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Steve Sells

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Posts posted by Steve Sells

  1. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0502 Wrench Holder
    by irnsrgn

     

     


    wrench1.jpg

    Many times a tool box looks like this, wrenches every where and you have to search for the size you want.

    wrench2.jpg

    An old trick is to use a compression spring as a wrench holder to help organize things.

  2. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0532 Get what you pay for, with no waste
    by Glenn Conner
     

     

    How many times have we collected buckets and barrels of scrap and then thrown them away. That is actually money in those containers, and we throw it out.

    Stock comes in 20 foot lengths from the steel yard, which can be cut into 2 each 10 foot sections to be easily hauled. Once back at the shop it can be placed into storage as a 10 foot length will fit diagonally on the ceiling of even small shops.

    Then it can be cut into 4 each 5 foot lengths (60 inches), 5 each 4 foot lengths (48 inches), 6 each 40 inch lengths, 8 each 30 inch lengths, 10 each 24 inch lengths, 12 each 20 inch lengths, 15 each 16 inch lengths, 20 each 12 inch lengths, and etc.

    The 48 inch section can be cut into 3 each 16 inch lengths, the 30 inch section can be cut into 2 each 15 inch lengths, the 16 inch section can be cut into 2 each 8 inch lengths, and the 60 inch section can be cut into a 36 inch length and a 24 inch length.

    Design or re-design your porjects on the following lengths of stock,

    120, 60, 48, 42, 40, 36, 30, 24, 20, 18, 16, 15, 12, 10, 9, 8, 6, 5, 4,

    That is 19 different lengths of stock and NOT ONE BIT OF WASTE !!

  3. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0551 Demo Trailer
    by Ptree aka Jeff

     



    Opening disclamier;

    This is a demo trailer I built. Building a trailer is a job only for those with very good welding skills and for someone willing to assume the risks of design of a road going vehicle. If you do not feel comfortable with building the actual trailer, trailers are available on the used market very cheap. Just use a commercially built trailer as the starting point.

    I built this trailer for a Indiana Blacksmithing Association competition as a do at home project. Scrounging and unusual materials counted for extra points. The actual as built cost for this trailer was less than $50.00. I only bought the hitch coupler, and new trailer lights. Later after I had won the contest, I noticed that the springs were badly worn, and I did not like dragging the differential, so I replaced the springs with new units from TSC, and gutted the differential. I turned the differential over, cut the ends of the housing off and welded the mounts from a mini-van rear axle on the ends. Then the bearing hub assy from the mini van, and NEW tires scrounged from a neighbors secret stash. I traded him some Bar-B-Que tools for those. I already had the blower, the drill press, and another neighbor had this old Datsun truck in his field rotting. He gave it to me to haul away. The tool box was a scrapped industrial electrical control panel box, gutted and all the holes welded up. This trailer has an extended frame to get the axle located correctly. It trails perfectly, and now has perhaps 3000 miles on it.

    058.jpg

    Trailer ready to travel

    002.jpg

    Forge is folded up and rain cover on the vise.

    004.jpg

    Offside with tool box.

    006.jpg

    Lots of stuff in a small space!

    008.jpg

    Stack for forge is stowed on the roof.

    009.jpg

    Vise is uncovered.

    010.jpg

    Forge wind shield is folded up.

    011.jpg

    Hooks for fire tools are hung on forge edge, stack clamp readied.

    040.jpg

    Stack is placed on peg in forge rear.

    013.jpg

    Clamp is installed.


    014.jpg

    Forge is ready for the fire.

    015.jpg

    Now to unload. Note legs that engage the floor grooves, holds table steady.

    016.jpg

    Other end has fixed wheel to allow rolling the long table out. This is a breeze to roll out and unload as you go.

    017.jpg

    Table with the legs flipped and inserted into the same socket that held them for travel, but from the bottom.

    038.jpg

    All this stuff was stowed on the table.

    018.jpg

    Table has back bar to hang stock from to display, and projecting arms to hang dinner bells from. The little kids love these bells and I invite them to come over and ring. They drag the adults along:) Also keeps the little hands off the other stuff on the table. These are low enough for a 3 year old to ring.
    019.jpg

    Next the drill press is pulled from stowage.

    020.jpg

    Drill is mounted.

    042.jpg

    On a drop on mount. Note cut outs in channel for lightness.

    021.jpg

    Next the remaining tables are pulled out. Another roller rack, shorter to clear the blower.

    022.jpg

    Table legs drop on...

    023.jpg

    pegs on the rack. these help hold the racks easel and table upright.

    024.jpg

    Blower is now exposed inside the box, out of the weather.Note protective cage and compact spare tire.

    025.jpg

    Blower feeds the fire pot made from a trailer steel rim with one tire bead flange cut off.

    026.jpg

    Blower crank is through the side of the box.

    027.jpg

    Rigged to demo! just add the fire, stock on display, and a crowd. I left the anvil in the shop, but it and its mount alo stow in the box.

    028.jpg

    The tool box is made from a gasketed door industrial control panel. Holds plenty and is rain tight. I added a shelf, and hooks for fire tools.

    029.jpg

    Drop down shelf is very handy.

    033.jpg

    Note the extended frame to allow trailer correct geometry, to trail correctly.

    034.jpg

    Stock racks, rubber bungee is where the 70# demo anvil rides. Stand for anvil just behind once loaded.

    I use this trailer, mostly loading and unloading by myself. All the tubing is thin wall, 16ga. Makes the tables and so forth very light.I can easily carry the long table by myself without straining. The plywood table top is 6mm plywood salvaged from crates, but 1/4" from the big box store would work as well. I can unload and set up and have a demo ready fire ETC in about 40 minutes from unhooking the trailer. If one of the kids is helping make that 20 minutes. I can leave much of my demo equipment in the trailer all the time and it stays dry and out of the way. Also nice to hide the tools if a rain shower approaches during a demo.
    The pick up I used was a standard length Datsun from way back. Sitting useless in a neighbors field. He wanted it gone and I made that happen. I cut off the cab portion, saving as much of the frame as possible. I salvaged the torsion bars from the front end, and the remainder went to the scrap yard. The fiberglass cover was sound but had had a pass through so I had to fill the front in. I had to patch many rusted spots in the bed. But still cheap.

    I made sure that the frame parts I retained were sound and reinforced a couple of area that may have been thinned with rust. I ended up eventually replacing the axle with a rebuilt free wheel unit I made up from odds and ends. An aluminum topper would have been much lighter, but most this age are bad leakers. A taller topper would be very nice, as would a bat wing topper. I haul my demo trailer with a E-150 econoline with a 302 and it pulls really nicely. Very steady with no weave. It would be nice to have brakes, as I figure I may have 1000 to 1500# all up. Still petty light.
     

  4. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0552 Dolphins
    by Bill Epps
    photos by Bill Epps and Richard Thibeau

     

     


    Dal-1.jpg

    I start with a piece of 1/4" X 1" flat bar and set down what will become the snout

    DolphinI.JPG

    The snout formed and the head started to round back

    Dal-3.jpg

    After rounding the front of the head start tapering the body

    Dal-4.jpg

    Start forming the end of the body leaving the stock width that will become the tail

    Dal-5.jpg

    Use the corner of the anvil to start the dorsal fin (just like drawing a clip on a horseshoe)

    Dal-6.jpg

    Drawn out dorsal fin

    Dal-7.jpg

    Use a round head punch to start the flipper fins (like a bob punch )

    DolphinF.JPG

    Cut the piece off the stock

    DolphinE.JPG

    Put a 90 degree twist at the end of the body to make the tail flat with the body

    DolphinD.JPG

    Take a good heat and hammer the twist out to make it smooth with the rest of the body

    DolphinK.JPG

    Now the twist is blended in to the rest of the body

    DolphinJ.JPG

    Punch the eye and chisel the mouth

    Dal-16.jpg

    Using a sander polisher (not a angle grinder ) with a cup wire wheel at a red heat I clean up the piece

    Dal-17.jpg

    Dolphin from 1" flat bar a little skinny

    DolphinA.JPG

    Dolphin from 1 1/2" flat bar makes a fatter critter

  5. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0572 How to make Charcoal
    by Jaco aka James Flannery
     


    SANY0018.JPG

    The empty tub with holes in bottom. Just an old washing machine tub with holes in the bottom. Set on a couple of pieces of wood to allow air to circulate up through the holes in the bottom of the tub.

    SANY0022.JPG

    Start a fire with cardboard and small wood scraps. Wait a few minutes.....

    SANY0023.JPG

    Add some dry wood. About 18inches long......that's the size that fits the tub......split to 2 in. x 2 in. more or less.. wait a few minutes.......

    SANY0024.JPG

    The wood burns down and the fire gets hotter. Add more wood. I want the tub to be as nearly full as possible.

    SANY0020.JPG

    This is some wood from a previous burn that did not char completely. I add it last since it doesn't have far to go to become charcoal.

    SANY0026.JPG

    Since I got in a hurry and added all the partially charred stuff all at once, there was some smoke.

    SANY0032.JPG

    The smoke burns off and I have a hot fire of heaped wood.

    SANY0033a.JPG

    A piece of sheet metal from an old animal feeder serves as a lid. A metal barrel lid will do the same thing.

    SANY0034a.JPG

    When the wood burns down a little more, the lid will settle on the the tub rim making a fair seal......but certainly not airtight. When I put the lid on the tub, I also kick the wooden supports out from under the tub to help seal the air holes in the bottom.

    SANY0037a.JPG

    I always put something heavy on the lid to keep the wind from blowing it off the tub.
    I usually fire this thing up in the evening and let it burn through the night. I always set the tub away from buildings and anything else that might be combustible. A typical burn usually yields about a 5 gal. bucket of charcoal.

    SANY0058.JPG

    The next morning, the charcoal was still smoking just a little.......so I dashed a gallon or so of water in the tub.

    SANY0042.JPG

    This is what the charcoal looks like in action. This is one version of the semi-direct method for making charcoal. I do it because it's easy and simple. It takes longer to explain it than it takes to do it.

  6. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0578 Head Rest
    by Glenn Conner, Whitesmith aka Sean Conner

     

     

    The hood and sides were removed from the yard tractor and Whitesmith was fixing something but every now and again there was a crunching type sound.

    26.jpg

    This was one of the moments when you just have to stop and ask, what ARE you doing? Working on the tractor was the reply.

    29.jpg

    What is that crunching sound?

    31.jpg

    Oh that. I got tired of holding my head in the air while I worked. So I got a head rest. It makes things a lot easier.

    I am going to try this on out of position welding next chance I get. Who says you can not learn a trick or two from another blacksmith.

  7. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0584 How to store a chain
    by Glenn Conner, Whitesmith aka Sean Conner

     

    25.jpg

    Is this how you store your chain? There is an easier way you know.

    20.jpg

    Get a old one gallon paint bucket. Start one end on the chain into the bucket.

    21.jpg

    Keep feeding the chain into the bucket till you run out of chain.

    23.jpg

    Pick the bucket up by the handle and be happy. To use, just grab the hood and pull the chain out of the bucket.

    To keep the chain from rusting, spray it with a little automatic transmission fluid.

  8.         IForgeIron Blueprints

    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0553 Building a Brick Forge - Part 1
    by Jeremy Knippel 2006



    BF30.jpg

    I will try to explain the best I can on how I built this forge. Nowing that if you build a forge similar to this, you may be using mat'ls of different sizes and or re-design it to fit your needs. I'm including a lot of pictures so that any cement contractor / or yourself can see how it's done and use their / your judgement as to any changes or modifications. These are the only pics I took during construction. If I don't have a clear picture of something I will try to explain it as I go.

    *******This is just my design and may not be the best way or the right way to build this.*******

    BF1.jpg

    In the backround is a couple pallets of bricks worth and this shows the future placement of brick forge.

    BF2.jpg

    These are the dimensions for the brick layout. The 2 side arches are not dimesioned but as you will see in the following pics - you will understand how they are in relationship to the rest. All they are for is access to the ash dump and extra storage under the forge, so they do not need to be any place exactly. The 24" dimension is the depth of the chimney from the firepot up,(again later pics will explain).

    BF3.jpg

    This is the start of the lay out so the contractor can get a feel for what is wanted. The row next to his hand will be moved over toward him so the 2 bricks on top can be placed in between the 2 side rows so the width is 3 brown bricks an 2 red half bricks.

    BF4.jpg

    This is the start of laying the bricks. The red half bricks for the borders are set out from the brown bricks by a 1/4" for a bolder look. Concrete ties were used ( shaped in a U and inserted in the holes of the bricks and core filled) to help hold the border bricks to the rest of the main ones.

    BF5.jpg

    Another view of the start.

    BF6.jpg

    Working on the base of the chimney.

    BF7.jpg

    The bricks are layed up to were the arches will set now.

    BF8.jpg

    This is the start of puting in the archways. The arch support is made from 1/4" x 6" flat steel. Each end has a 1"flat extension to set on the bricks. Being the arch supports were made from mat'ls at hand I had to put a rod support on the back side to hold the arch from tipping inward during the brick installation.

    BF9.jpg

    Laying the top row of red bricks for the (coal tray and fire pot support - # 2 in the series of 3).

    BF10.jpg

    Another view.

    BF11.jpg

    The brick work is done and ready for the chimney floor (will be the same level as the coal and fire pot level).

    BF12.jpg

    The base below the chimney was filled with extra and broke blocks for filler and filled with cement. I used a 6" galvanized pipe for a clearance hole for the 3" air intake pipe. This is a critical measurement as far as height, so that after everything is done your air intake pipe will fit into the bottom of your fire pot. Also you can see were the back of the arch was filled with mortar and smoothed upward (as a fillet weld), this may not be necessary but I did it for extra support for the arch bricks.

    BF13.jpg

    Fire brick was used for the inside of the chimney area. Measurements are approximate - I did not measure these during assembly - I tried to get them afterward the best a could. These are as close as I could get - you may have to slightly change these measurements as needed.

    BF14.jpg

    Laying the brick up as the chimney is being done. The chimney opening is starting to take shape.

    BF15.jpg

    The opening is almost done(14" wide, 16-1/2 " tall, and 17-1/2" at the middle of the arch). The arch support on this one is temporary - it was removed so that there was no problem with different heat expansions between the metal and brick.

    BF16.jpg

    Things progressing along good.

    BF17.jpg

    By this time I was getting pretty exited as to how it was looking.

    BF18.jpg

    BF19.jpg

    View looking down the chimney.

    BF20.jpg

    Another view.

    BF21.jpg

    Starting the tapering of the inside of the chimney.

    BF22.jpg

    Tapering the sides inward so the 12"x12' flue will have a place to set.

    BF23.jpg

    Another view.

    BF24.jpg

    You can see were the inside of the transition of the taper is plastered over with mortar to make smooth for the smoke. Also there is a smoke shelf just above the top firebrick row across the back.

    BF25.jpg

    The rest of the outer bricks were brought up to the clay tile area and the first clay tile flue was set.

    BF26.jpg

    Another view.

    BF27.jpg

    From the bottom of the 12 inch x 12 inch flue up - insulation was put inside the gap between the outer bricks and the flue. This helps to speed up the heating of the flue to start the smoke draw. This was done all the way to the top of the chimney outside above the roof.

    BF28.jpg

    Another view, ready to go through the roof.

    BF29.jpg

    Plastic was put on the tapered area to keep motar off while proceeding through the roof.

    BF30.jpg

    All the brick is done, acid washed, and sealed. The chimney above the inside ceiling was made with regular block around the flue and built up to the recommended height according to the distance from the peak of the roof. I made a stainless steel roof jack for were the chimney exits the roof outside.

    That's how I built my forge -Jeremy Knippel

  9. This was taken from an email to assist a member in trying to get a good forge weld.

    To start let us discuss colors of hot steel.

    Lessons in Blacksmithing
    Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved.

    LB0007 Seeing Colors
    Explanation of colors:
    I divide red, orange, and yellow (the colors of heated metal) into 3 groups each. Start with black then low red, medium red and high red, low orange, medium orange, and high orange, low yellow, medium yellow, and high yellow, then white heat. This is followed by sparks. The lower temperatures have more separation in heat colors than the separation in heat colors at high temperatures. The difference is suttle, and everyone sees color differently. The same colors are different temperatures in bright sun then in shade and may differ by as much as 2, 3, or 4 color levels. You need to standardize to your conditions. The 12 color divisions (black to sparks) are enough for discussion purposes, and are repeatable under YOUR conditions.

    This is the time you need to find a steel yard and purchase some NEW mild steel stock. Put the metal into the fire and get it hot enough to throw sparks, just like a 4th of July (USA) sparkler. This is usually when the metal is beyond high yellow or white in color. You have now successfully burned the metal, don't do it again as that is TOO HOT. Cut the burnt end off the stock to where there is new material.

    Put the stock back into the fire, heat to high orange or yellow, and hit it with a hammer. It will move a certain way under the hammer each (every) time. When the metal gets to low orange in color by loosing heat, it will stiffen a bit. Warm it back up and do it again at orange in color, hammering the metal while it falls to medium red in color. Put it in the fire and bring it only up to showing low red in color. Hit it with the hammer and feel how it moves (or doesn't want to move). Back to the fire and then repeat at yellow. Feel the hammer when it hits the metal at different temperatures. If you see the color of the mild steel as red stop and take another heat, get it back up to working temperature.

    Different types of metal act differently at the same heat color. Some metals have short working temperatures, meaning that they only should be worked at medium to high yellow for instance. If it gets to low yellow quit and take another heat. This is something you will have to either learn on your own or seek the advice of others that have worked this type steel.

    Your eyes see colors differently then how others see and label the same color due to age, glasses, and life experiences. You are building YOUR heat standard for YOUR forge under YOUR smithy conditions.

    During the next week, look at different objects in your part of the world and *see* the color. Then label that color as black, reds, oranges, yellows, white. The practice will aid you when you get to the forge and being able to tell the sometimes suttle differences in colors. If you really want to know what temperature a specific color represents, or what temperature a piece of steel has been heated to, purchase a temperature measuring device called a pyrometer. There are also wax pencils that can be applied to the steel that will melt at a specific temperature. Both work well and are more than accurate for use in blacksmithing.

    Now that we have the colors so we can talk to each other. Try the following

    Run the fire deeper so you have more available heat with less oxygen getting to the steel. Put the anvil beside the forge, one step away so you do not loose heat or time. Practice the dance of going from the fire to the anvil in one smooth quick motion.

    With mild steel, wait until it throws the second spark and hit the weld as it throws spark #3 (or try to).

    Bump the metal to make the forge weld. This can be done with a piece of wood such as a broken hammer handle minus the head. Just hold it vertical and bring it down and bump the metal. The photos that you see where blacksmiths spray sparks all over the smithy is just Hollywood effects as those sparks are your weld being scattered to the 4 corners of the shop. You can touch the two pieces of metal together in the fire and when everything is right they will weld together, at the touch point,right there in the fire.

    Once you bump the metal together on the anvil, go back to the fire and reheat to the 2nd spark again. This time bump the metal with the hammer head to complete the weld. Let it cool to high yellow and then hammer it into shape.
    :
    Larger material (1/2 inch and above) welds easier than smaller material as it holds more heat. You can put a piece of heavy metal (say 1 inch plate) in the forge, get it to low red, and use it as the anvil to bump the weld together. The hot plate will not suck the heat out of the weld like a cold anvil will do.

    Practice is the key, A couple of welds every time you build a fire and you will figure it out quickly.

    FLUX, flux is not glue. It helps but is not needed. A wire brush to remove any scale at orange heat, again at yellow, is all that is needed in most cases.

    Read about scarfing or shaping the ends to be welded so they push out any slag or junk as the weld is being made. You want to upset the ends a bit so you will have some extra material in the weld. You then pound this material back into the stock once the weld is finished. Otherwise you may have a thinning of the material at the point of the weld.

    Hope it helps as there is no magic to making a forge weld, just figuring out how it is done and then like anything else you want to get good at doing, lots of practice.

  10. IForgeIron Lessons in Blacksmithing
    Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved.

    LB0004 BP925 Blacksmithing Hammers


    Hammers

    Blacksmiths use many different hammers, hand hammers, foot operated hammers, motorized hammers, steam hammers, pneumatic hammers, and others. As you are just starting, we will discuss hand hammers.




    372.jpg
    These are NOT hammers. You may sometimes see them being used as hammers, but that is both wrong and dangerous. They are NOT hammers, and should not be used as such.



    356.jpg
    This is a carpenters hammer not a blacksmiths hammer. It will work but is not recommended.



    357.jpg
    A ball peen hammer or machinists hammer is a much better choice for starting out in blacksmithing. There is usually one somewhere in most garages, at flea markets, or junk stores. Most people will want a hammer with a head that weighs 1-1/2 to 2 pounds.



    358.jpg
    While your looking for the ball peen, see if you can locate a mini-sledge, again with about a 2 pound head weight.



    365.jpg


    366.jpg
    A cross peen hammer (top hammer in both photos) has the peen cross ways (90 degrees) to the direction of the handle. The straight peen (bottom hammer in both photos) has the peen in the same direction as the handle. Either one with a head weight of about 2 pounds or less is what most blacksmiths use.



    359.jpg


    360.jpg



    363.jpg


    800h.jpg

    The peen may be of different shapes but all three of the above are still called cross peen hammers. The bottom hammers are Hofi hammers, one cast type, one forged type.




    361.jpg
    This peen is turned 45 degrees to the right and is called a slash peen, or diagonal peen, or right handed diagonal peen.



    362.jpg
    This peen is turned 45 degrees to the left and is called a slash peen, or diagonal peen, or left handed diagonal peen.



    367.jpg
    Here you can see the left handed diagonal peen, cross peen and right handed diagonal peen.

    The difference in use is the blacksmith being right handed with the hammer in the right hand, they still have the ability to see where the hammer is hitting the work. If they were to use a left handed diagonal peen, the peen would block their view of the work.


    370.jpg

    371.jpg
    The hammer shown are ball peen, left handed diagonal peen, straight peen, cross peen and right handed diagonal peen.



    How to hold the hammer

    You should grip the wooden handle in such a way it is comfortable to you, thumb down and against or close to your fingernails. If you take a couple practice swings in the air, you will find the distance from the hammer head that is comfortable to you.

    You need just enough grip on the handle to keep it in your hand when you swing the hammer. The shoulder, arm, and wrist are all involved in the swing. Keep the elbow next to your side. As you gain more control of the hammer, you will adjust the distance between the hammer head and the grip point. Many times only an inch or so makes a large difference in comfort.


    Hammer control

    One of the things you need to learn is hammer control. That means how to hold the hammer, and how to hit where you want the hammer to hit. Start 5 or so nails in a block of wood. How take your hammer and hit each nail one time. Continue hitting one nail at a time while you vary the pattern. Practice is what makes the hammer go where you want and hit where you want.

    With a pencil, put 5 or more random X's on a piece of pine sheeting or other soft wood. Place the board on the face of your anvil. Now hit each X one time with the hammer. You should see a pattern to the imprints in the wood. A crescent means you do not have a square hit. Crescent at 12 o'clock means the board (anvil face) is too low, at 6 o'clock means the board (anvil face) is too high, left or right is how you hold and or swing the hammer. Your objective is a circular impression with the X in the middle.

    This is not a one time project, but a practice that you should do until you gain hammer control. It is also a good way to check the height of the anvil and how you hold your hammer. Use the wood at the beginning of the forge session and again at the end. Compare the impressions. Make changes in your technique if needed.

     

  11. no clue, its a Glenn number system. I honestly think its based on when it was presented as much as anything

    everyone should be able to read and post to the forum sub section,. the Pages will be going away after I finish up, I have been deleting from there as I transport them into the forum itself

  12. IForgeIron.com Blueprints
    Copyright © 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON.COM, All rights reserved.

    BP0903 Vise Stand
    by Pascalou

    Posted 11 January 2009 - 05:34 AM

     


    Hello

    Here a vice stand.an alternative of the system of displacement of the anvil stand of " markb". weight: approximately 130 kg
    A+ P.L

    01.jpg

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    06.jpg

  13. IForgeIron.com Blueprints
    Copyright © 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON.COM, All rights reserved.

    BP0904 Vise Stand
    by Iron Falcon 72
    Posted 22 February 2009 - 09:01 PM

    Here's a new post vise stand I just finished by modifying the green base. This is a small vise, 3.5". I have a larger one that needs a new spring and wedges. It will be next.
    The stand was originally set up with a chain saw sharpener on top. Got it and the sharpener for $50. The sharpener's table is shown with the post still attached where I cut it off. I had no idea the post was solid but my Milwaukee "The Torch" cut-off blade went right through it.

    The new top is all scrap from the junkyard. I hadn't done any welding in about a year so it started a little rough. I plan to store tongs and hammers on the sides and end.

    The only markings on the vise are the numbers shown. The "35" may refer to it's size. I know it's not much to go on but, does anyone recognize the brand?
    I'm sure that there are better arrangements for the tongs and hammers but, I have only a small area to work in (6x8) and no room for another rack. And at this point I don't have so many of either.

    I'm not sure how much it weighs. The flat bottom actually makes it less stable. It rocks on every little bump on the floor. When I decide where it will finally reside I will bolt it to the floor.

    01.jpg

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    04.jpg

  14. IForgeIron.com Blueprints
    Copyright © 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON.COM, All rights reserved.

    BP0905 Vise Stand
    by Frosty
    Posted 08 April 2009 - 09:45 PM

    How handy the vise stand thread comes up now. I just finished a folding vise stand I started before my last surgery took me out of action for a while.

    01.jpg

    I added a couple chachkas to hold hardy tools, hammers and my twisting wrench. There's a 3/4"+ lip around the plate behind the vise so I can lay tools on it and keep them handy.

    It has one coat of paint, will get another and a little gold trim to match the vise, my shop colors are green and gold.

    Frosty


  15. Posted 22 July 2011 - 09:27 PM
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    BP0906 Vise Stand
    by Andrew OC
    Posted 01 March 2010 - 07:16 AM

    Hi y'all,
    here is a vice my TAFE college has used for an age. The origins of the cast iron trapizoid are lost in the mists of time. It is quite heavy, just movable with a long bar.enjoy

    01.jpg

    02.jpg
    AndrewOC

  16. Posted 22 July 2011 - 10:27 PM
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    BP0907 Traveling Vise Stand
    by Vance
    Posted 24 August 2010 - 04:28 PM

    Since I don't have a "show" trailer, and some shows/festivals won't allow vehicles/trailers in the vendor's area, I needed a portable vise.
    3 major parts, (the wedge, nuts, and bolts don't count), assembles and breaks down with only a small Crescent wrench and small hammer.
    Base is 1/2" thick plate from the scrapyard, upright is the shaft from an old warehouse fan, (the base of which is well on it's way to becoming my portable 24" dia. forge.


    The vise leg is slightly longer than the upright from the base allowing the two forward bolts to "tension" the unit by trying to pull the mounting column "up" while pushing the "leg" down. It'd disassemble easy enough, but getting it back together would still require at least loosening the two forward bolts.

    Since most of the "stability" comes from you standing on the base plate it's stable enough for making twists and bends in smaller stock or holding pieces for grinding. I won't be twisting and 1" stock at shows anyway, so this will suit my purpose.

    If in your moving around you wind up with a concrete pad to work on you can always drill holes in the corners and install Hilti or Red Head anchors in the concrete. 1/2' lead shield anchors and lags would also probably be good enough, and when you move on there will only be 4 small holes as any sign you were ever there.

    01.jpg

    02.jpg

    03.jpg

    04.jpg

  17. Posted 22 July 2011 - 10:46 PM
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    BP0908 Vise Stand
    by Curly George
    Posted 14 December 2010 - 10:50 PM

    I had a customer come to me and ask if I could locate a mounting bracket for his 6-inch leg vice, and make a spring, too. The vice used to be his grandfather's and he could't locate the bracket or the spring. I checked Ebay, Craigslist, and asked around our area. But nobody knew where to find a bracket. I have a 6-inch vice that I use in my shop, but the one that he has is a bit beefier than mine. So, I got some 1/2-inch plate, and had a local man that has an O/A torch cut out a bracket that I made a template for. I made it a little bigger than mine. I also had some 1 1/2-inch square bar. So I cut it, drilled a series of holes down the center (for the wedges) and cleaned the inside with a file. It came out a lot better than I expected. Now I have to clean up the not so great cut around the outside of the plate and weld the wedge block on. Here's a couple of pics of what I have so far. I'll post the finished pics in a couple of days.

    01.jpg

    02.jpg

    03.jpg


    Southshoresmith
    Having done it my self its actually not that hard of a part to forge. Not much harder than forging a hammer.

    04.JPG


    Curlygeorge
    I got the bracket cleaned up and welded together. Tripple pass welds all the way around. Beveled down each side, first. I think that the guy will be happy with it. I am!

    05.jpg

    06.jpg


    Clinton
    Yes it is doable, but I would advise the help of a striker. I did mine myself by hand. The slit and drift was quite a work out, but I was able to use the powerhammer to flatten the end. Not as nice as southshoresmith's but I can say that I forged it

    07.JPG


    Grant Sarver
    Thought you might like this.

    08.jpg


    Curlygeorge
    Got everything done, including making up the new spring. Everything is tight, when I drove in the wedge. He's supposed to come and pick it up in the next day or two.

    09.jpg

  18. Posted 22 July 2011 - 10:14 PM
    Posted Today, 08:33 PM
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    BP0909 Unitity Candle
    by Primtechsmith

    This is a Unity candle I made for my kid sister's wedding this past June. The cross is 1" square and the four parts are attached with angle iron pieces with rivets. A 1/4" round bar is tied in a knot placed in the middle(for her tying the knot...haha). It is about 15'' tall. base is about 8"x11" I think. Everything is riveted, tenoned, or screwed together(the candle cups). They were happy with the outcome and so was I.

    01.jpg

    02.jpg

    03.jpg

    I had a lot of help with making it all come together from "yesteryearforge". I am lucky to have a good hand to siphon my hallucinations into finished items. And to remind me that no matter the project it is all a bunch of small steps.

    Hoping to get into the forge soon to practice some more...

    Peyton

  19. Posted 26 July 2011 - 08:49 PM
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    BP0910 Combo Vise Stand
    by Southshoresmith

    01.JPG

    02.JPG

    I took this photo months ago and meant to post a then.

    We made this first as a vise stand only to then decide that we needed a place for the Hossfeld bender as well. It has worked out very well in the shop and gets used frequently. I thought I would share it with all of you. It is the result of several people's input and labor. This is used in the center of the shop for heavy bending, for holding jigs, and also times when you just need a big strong vise. The vise is a 7-inch Fisher double screw chain vise. It opens over 12-inches and grips like a bull dog. I once griped a 2-inch round bar 3-feet long...it held my weight out on the end (210 lbs) off the floor and did not move.

  20. Posted 27 July 2011 - 11:59 AM

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    BP0911 Twists in Bars
    by John B

    TWISTS IN BARS
    NOTE: Twists can be right handed or left handed.
    Right hand twists are illustrated. Pictures are large for ease of understanding method and appearance.

    Tools used when producing these,
    Forge, Anvil, Leg vise, Hammer, Centre punch, Hot set (Hot chisel/incising tool,) Appropriate tongs, Twisting wrenches, Water dipper, Water tank/supply, Wood block, rawhide or wood mallet, a Wire brush, and a sacrificial plate for cutting through on the cage twist in solid bar to prevent damaging anvil face.

    HOW TWISTS DEVELOP

    12mm square bars used in sample pictures

    From Basic Twist to Cage Twist
    Done Cold, produces an even twist but it has a limited length of pitch before it shears. In practice, it is limited by ability to apply pressure on wrench and grip on other end.

    01.jpg


    Done Hot, twists can be tighter (shorter pitch.)
    02.jpg


    Two sides incised on the centre line and twist, Appears like Two flat bars twisted together
    03.jpg


    Four sides incised on the centre line and twist, Appears like Four square bars twisted together
    04.jpg


    Four sides incised on the centre line with a pair of opposite corners knocked off into a rounded edge and twist,
    Appears like Two round bars and two square bars twisted together
    05.jpg


    Four sides incised on the centre line, all the corners knocked off to form a rounded edge and twist, Appears like a Rope twist
    06.jpg


    Four sides incised on the centre lines, then split right through, (this could be from all four sides or just two)
    The bar is then twisted a known number of times, and then untwisted half the number of turns whilst pressure is exerted to push the split part of the bar back into itself, compressing the twist and forcing the cage outwards to the required shape, adjust if required. Cage twist pictured is a parallel sample.
    07.jpg


    These twists are all made using the same basic twist and using different numbers of incised lines on the centre lines, if you move the position of the incised lines before twisting, and forging the corners, you will get even more different effects or appearances. The combinations are only limited by your imagination.

    Here is another sample that is similar but different to a previous one shown. This one has four sides incised, not on the centre line this time, but near and adjacent to two of the edges, with the two opposite corners knocked off into a rounded edge.

    Another variation is a small flat is forged the length of the twist on each corner/edge, an incised line is applied on each edge and then the bar is heated and twisted. Ribbon twist
    08.jpg

    Or these, sometimes called Water twists
    Incise two opposite sides near to the edge, the length of the twist section required, and then make a short ¼ twist, then make a reverse ¼ twist at the desired spacing, and repeat along the required length
    09.jpg

    Or increase the twist rate to ½ turn and reverse ½ turn
    10.jpg

    Same but different for comparison...½ twist gives a chunkier appearance
    11.jpg

    Or you could do these twists in the same direction (no pics available)

    If you apply the same principle about development, you can produce a pineapple twist, or three separate styles of twists starting with;
    A square bar is twisted, then the twist’s high spots are forged back to the original square bars’ size.
    The bar was differentially twisted as opposed to equal twists, and you can clearly see the difference it makes in the appearance of the facets. This was due to lack of uniform heating throughout the twisting operation.
    12.jpg

    If you then reheat the bar and reverse the twists, you get a Knobbly effect
    13.jpg

    However, if you incise the four sides on their centre line, twist a known number of times, then flatten to square, incise again on these ‘new’ sides and reverse twist half the number of previous twists, and if arranged correctly will give a Pineapple twist or Diamond Twist effect.
    14.jpg

    This from iforge source Cube twist
    Incise down centre line on all four sides, then cut using a hacksaw or thin blade on angle grinder the equal sections diagonally across opposite edges.
    15.jpg

  21. Posted 28 July 2011 - 07:54 PM
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    BP0912 Metal passing through metal
    by Primtechsmith

    After seeing a few pass-thru examples in print and in person, I decided to play around with it and incorporate it into an idea I have been kicking around. It is 1/2-inch round with a 3/4-inch slit and drifted hole. The leaf was made after passing the nub through the hole. It is tenoned on the end to go into the round plate disc I beat up and slightly domed.

    I wanted the hole to look somewhat like a hollow in a tree...It still needs to be refined, but is a start.

    01.jpg

    02.jpg

    03.jpg

    The best thing about it is the base for me. I lightly hit it with a 4 1/2-inch grinder to highlight the high spots. With a coat of clear spray paint it turned out okay.

    Not sure what to do with this "element"...but, I do like the idea and lines of it. Maybe in the future something functional can come of it...This one ended up in Iron in the Hat.

    Ideas and criticisms are always welcome...

    Peyton


  22. Posted 08 August 2011 - 12:55 AM
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    BP0913 Twists
    by Sask Mark

    01.JPG

    02.JPG
    So I was in my shop today looking at the nails on the rafters (you know, the place where you hang everything?), and said to myself, 'Dang, I have tooooo many zip discs! Now what am I going to do about it?' So I made these....things.

  23. Posted 08 August 2011 - 01:05 AM
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    BP0914 Candle Holder
    by Mark Snagel

    A while back "Curlygeorge" posted pictures and instructions on how to make candle holders out of pipe. I left a comment saying how much I liked the holder and would copy it some day. George sent me a message the other day and said that he was looking back over his posts and saw my comment. He sent me the pictures via email, along with the steps of how to make them, (BP). Easy to follow and great pictures. Not many people these days will go out of their way without prompting as he did. This is the sign of a great teacher. Through his willingness to share and teach I made four of them today. Hopefully someday I can step out and help a budding blacksmith as he did.

    Here they are: I made 4 of them.

    01.jpg

    02.jpg

    03.jpg

    04.jpg


    They are all mostly identical with small differences that make each unique. The last one I made has one of the legs shortened into a carrying handle (first picture). I thought this would make that one........ Oh well, actually I was multitasking and burnt the end slam off one leg. Hence the handle. Thanks for looking, keep sharing knowledge.
    Thanks George! Mark


  24. Posted 04 September 2011 - 01:34 AM
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    BP0915 Freon Tank Extended Forge
    by Fluidsteel
     

     


    Posted 10 August 2011 - 11:27 PM

    I'm building a freon tank forge. For now it will be a venturi burner, but will be modifiable to be blown.. This is getting me by untill I have the time to do a dual burner PID controlled temperature adjustable heat-treat/forge. I didn't like that they weren't QUITE deep enough for a big 15-18" chopper blade. I'm also going to add angle iron to the back and make a firebrick back door for bigger/longer stock.

    I started with my shop's scrap bin... Lookie here free(on) tanks!

    01.jpg

    I picked out a couple....Applied the safety goggles and respirator....cut one in half with the angle grinder, and cut off the end of the other.....

    02.jpg

    Then I stuck them together... Actually, I stuck them together BEFORE I cut the end off of the blue tank, it took me ten minutes to get them apart. I think that means they fit together nicely.

    03.jpg

    Next, allowing for 2" of inswool and around 2" of 3200 degree refractory cement I centered my burner hole and drilled it with a hole saw...I put in a 1.5-inch BI nipple. It is in there now with locknuts from an EMT conduit connector, but it will be welded when done.

    04.jpg

    I made this burner... it's based on a Zoeller Z burner. I bought the parallel fitting, but the rest was scrap including the 1" SS 304 pipe. I'm going to forge a flare into the end of the SS....

    05.jpg

    Put it on the pipe rack and with the help of a hammer to keep it from kinking bent it to bring the burner in on a tangent.... Like a 6 on it's side...

    06.jpg

    Next, I'm welding a couple 1-inch pipes to the side. Going to run a couple pieces of 1/2-inch rod through them with a 1/4-inch plate between for a tool/tong rest. I ordered and added a PID controller with a thermocouple shield, and a couple other items to get my temps set for normalizing and heat treating..
    I'm a beginning bladesmith, and want to do blacksmithing as well..
    I'm also adding angle iron to the front to allow a firebrick door that slides open, left and right like a big aircraft hanger...I will weld it up this weekend. If the PID comes, I'll add the thermocouple too!

    What do you guys think? I'm a total newbie and am coming at this from HOURS of reading and researching... This is my version of slapping something together because I want to forge NOW!

    Brian

    Thomas Powers
    Tight at room temp and tight at hot temp are not the same; but a few self drilling self tapping metal screws through the overlap will make sure it won't work loose even when hot.

    Phil Krankowski
    You probably also want a pass thru out the backside, and having a slot for extra wide things is very nice too.

    Matt Bower
    Good work. 2-inches of castable is way too much, IMO. It'll take a very long time to get up to temperature and waste a lot of fuel, assuming you aren't planning to run this thing 16 hours a day. 1-inch is more than enough, and less would do fine.

    On further reflection, forget my last question. Regardless of how you're planning to set and hold the temperatures for heat treating, that forge isn't going to do it for you. I'm sorry to say it, because I know you've done a lot of hard work on this thing so far, but it's just not the thing for what you want to do. It'll be good for forging big stuff -- it'll work for forging blades as well, although it's excessively long for that. But the burner coming in the side like that is always going to create a hot spot, and because of that the temperature inside is going to vary a fair bit from one spot to another. The temperature your thermocouple reads will depend on where it's placed in the forge. For long, thin stuff like blades, you'll have serious problems obtaining even temps across the whole blade. It's the nature of the design. For heat treating, especially blades, you want as even a temperature as posslble throughout the entire interior of the furnace, and you want that temperature to be very close to the temperature you're trying to achieve in the steel. What you want is something like this:

    http://www.dfoggkniv...S/DrumForge.htm

    See how the burner comes in from the end and points down the long axis of the forge? No direct flame impingement on the side, or the blade itself, and the large interior volume lets the temperature even out. No hot spots.

    Fluidsteel
    A couple questions Matt,

    One, it's not obvious from the picture, as I didn't show an after picture, but the burner inlet was bent on the tank to cause it to come in on an angle like a "b" on it's side. I was told that will help the flame roll through the forge. Do yo think that will help keep the temps even?
    I was going with the thicker refractory because my research said that it will help keep the temps more stable, More mass does take longer to heat, but it also retains it's heat longer. Thoughts?
    I could easily scrap this plan if it's a waste of my time.
    For now, all I'm forging is 1084. No soak time at temperature is needed. 1475 and into the Parks 50. Normalizing also needs no time at temperature. So it seems that I should be able to hit my temperatures w/o too much trouble?
    My other option, and what I planned on doing, is to scrap the tank as is, do another with two burner ports. And make a high low solenoid/PID controlled dual burner blown forge...
    It would have a Low burner that when running would get the temps to say 1400 degrees max. The high burner controlled by the PID would boost the temperature to whatever I set. The PID's fuzzy logic figures out how long the burner needs to stay on, and I will "learn" to correct for overshoots.
    Option B. Make a blown forge w/PID so I can read the thermocouple, and use it for forging. Then buy an Evenheat to do my heat treat. I want to do some stock removal kitchen knives with some PG O-1 and that needs the 5-6 minute soak times.

    I need a smaller, somewhat portable forge now. I don't have the space for a drum forge. Besides, that drum forge would have 3 times the mass to heat than my freon tank, wouldn't it? Even if they only added a skim coat of refractory to keep the ceramic blanket from being damaged?


    Matt Bower
    Let me just say that I do my heat treating in a solid fuel forge because I also don't have the room for a drum forge, and I have not been satisfied with the propane forges that I've tried for blades. Even using a pipe muffle in a propane forge, I have never been able to achieve the sort of gentle, even heat that I want for heat treating. But I have not tried one exactly like what you're planning, so perhaps I shouldn't have been so forceful in saying it won't give the results you want. I don'tthink it will, but that's just speculation on my part. Not entirely uninformed speculation, but speculation nevertheless. With that said . . .

    Even with the burner coming in on a tangent to create a swirl, you're going to have direct flame impingement on the interior that's going to create a hot spot. So while the rest of the forge is heating by conduction/convection, you'll have an area there that will be putting off a lot of radiant heat, and the closer you get to that spot the hotter it'll be. The hot spot may be bigger than with a burner that's oriented toward the center axis of the forge, and you won't get direct flame impingement on the blade, both of which are good things. But it'll still be a hot spot, and I think it'll still cause you problems. However, as I said, that's just informed speculation. I could be wrong.

    I have given some thought to how to reproduce the effect of a drum forge in a smaller package, but all my ideas are untested theory so I'm a little reluctant to throw them out. I will offer one suggestion that you might try, if your design doesn't work out as hoped. I have tried a muffle in a propane forge with poor success -- the muffle just developed a hot spot where the hot spot in the forge was -- but the muffle was fairly thin. A thicker muffle might do better, especially with your design. I have considered a ceramic muffle of some sort, but the prices of mullite and similar tubes are pretty intimidating just for experimentation. You might be able to do it with castable refractory.

    The drum forges usually don't have any castable in them. Just some ridigizer to lock own the fiber particles. (I suspect the rigidizer is just sodium silicate or something similar.)

    I'll try to get to your other questions later.


    Dodge
    Rolling the burner flame helps IMHO, but there's still a hot spot. Two smaller burners can produce more BTUs than one large burner and be able to spread out your heat. There will be two hotspots but if they are aimed correctly, the overall result is more even heat. Still maybe not critical enough for exotic alloys but for overall forging you'd be happier. I'd also cut a back door. That's just me, but being able to heat the middle of long material comes in handy at times. :)

    Edit: I was still typing when Matt posted, but what he said. :D As for mufflers or baffles, I believe this is how many glass furnaces work; a short wall between the burner(s), often ribbon type in design, and the main business area of the furnace.



    Matt Bower
    OK, a few other thoughts.

    First, drum forges are mainly for heat treating swords. I think the design is scalable to a certain extent for smaller blades; if you're planning on doing 10-inch Bowies or kitchen knives you wouldn't need a 55-gallon drum. You might be able to apply the same principle to a smaller burner in a 5-gallon steel bucket lined with an inch of ceramic wool.

    As for the thicker refractory stabilizing the temperatures, I guess that's true, although something the size of a blade doesn't really suck out all that much heat. But it'd also make the temperatures slower to adjust. (It occurs to me that with a really massive forge you might actually be able to run it up to temperature, cut the burner off, and use the residual heat in the forge to heat-treat with. However, I've never tried it, or had a forge that massive to experiment with!)

    I'm not quite sure I follow what you mean about hitting your temps with 1084. Yes, it's fairly easy to heat treat well, but hot spots will still cause problems.

    1084 will benefit from a short soak at austenitizing temperatures (1-2 minutes. at the temperatures you're talking about). If you really want a near-zero soak you'll want to go a bit hotter, more like 1525 degrees Fahrenheit. 1084 will still make a good blade with what you're planning. Frankly, there's always a certain amount of soak time built into the process, because you're bound to spend a little time eyeballing the blade and deciding whether it is fully up to critical. Roman Landes (German metallurgist) has a post about soak times for 1084 over on hypefreeblades.com. Roman is one of a few people I pay very careful attention to when it comes to the metallurgy of heat treating.

    If you really want the best of both worlds, I think your option B is it. Forges aren't ideal for heat treating, and heat treating furnaces aren't ideal for forging. If you leave heat treating out of the equation, it becomes much simpler to design a good propane forge. A thermocouple on the forge seems like an overkill to me, but it won't hurt anything.

    It is possible to build your own electric heat treating furnace, BTW, and it should be quite a bit cheaper than the commercial HIT furnaces I've seen, which are all quite expensive by my standards. Plus, DIY would let you choose the dimensions to suit what you want to do. All the commercial furnaces I've seen seem more or less oversized for blades, even most of the Paragon ones designated as being for knifemakers. (Although having a little extra capacity for heat-treating tooling and the like, isn't necessarily a bad thing.)


    Fluidsteel
    Long term I would plan on building a salt pot, and getting an oven as well. For now, I'm stuck with a forge. I'm going by the shop today. I might pick up a solenoid and put together a couple new tanks and make a blown forge instead. I honestly don't have much time or money in the venturi burner or the tank itself. More time doing the WIP post actually....
    Maybe buy a box of crayons too.... and make a ribbon forge burner...

    I'm ADD... Can't stay on, look at that anvil, topic long... It's easy to change direction for me if it's not the best choice for what I want to do.

    Thanks for the link on the heat treat. I greatly respect Kevin Cashen.... I soak up all the info I can on heat treating..!

    This is a short reply.. I'll think about all this and decide which way to go.

    Matt Bower
    I'm pretty interested in ribbbon burners, too, but according to folks here who've built and/or used them, they don't tune down well. So that's not really what you want for heat-treating, if that's still your plan.

    Phil Krankowski
    I'm pretty interested in ribbbon burners, too, but according to folks here who've built and/or used them, they don't tune down well. So that's not really what you want for heat-treating, if that's still your plan.

    BTW, my forge is 150 cu inches. It gets melting hot and sips propane.

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