Steve Sells

Glenn conned me into writing my first book,  

It started as me just cleaning up the chat room knife talks, getting rid of the normal banter of a chat room, then it was organizing the stuff into coherent grouping,  then filling out the missing information,  after about one year of that then filling in what Rich and I never got around to writing, next thing ya know I have a book, which I never would have done if Glenn had just came out and said I needed to write a book in the first place...

that was my fault I changed it back, I miss-read the title, Dyslexia can be funny at times, I saw a typo where there wasnt one

Since you are not used to heat treating, I honestly suggest hire it out, its not usually very costly, and you should get the best from your steel that way.  To maybe save a little money  allow them to HT with another batch rather than having to do your asap will save a little on cost

and for the record I never threatened to ban anyone nor, do I have a problem with sarcasm

There is nothing about flame hardening, just quench hardening mainly because I dont know anything about flame hardening. so I asked, My pinned post does explain how hardening happens, so changing the method of how we trap carbon in the iron matrix does not make more carbon appear, either its there in the first place or it isnt, so unless other things are added as in a surface treatment of more carbon or nitriding, then as quenched is as hard as it is going to get which iirc was also covered in the pinned post

The heat treat info is posted here free already, pinned partly in knife section, the rest in general heat treating, and book links are in the stores book section, and there is always using the inter library loan if you dont want to buy it.

I asked how flame hardening will make it harder than quench hardening, sorry if that hurt your feelings

Very few things have been sent in so far.  I dont know what is wrong

not sure how a flame hardening would get it from 45 quenched to 60, please explain

Busy lately, give us a little time to create it,  then transfer over the threads

Topics get created after we discover there are enough threads to justify them existing

5500K is near daylight for reference lower numbers ie 4600K are red/oranger tint

First you cant smelt bronze.  You can smelt tin and you can smelt copper, then blend them to make bronze. Second make a well to hold a supply of the bronze to prevent the final item from shrinkage, third after MELTING the bronze preheat the mold to near casting temperatures, and fourth you should de gas the liquid before pouring

Have you taken a casting class yet?

57 minutes ago, northmanlogging said:

hrm... lessee if I get another warning from the mods... 4 posts, 4 rather childish warnings, excellent way to welcome new members BTW

If you had actually read the rules when you joined as requested, then you could have avoided the warnings. they are not that hard to follow for the other 60,000 members here

The color purple is commonly used for switch legs, and FYI when I had a lot of switches in one box in a church, I used the high voltage colors as switch legs so I can keep track of things. IE yellow orange brown and well as purple

I second Frosty statement of scrap it, and use the money to buy appropriate gauge stock to stamp out coinage from, you will get a guaranteed quality that way as well

after I get enough to make something

nope . nothing for a while :( we dont have much in

try researching Blister steel

In answer to your questing about carbonizing steel, Yes I can do it, can you? maybe, maybe not but it costs more than buying the correct steel in the first place

using rebar for the spring? I hope your life and medical insurance is paid up, also I doubt it will take the heat treat in the first place

thats why I first suggested letting them sag sorry I dont pay for them, I just install them, see my PM

Another option is to use an ERICSON, since that is for threaded pipe, you will need terminate each piece of pipe with a box connector

a photo showing size will help cant tell it its 1/2 HP or 20 HP from that photo  lol

look at the expansion joints, they are required in long runs so the supply store should have some

I would remove straps for a bit and let it sag, which will take up some of the extra length to allow you to couple, that doesn't work then getting a expansion joint may be the only option

No need to calculate, NEC section 430 lists all motors and their voltages, amperage's and Hp ratings, look it up

I was hoping for the Frankenstein jokes to start