Bigred1o1

i live in norther Vermont i have found three anvils(114 William foster, 120missing part of its face mouse hole,158missing heal mouse hole) in usable if damaged shape from scrap yards and one good haybudden120lb) from CL as well i have a fisher anvil that is 120lb but the feet are crumbling(face and horn are in fantastic shape) my main anvil is a 195lb PW that had a slight swayback "fixed" at some point in the past still very usable but by no means my dream anvil i have had and passed on a 100lb kohlsw a 120colonial and a 80lb fisher as well my scrap yard anvils get lent out i am still looking for a good 200-300lb anvil that i can afford this has been in about 10years of looking i knew where there were several but they have sins been scrapped i dont know if this counts as anvil rich or anvil pore but finding an anvil in good condition has been hard

i would put it in the mid range noise wise it rings but even just being set on a stump loose it dose not have pipes on it that some anvils do next time i can i will try and get a photo of it to show you the little stubby horn that it has

i found a William Foster anvil in one of the local scrapyards that was dated 1832 and the step on that one as well as the horn are both look undersized for the 114lb weight of the anvil i think this just might be the way they were made that anvil as well has fantastic rebound and is a pleasure to work on

Mosley yup the set up i have could be and has been used inside as well as outside most of the welding i did on mine was cosmetic and convenience the only hard part i fabbing up without welding would be the ring to fit the pipe onto but i bet with a little fiddling it could be done as it is the front and back panel are just screwed on so that when they burn out i can replace them with minimal hassle

well i had a bit of free time on my hands tonight and thought you might enjoy having that photo tweaked a bit to mach your the look of your blade

glad i could help I am looking forward to seeing what yours ends up looking like it was kind of interesting to see what the specks were as i was lazy and could not find find a measuring tape when i made it i did it by eye (and some string) going by what would fit and making one side look like the other

ok i took some photos and measurements and i am a visual person so i combined the 2 as well i forgot to have the pipe size in the photo this is set up for a 9inch pipe as a side note the mounting for the chimney was just some 1 1/2 piece of plat stock that i bent to the rough C shape i wanted fitted inside the pipe and tacked in place on one side and then bumped it over about a 1/8th of a inch and tacked the other side this gave me just enough play to take the chimney off and on when i move it i did add in some stove sement between the channel steel and the sheet metal as i hammered the sheet metal flat and i wanted to make sure that there were no leaks to steal my draw if you have any questions feel free to ask

sounds perfect jim i was debating how to finish off the opening that sounds like a perfect add on dcraven i will head out to the shop after finish up lunch and some computer work and do some measurements and toss em up here

the last post i made in the topic has my side draft set up for my portable forge and that'?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> topic (see link below) has my side draft set up for my portable forge and that's the draw on it with 4ft of ten inch wide pipe sticking out of the top of it so far i am quite happy with it i know if i had a bigger expansion chamber on it it would most likely draw better but that was what there was room for and even with a light breeze blowing it still draw 75% of the smoke up and away the link was goofing up my post so sticking it down here and crossing my fingers '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>>

yeah i have to say i would have been interested just in looking at what they had out of curiosity i thought they would at least have left a name up for people to google

thanks John GoG i will keep poking around looking for a catalog of forges and the like partly just out of curiosity as to what ells was or could be mounted in the different holes in the forge body i am very happy with a fix i came up with for the stabilizing the blower and firepot i removed them flattened out the warped sheet metal and when i re-bolted down the firepot i added angle iron brackets that are the same width as the firepot to replace the quarter sized washers that were present beforehand this really clamps the firepot in place and spreads out the stress from turning the crank on the blower over a larger aria i had some free time yesterday and decided to to fab up a removable side draft (its ugly but made entirely of scrap) the mouth is just sheet metal until i am sure i like the size of the opening then i will reinforce it the over all shape is fine but i wish there had been more room so i could have made the body deeper but between the need for clearance for the blower handle and not wanting to feed it to the fire pot what you see is what i could fit in feel free to recommend improvements all i have invested in it is some time and some fire on a side note i cant remember where on here i saw someone talking about cutting using welding rod but man did that com in handy when on a Sunday i realized i was out of oxygen so no cutting torch for me ( i have ten lb of bad rod that is about 8years old and very damp that worked like a charm) longwinded yes but some what productive

even a good anvil makes a good boat anchor sure this is not a pritty anvil but if its inexpensive and it should be with the damage to the face check the rebound on whats left and if its good then have at it the edges and the fact that the part of the face of the anvil that is intact is flat and the horn and hardie hole are both in good shape all in all it sure looks like its still usable i would love a anvil like that to keep in the shop as a have at it anvil for beginners {provided the rebound is good} just my 2 cents

judson nope i got this from a guy that lives down the river from me he got it from a guy in Canada back in the early 70s so its moved about 40 miles south in the last 40 or so years i remembered seeing it in the basement of his barn a few years back when i was dropping off some logs for his sawmill and we got a bit distracted i was tempted to go the silicone adhesive rout but i came across a sheet or cork gasket material and thought it would be nice to put it back as close as i could to what used to be there the observations on the selling a blacksmithing kit is a great one i am going to have to keep in mind and see about fleshing one out jim the idea of of doing the pipe unions is a great one but i don't know if it would work with this forge body as it is a stamped sheet metal one but on the plus side it makes the hole thing light enough to just pick up and pop in the back of the truck as to the flu i was thinking along similar lines and i am just going to have to think on the best way to make one that is stable yet detachable and as you say i definitely see myself keeping i just need to mange to make some dry hay and then i hope to have the time to get her oiled up and fired up

i seem to remember having the dentist come after me with something that looked alot like that but then that might have just been me seeing things as i went under

thanks Jim that means its all there just wobbly the blower and and firepot move as a unit side to side i might just have to see if i can get the firepot unbolted and see about truing up the sheet metal so that the firepot makes contact all the way around this might help with the wobble as to the set screw i will be popping it out the next time i have a forge fired up and put a square head on it it a real treat to find that the handle was a good fit i picked it up for a buck at a yard sale a year or so ago and dropped it in with the other older odds ends i keep in my you never know pile on a side note any idea what a forge like this is worth i know what i payed for it and it was a good deal even with the wear on the some of the blower parts and i am thinking i should come up with a good forged thank you project i can add in out of the blue

it really comes down to what shape the inner gears are in and how smoothly it runs that seems a bit pricy but in my op still not a bad deal if its in good shape internally

i ended up just making a cork gasket and so far no leaks so i am happy now just to stabilize the blower and fire pot section

i recently got a Canadian forge and blower 700 blower that was disassembled and i am hoping someone here knows if there was supposed to be some sort of gasket between the blower bodied and the cap the case that goes over the gears it seems like it needs something to keep keep the oil from just draining out as well it had no handle when i picked it up so i jumped into my pile of scrap and came up with one that fits but i am hoping someone has a photo of what the handle should look like so i can keep an eye out over all i am looking forward to getting this forge back up and running the previous owner said it had not had a fire lit in it since 1985 i have done some browsing around and i cant find any real info on the company i am hoping to find some photos of what this forge set up should look like as i am hoping some brackets are missing sins there is quite a bit of wobble in the blower and firepot set up when you turn the crank the entire assembly is attached to the forge table with three bolts in a row so no side to side stabilization well even if there are not supposed to be any i have a feeling i will be add some as this is destined to become my portable forge and it never hurts to over build in my op well unless you are attempting to get the thing off the ground well thanks for your thoughts

junkpost

i helped put in 2 over in NY about 10 years ago so they do still pop up now and then

i want him to weld fins on to it

what never seen a hammer headed anvil before

woops did not even realize that was the forge under there as well you might want to reconsider the cone shape as getting ash and clinkers out of there will be a bit of a pain a simple T shaped pipe fitting will give you far less problems with your air intake off to one side '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> a quick search of the gallery let me snag this photo hope it helps

the only problem with this set up is that the hardies tools could mushroom at the point of contact with the base and you will get stuck when you try to take them out

must have been one xxxxxx off company