metalmangeler

A handled fuller can be set more exatly than most of us can swing a hammer. However you need a way for it to be hit while you are holding it so a striker power hammer or tredle hammer of some sort may help. A bottom fuller (as in hardie hole tool) will work the other side of your work while you work the top, this will help for making a shoulder or just moveing matieral rapidly often a smith will use an anvil edge or horn as a bottom fulller.

I have no idea how one posts a picture. Also expect that I would need the newer type camras to do it. The hood is just made of sheet metal fitted to a 10 inch stove pipe that I am running out side through a high vent although through the roof would be better. The hood is 3 X 4 feet over the entire forge.

Jay I forge in the winter with only one window open as it gets cool here. I also have a hood over my forge partly to remove CO, but also to remove water which is a major byproduct of burning propane. You need a CO detector as stated. If you are running to rich the consequences are much more deadly than having scale or difficulty forge welding, which are the consequences of running to lean, running lean does use up your oxygen so you need to replace that too. If your forge burners are not adjustable then if your CO detector is finding CO you will have to add more ventilation irregardless of how much you have. If there is no detectable amounts you will need to have enough ventilation to replace the air you are using for your fire. If it is cold condensation can be a big problem for the building, assuming you are doing lots of forging.

Hi Frosty it looks like that one is the new improved version. I found that I have one left from the fair. I may let you see it for a fee.;)

Hey Divermike if it works and you are not selling it, then it is likely pretty enough, unless the customers might see it. Sometimes I make tools to get the job done, sometimes for bragging rights this looks like it should get the job done to me. :)

As stated in the first 2 posts you mark the hot metal with your stick at those temps. when useing a lower temp. (I think 600F or less) you can mark the steel first as you did. Perhaps you misread the directions.

Floor? What is that? Anyone who's ever seen my mess will like the looks of your shop.

If the punches and drifts get hot they would be better made from h-13 as stated, I would think that if you can heat treat it close to right then it should work fine for a shaping hammer as would truck Axel or heavy coil spring.

When I am shoeing sometimes my handle loosens up (about 1 or 2 times a summer) if I wait till I am home and do something the right way such as linseed oil I never think about it untill I am being agrivated again. I find that if I dip my hammer in the quench bucket for about the time it takes to heat shoes or less that is all that you need to add enough water. I think that the big problem with water is "if a little is good a lot must be better." That said I do believe that linseed oil or glueing are better. For removeing handles I saw them off flush and use a punch to drive the wood out over a hole rather than drilling.

As you mentioned the monkey tool will tend to mushroom on the struck end. You can head this off by rounding the struck end when you make the tool and then dressing it as you use it, you don't add any value to your work with the addition of blood. I make mine from mild steel drill for round ones drill and drift then reheat to remove drift/mandrel for square or rectangular ones.

Hi Doc It might be a good idea to think about the 4 inch rule as the 70 year old man may not live there forever. Even here the banks do expect railings to be to code if they are loaning money to the buyer. This could be done on the elk design with smaller work to fill in the larger openings. Or it could be done in the other design mentioned pretty easily and certainly you could do it in the traditional design you were thinking of maybe doing, that is one of the nice things about scrolls. Ballisters are also pretty easy to put closer than 4 inches to each other, if they are made of small rod it makes the railing less obtrusive than a wood railing would be and it sounds like you have plenty of small stock to work with and since the frame is made you are really in the more enjoyable aspect of the job now. I hope you have a good time doing this job.:)

If you forge V jaw tongs they should work for both round and square stock. Make the same number you had planned just more sizes.

Make or buy another hammer then you will have 2 styles to use, this is more ecconomical time wise than investing time into changeing a good hammer to get a different good hammer. Also if your shop is like mine then maybe you will be able to find one when you need a hammer.

I agree with what the others have said, you can just ease off on the commitments to be at some show for awhile and during that time when not under pressure you can stock up on inventory, or better yet forge the things that you would like. One thing never changes for me though I always feel like I don't have enough stuff when I am doing a show, and I normally bring a full pickup load with me.

As ussual I am opperating in ignorance. I would think that stealing scrap would be as much work as a real job. If they do a complete job at least my wife will be happy.;)

Presently I have no insurance specifically for blacksmithing. I worry a lot more about liabillity issues than fire, fire of coures would do in the power tools and the heat treatment of most of my blacksmithing tools but most of the hand tools I made so I should be able to reheat treat them. It is really hard to say what a thief would take, he might really get you or he might only take things he could identify. We have motion detector lights which I think helps some I also think loud dogs help a lot. I can see a thief getting drills, grinders, welders, but I doubt that most would see much value in power hammer dies or drifts.

I think the new Saymac has another dovetail in the anvil to help align dies rather than using shims.

Hi Valentin I seem to be sporadic enough that I had not seen this before, and now seems like to late to be any help. For future projects I think you could make dies that work on the diamond or V by taking a master and forging the dies over it, you will need to use a method of keeping your dies aligned. On smaller dies a spring die I am unsure if it would work that large but I sure don't see why not. With closed dies you would need to grind relief around the edges so you could forge out the flashing. Just some ideas, hopefully by the time you read this you will be finished and have a pocket full of cash.:)

I don't really have a moto but I will say this, If the women don't find you handsome or handy they will still be able to find you by following the dirty tracks across the clean floor.

I am bringing stuff to sell so I don't know how much other stuff will fit in the truck. If I do any demonstrations I will likely need to use someones anvil and fire, I will try to bring some hand tools as I can fit them in easy enough. Is your arm OKed for lifting or would you like some help loading stuff?

Jerry don't discount the spring swedge idea that is how I make pins/long rivets for hinges. If you are doing very many it works really well, you also need to shoulder the tool to stay in the vice nicely. If I remember I will throw it in the truck so you can see on Sat.

I don't see why people talk down about RR track anvils. Looks good to me.:)

I need a dumpster that never gets full.

More and different tongs are always a good idea.:)

Another possibility is that your liner is not in good shape.