Stefflus
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This video shows the same grinding procedure prior to and after hardening, the sparks are actually richer as hardened, contrary to my guess. @ ca. 17min and 20min
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Post your Favorite Blacksmithing Video
Stefflus replied to Borntoolate's topic in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
ok new favourite. First a smith hand forging nails, then two making different kinds of shoes for oxen. All with breakneck speed. Swedish television, but access for all countries. Oh yes, and it's a mute from 1923. http://www.svtplay.se/klipp/98725/spik-och-oxskosmide-samt-enbladig-ramsag-utan-ljud-1923?tab=klipp&sida=2 -
Blacksmith / Forging Simulator
Stefflus replied to ForgingSimulation's topic in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
Maybe Minecraft happened and pulled the rug. I would absolutely want to see something interactive like this in a Minecraft-like game, tho.. -
Even if you use a norwegian navar my guess is you would need supports to guide the tool, somewhat like a lathe. This is essentially a scaled down version of the water pipes we've been making with the navar for centuries, it is still turned by hand even if the diameter is 3", but with the tool and workpiece clamped down (with the tool in wooden greased bearings). And by the way, my school has been affiliated with a number of flute makers, one of them (from your approximate area if I remember correctly) made flutes out of very snaked branches. He burnt them hollow. Yet another, but less cool way is obviously to make it in two halves. I'll ask around tomorrow or tuesday.
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Yeah I would check out Håvard Bergland's book, an english edition exists. In this book there is a small chapter on Norwegian gimlets (navar). These are cupped and the cutting edge thinned, most often in a die, prior to twisting. Then they are straightened and over-cupping hammered out, before sharpening. Grinding on the outside, filing the inside. They are regarded as the most difficult item to do well in this country however. Anyone can make one, but few can make them well. One needs to be finicky about getting the point absolutely in the right spot, and the heat treat has to be spot on so it doesn't break. In the old days they were laminated, and with appreciably harder edges. For your use I would consider a spoon bit, unless you like the challenge. Or you could get Håvard or some other smith to make one. According to the norwegian book "Navarsmeden", a smith named Trond Gaustad apprenticed with legend Edvin Odland, he might be availabe?
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Yeah this needs trying. My guess based on fuzzy remembering (I wasn't looking for this, I was just grinding) is that one might get "leaner" and shorter sparks due to the particles ground being smaller and fewer
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quint, I was told Ball bearings were 52100 because of the higher pressures involved, and Roller bearings like these were most often some kind of case hardened low-medium carbon steel.
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I'll be following this on the edge of my seat, then :) Did the client want parallell tangs, or are you planning on grinding a taper?
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Chinobi, I'm guessing it's lead free I'm dabbling with in this case, since it's not very old, and it used to be salad sporks. I'm being hygienic about it tho, just in case. And it's so much better than plasticene for practice! Plasticene has friction against the anvil surface, and that really messes up practicing with a hammer. Only drawback with tin/pewter is it's not practical to localize heat to make an upset.
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I made a pewter billet approx. 1/2"x1/2" by 8", and forged it a bit just to see how it behaved. (Working in the house since it's winter and I have smithing itch, so I'm gonna hammer it down to 1/8" or so, then draw it into wire). The raw material (a pair of spoons) forged happily when cold, but the billet didn't, it wanted to crack. Poured myself a mug of hot water, and used this as a "forge", but still cracking. Is this a large-dendrite issue? Based on my hunch, I remelted and poured a new billet, this time dunking it in water just as it solidified. Also I'm heating it over a candle to approx 100 C +. This works well, but obviously I changed two variables at once.
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Thanks fellas! 60% translates to about 30C, so I could just hold it in my hand for a while or put it in the oven at 50C. I was fearing I would have to be living on the edge, real close to the melting temp..
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Many different alloys involved in this question, but it is doable to find the melting temperature for each. -Could the annealing temperature be expressed as a constant relative to these melting temperatures? -Do these even need annealing, do they work harden?
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I like a transition with thin stock before the handle starts to absorb shocks, because these tools can really give you one if you're working on an irregular anvil face.
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Don't know where to get them? But aren't diamond hones nickel? I might have some old ones.
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I really like artsy blacksmith films, they are incredibly relaxing but still inspiring. -Very nice, thank you! Personally I would prefer a hint of colour during the forging though. Also it's so nice to see your no-fuss quality approach, with forged tangs. The fact that this shows in the pattern is purely positive in my book. I mention this because I was watching some other patternwelding-videos last night, and it was kind of sad to see how much work and effort went into essentially weakening the product, by cutting the tang and filing very sharp corners in it just to make it look crisp. I'm not trying to make a point here, I just realized it might seem like I was, just wanted to say I appreciate it.
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My impression is scale, slag and bits of coal doesn't constitute much of a problem until you get the workpiece close to welding temperature, that is, the need to brush is linear to the temperature. That also means it should be unnecessary to have this problem with mild steel unless you're trying to weld it. (Although I'm along with jmccustomknives view for practice purpose and efficiency) My pictureless guess is the pits are slag or coal hammered into the steel.
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I think someone wants me to go with meteorite: http://www.nrk.no/hordaland/her-krasjer-meteoritten-med-jorden-1.11404904 200 lbs worth of it crashed and scattered around, this is a little eerie..
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Yup I'd forgot about nickel rods, that might be the way to go :) Thanks, guys
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This is at least a year down the line, I'm planning way ahead, but I was thinking 4-5 lbs. crucible ingots
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Something like this could last 10 crucible batches, so the price is reasonable: http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-9-Pure-Elemental-Nickel-Metal-Square-11-Ounces-oz-Bullion-FREE-SHIPPING-/370947735502?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item565e353fce Still I wonder where to find 2515, roller bearings? etc
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Pure nickel, meteorite or something like 2515 would be preferable, since the target percentage would be in the area 1-2%. L6 and 15N20 is approx. 2%, so then there's no room for the bloomery material. Also L6 has chrome in it and I was looking for a chromeless or low chrome alternative
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Oh, that's very interesting, and a possible weekend trip also! I don't think we've ever had a Nickel smelting plant here though, maybe we just exported the ore to Britain or Russia? However, after reading this: http://www.ifc.org/wps/wcm/connect/469da18048855b7f891cdb6a6515bb18/nickel_PPAH.pdf?MOD=AJPERES I think its out of the question to go the "ore" route. If going for making pure nickel as a first step, then partly because of the significant roasting, plus the blast desulfirizing afterwards, mainly because of the fumes, it could be doable but not cheap. And the other method of just dropping nickel ore in an iron bloom smelt. Again with the roasting, the fumes now freely flowing from the stack and still it looks like one would get high sulfur since it's not refined. PS. There actually is one, "Xtrata Nikkelverk" in Kristiansand, been there since 1910, maybe I'll have to have a look It was once called Falconbridge, and this rings a bell, how could I forget?
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Yes sorry for contributing to the wrong use of "damascus" steel, it is so common to just say it here when meaning pattern welded steel, it's second nature. But you are technically correct, the best kind of correct :) The goal here is to avoid bought steels like L6 and 15N20, and make a homemade version of it based on bloomery material. In light of this meteorite would be ideal, but for trial runs and such it would be great to sort out the sources, and 2515 looks like a good candidate. If pure nickel can be bought in small quantities that would be of interest.
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I've been asking myself what I would use to up the Ni in crucible steel if I wanted to make my own high contrast crucible steel damascus. I'd like something high in Nickel, and low in everything else, so I was looking at SAE 2515. In what kind of applications would this be found as scrap? Roller bearings? Other suggestions? I doubt I can find any FeNi or pure Ni locally. And I haven't been struck by any meteorites lately. We are the knights who say Ni!
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http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?term=upset&allowed_in_frame=0 "mid-15c., "to set up, fix," from up + set (v.). Cf. Middle Dutch opsetten, German aufsetzen. Modern sense of "overturn, capsize" (1803) is that of obsolete overset. Meaning "to throw into mental discomposure" is from 1805. The noun sense of "overturning of a vehicle or boat" is recorded from 1804." To me it makes sense as "setting up what we need for later". In my language it's "Stuke", which originally meant "being stiff", and is related to "Stokk"(log), and thereby also english "Stock" (as in: "you need more stock if you wanna make that")