Steve Sells

Before you ask a lot of questions, look around the site and read things. How to temper is based on why you need to temper. If you read a bit here, you would have noticed we have Heat Treating sections in the forum, as well as a separate section for it in blade work.

Welcome to the Site.

My Indiana State sales tax for the past year includes tax on my out of state sales. I have to pay it. :(

you disgust me I cant even hold a knife that small. How could you have made it ? lol great job Bob.

Annealing isn't the issue as you said there is very little carbon in the mix, if there was no carbon is would just be Iron. To be steel it needs to have iron and carbon. You need to address stress relief, a quick heat up should be fine for that. Even a water quench to get back to working on it again faster is fine as there isn't enough carbon to get it hardened.

Read about what hardening does to steel, and you will understand. There is a sticky in the knife HT section of some easier to understand details about it.

I Doubt it, as I use various acids to age (oxidize) copper.

I have made a few, and have a small pile of used chains for the next batch I do. Like any chain, remember to tap lightly til they close up, or you get a mess.

I see much Frank Lloyd Wright nice start.....

I place my wood cut to size in a PVC tube, poor in the resins, and seal. Then draw a vacuum with my pump for an hour or so, then pressure to +30 psi and leave it overnight. After it sets up, its solid all the way through.

I love my #45 .its about 100# and has a hard face that is great. Sorry for those that got stuck with a softer one.

Not sure why someone thought this fit better under "Casting".

We can't make it by hand, or are you asking if it is too hard to make profit with all the labor? I do enjoy making my damascus. I admit that I got around to making a rolling mill for drawing out, but a 6# or 7.5# cross and an anvil horn did me well for a while, and still does for many things. I averaged 35 hours for 350 layers for 2 or 3 blades, now with my rolling mill I can do the same work in about 15 hours of work, I still have no power hammer and I mainly use a 4.5# cross. Ask Unkle Spike, FatPete, Trying-it, or any of the other members of IFI that have been in my shop while I was working.

But I do admit a power hammer of some type would be much nicer, but noise and vibration not allowable in my neighborhood.

I got orders for making 3 doz flower trellis, from my father-in-law. no coal no coke, I tried to be a bad boy but I got things like Socks and shirts.

this was addressed in detail in the Friday Night knife chats for the repost of it

I gotta say it... Flamberge ?

If bevels are boring you, you are in the wrong hobby. Like any work, having the proper tools to do a job will make a difference. If there was an more efficient, and cheaper way, I would not have paid out about $2000 for my Bader.

If I can get forge time, I am in. Call me a "Maybe" in the beginner category. I've only made one knife before.
Phil

If normal annealing methods dont work well enough for you, read this

<snip>They are the one's that told me it is a Bronze/Alum alloy. It is non-matellic, non-sparking hammer.

one thing about the internet: If you dont already have some idea of the answer, its hard to tell the PhD's from the 12 year olds that read and post a lot. But to complain and blame an entire site for any post is just poor judgment, You are asking advanced questions that can not really be answered fully in a net post, you had been advised to seek a local University, so that you may come to understand the full answer. You seem to have missed that point.

I use the flat face for driving tools like chisels and punches, and gentile finish forging as mine is a 1# hammer. The ball end is used for texturing but mainly I use it for peining tangs of blades into the pommels and for rivets.

The ANSI standards for Rebar, are based not on composition but on strength. So they do not test or blend the melt for C and Mn as they do with tools steels. Like many steels its made from recycled steel, but why pay to test for things that don't really matter much, meaning its a crap shoot. Break and stretch testing is the most common, if this standard is met, then they don't care how much Mn or Chrome may have gotten included.

It is much like if you are making furniture from a hard wood, you want matching wood type, grain pattern and color, but if its for burning in a fireplace, does it matter much?

Welcome Back, I got your friend tag today. Glad yer home again :)

funny I do have a pair, I rarely use them, and even then for very sharp blades while sharpening. When I need forge gloves for welding, Harbor Freight has great canvas and leather gloves for less than $2 a pair. I buy them by the bulk package.

no carbon there is pollution.

A comment about the Insurance side of this, don't forget to add in the cost (to you and the client) of items lost while they are being manufactured. While these may not have an open market value unfinished, the cost to remake it all and the down time to your client receiving it will cost you. My agent suggested I add in $5000 for this to my blade shop.

K potter statement about heavy equipment: I got a lovely Mutaw Blueprint table (complete) and a 36 inch metal lathe for free, because of the cost to have them moved when that business lost its lease. They had a forklift there to load it for me, and the landlord for my old electric company property had one I could use to unload it at my shop. Plus I owned a 5 ton straight truck to carry them. These both went with the property when I closed due to the cost for me to remove them.

If he don't want them on his work, Why should any of us want to touch them ;)