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I Forge Iron

Lateralus

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About Lateralus

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  1. Ah cool, do you have pics from the similar forge? Yeah, I agree, I suppose the brick pile forge will be very universal, though I doubt how often I will place the bricks in another configuration haha. I do think I'll replace the back wall often together with the use of one or two burners. What do you mean by the inbuilt problems? I designed another door system. Thanks Frosty for convincing me. I hope this one will work OK.
  2. I don't really understand, do you mean you also want to built a brick pile forge? What do you use your mini-forges for?
  3. Frosty you are right, thanks, I searched up a bit on skewing and it turns out it is independent of the forces added by the counterweight, it depends only on the angles and the length/width ratio of the slider. I'll need to come up with a new door system In the formula, d will give the minimum length needed for skewing, so it can also show the minimum length for a, which in my case will be 732mm which is way more than I have designed right now
  4. Yes the door is tricky. But did you notice that both inner tubes have big steel counter weights (not shown in the drawing because it sits inside the tube), one left and one right, in total the same weight as the whole door, and the connection with the cable and pulley (also not drawn)? The opening stud will be mounted in the center (left-right-center) of the door.
  5. The walls of the forge itself are made from 2800 degrees F insulating fire brick. The small bricks surrounding the forge are regular yellow fire bricks. Yes I always end up making complicated designs I wanted a forge that will last and is easy to rebuild and easy to move to my next workshop. No hoods taking of the wall for instance. The hood can be taken of the frame so the frame will fit under the doorway of my shop. I will test the door sliding mechanism fist, the amount of skew will determine what kind of door opener stud I will weld on it, possibly a 5 inch rod that can be g
  6. Hi everybody, I just found out it has been 10 years since I last logged in to this forum. Time flies. Anyway, I really appreciate it still being very active and full of supportive people. The pages about Frosty's burner really helped me out. I had some problems with forge welding more difficult damascus patterns and I partly blamed my current single venturi burner gas forge. For big billets I had to put the choke sleeve fully open in order to have enough heat, but I guess all the oxygen also contributed to some bad welds. I also had a hot spot in the middle, so
  7. .... too late.. i've got some conversion questions, i'm in europe so i need to convert the plans to the metric system. 1. I think, black pipe 1" schedule 80, means a wall thickness of 4,5mm? And for 1" sch 40, 3,4mm? ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schedule_40 ) 2. Round HR/CR, what does that mean? Hot rolled / ...? Is this simple round stock, or is it precision axle? 3. What means gage? Subject is sheet metal.
  8. thanks. (if i may ask,) How much did you spent on the complete hammer?
  9. Thanks, I think it's well built! Looks really good! What about the wheels, is it doable to drive the hammer around the shop? And is the wood necessary?
  10. an adjustable treadle spring... that's the spring that makes the treadle come back up? Why would you ajust that? So you can adjust how much pressure you should give with your foot? And why did you make it removable? Maybe you could post some pics? :-) Thanks for your help!
  11. Thanks, I called him, he's teaching a class right now. Thanks!
  12. Hi, I want to buy the design plans for the Clay Spencer tire hammer, can somebody confirm that I got the right email address? clay@tirehammer.com Kind regards, Johan
  13. yeah, i think this is the first railroad spike knive i like!
  14. i was thinking about making one like this one too.. But does it have enough pressure to do some damascus? How many PSI compressor do you have?
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