 1 20 amp side, and another half outlets on the other 20 amp breaker. Now that might be overkill.. but if I had like tv, some lights, and some tools running on one side and I started doing something on the other side (or a friend did) it wouldn't trip a 20amp. Maybe that is overkill. I don't know. I know it's rather hard to trip a 20amp breaker with common shop tools. What do you think? overkill? or smart planning?

I still can and do buy wholesale, so I have 3/4 inch conduit and every receptacle is on its own 20 amp breaker, Commercial grade rec. But I spent less than most would doing it with residential grade and romex.

My Bader B-3 is 1.5 Hp, and I have 1Hp for band saw, you get the idea. Many of my machines need 12 to 17 amps each, so I did that for when apprentices are around no one is tripping them, because they are all separate, still I only ran a 100 amp panel because I rarely have more than any 2 machines running at once.

I have the Co detector, but the alarm in the house is a great idea, I should add that Lucky that when I buried the 2 inch line for power to my shop, I also added a 1 inch conduit 12 inches above that for data (phone, intercom, security) so I have low voltage with the 2 lines of Cat6 I ran already in there.
Great Idea, thanks

As a master Electrician in IBEW 305, and former contractor, I have to comment on the twin breakers I see on the photo. While the separate channels can deal with full the rated load on their own, if all of these are being used the total output will be limited, IE a bank of twin 20 amp breakers will not do well if they are all running at 20 amp loads.

We only use those twins when the panel is full and waiting to be upgraded soon, or when rarely used items need individual protection. I would change them out to single breakers, lose the tiwns.

Don't worry about the romex, some areas require conduit many do not, as long as its protected from the abuse and sunlight you are fine.

AISI 1060, is a Good Baseline for longer Blades and Will make a Good Hamon. 1075 Too, a litle lesh flashy, but more defined though.
W1 Will be better then Any AISI 10XX Series (Even then 1095, because it has More then 0,8% Carbon wich , by logic doenst allow it to fully harden , and makes it a bit messy to Heat Treat when it Come to Long Blades, and you have very litle time when it Comes to Quenching Temps)
I wish you The best Luck. I wouldn't mind some W1 myself
Regards

Maybe english isnt your first language. but could you clarify what you meant by the statement of "over .8% carbon wont fully harden?" As I totally disagree.

In the industrial situation where my father's shop used them through the 80's, I was told that using SS for tanks would contaminate the salts over time. It is possible that there are new mixes where that is no longer an issue.

Ge-wizz guys, he just got here and made his first post, and already you are plotting to drink his keg o beer

Welcome to the forum

Hey Kam, welcome, if ya ever get over to Ft Wayne, stop in

you should read up a but about salt pots, first they can be very dangerous, even with proper precautions, like near moisture is a big no-no, also NO stainless steel, Mild steel tubes.

Gene,

JPH has been adding nickel strands to his cable for centuries, he may have mentioned that in one of his videos also.

I missed something, WHY cant one heat treat after welding in the cross pc's ?

Steve Sells, Shihan
No Tora Ryu Jujitsu, among other things

just my 2 cents, if it IS real O-2 then I am interested, DIB's !!!

very nice work

Mr NAZ.. how hot to you get the wood before waxing? hot to the touch should burn the handle bad, how do you warm the handles with out burning them? this IS the knife section, and I do not advise waxing the blades. on the other hand if our poster was not paying attention and posted his query here, rather than where it would apply to ironwork...

this IS the knife section. With normal paste wax there is no need to heat the finished handle. using bees wax you may wish to warm ( 100F or so) to get it more pliable. do NOT mix it with any hydrocarbons first.

Nice bodkin, but I have to agree that broadheads are a faster bleed out, I totally believe in a clean fast kill. Remember, just because we can make one, doesn't mean its the best choice to use it for this. But still you made a very nice bodkin, your father will be proud when you show him.

I am currently a IBEW master electrician, I used to own my own contracting company for 16 years. Got my first license in 1984.

I hear so many people talk about how easy it is to run their own wiring, But if its so easy for anyone... why are there so many screwed up things I have to fix? My area has serious code enforcement, I know of many area where no one cares. Here locally there was a fire from a self installed non-permitted work, and their company did not pay, as he violated the rules. They didn't have to put exclusions in their paperwork, as its a local law already. In many cases here there are exclusions for a person to be able pull a permit for them to do their own work, after showing they have the correct knowledge to do it. the inspectors are there to make sure it IS done correctly. After all the electrical grid is connected to everyone, and SOME problems can effect everyone else on your substation grid. ( think of a neighbor doing his own plumbing and crossing a line for drinking water with gray water...)

I personally wont warranty anything someone else messes with, if they screw it up they can pay to get it fixed. I don't have a problem with a INS company feeling the same way.

It isn't just about a building department collecting money.

For your sake I hope you hire a real electrician. There are many reasons for a 4 to 5 year apprenticeships before being allowed to take the licensee exam.

220V is the name plate minimum voltage for the welder, not what is available from the home service. Also since voltage drop is always a factor, no one can tell you what size wire to run with out knowing the distance or other factors effecting this voltage drop to your service receptacle.

If you want to trust the guy making $8 a hour at the box store, rather than a electrician, fine. Don't forget the building permit for a new install. Home owner Insurance companies dont normally pay for damages from a home owner doing un-licensed installs. Be careful

Don't bother to try a HT first you are not able to with out building special equipment, also you said its only a wall hanger. Anneal well after forging so it doesn't shatter if it is some how dropped or even used, and your good. As for the rest... well read more :D

Steel is not as good a conductor as some like to think, remember, if not, how could we hold bare handed, the end of a 18 inch rod while forging the other end? that's because it does take some time to equalize the temps. Not long, but there is a time delay between getting the inner section as hot as the outer portion.

lol...free coal....
the idea with annealing the steel rod is to make core for electromagnets...by annealing the steel should become softer and more ferrous...ok not more ferrous but will make a stronger magnet? it's difficult to find low carbon steel...iron...do you foresee flaws in my plan?

First a few things:
1) It will become softer, because that is the job of annealing, not that 1018 will be much different either annealed or after a dunk in super quench.
2) Ferro is from the Latin for Iron, you cant make it more so, it either is or it isn't containing Iron.
3) It is not hard to locate low carbon steel.
4) To increase the magnetic capability of steel you need Silicon as an addition to increase the conductivity.

I don't know where you got your information, but please do yourself a favor and back up and start over, with real facts not rumors. Jumping in and trying to make blades at day one is not going to help you get good blades later, learn the basics first then progress to specialized areas of smithy.

<snip>
I also keep forgetting that the data sheets are for a "standard" cross section (1 inch of what profile?) The standard cross section is not mentioned in most online data sheets adding to our (my) confusion
Phil

1 inch is 1 inch, its all about heat penetration, so carbon and carbides all can get into solution. 1 x 103 or 1 x 2 its got to get past that outer layer to heat through to the core :)

You haven't mentioned whether you're going to put an anvil shaped cutout in the door or if it'll be a one or two holer. . .

Some people think a 2 hole unit is for 2 people, while in fact it is good for those that get sick and have it "coming out both ends", a problem that is hard to address with modern toilet facilities. Many times the only option is to also use the bath tub, making me wonder: have we really progressed. :D

Photos are up and are both outrageous and awsome. It would appear there are 13,575 photos on 905 pages. I for one couldn't look at them all but it is well worth checking out at least a portion.

Still no pictures are showing up KTB, are you having trouble posting the photos you started this post about ?

got it Pete

knee mail on the way...