irnsrgn

expanded metal, what is called 1/2 inch

negative effect like Paw Paw, DEAD.

the flatter the cap the better, too much of a funnel shape and it creates a blockage. read my Blue print on fire and smoke as it describes how it works and also give a tip for increasing the flow so it draws more. BP0046

I developed a problem with one of my toenails contracting nail fungus and the ads on TV push a pill that has nasty side effects. I read this in the DR. Gott Column of the local newspaper and originally laughed at it, but I finally tried it and it worked. Just smear the toenail with Vicks VapoRub. I have no idea if it will work on everyone, but its better than overpriced pills you ingest that have nasty side effects.

So many things are listed as (MUTTRICK) Metric measurements today I thought this conversion chart would be helpful to those of us who are not familiar with or who do not use Metrics. http://www.lenntech.com/unit-conversion-calculator/temperature.htm This url is for temperature but other conversion calculators are on the right side, just click on the one you prefer. JUST REMEMBER TO CHANGE THE DECIMAL TO 4 PLACES AT THE LITTLE DROP DOWN MENU.

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP0248 Old Twisters by Jr Strasil, Glenn Conner A tap handle and tap with a 12 inch steel rule for size. Making a twist, I always localize the end to keep from damaging the tap handle when hot twisting. Depending on the size of the twisting job, this shows the various sizes of tap handles available, from the little one in front for machine screw sizes, to the one at back which will handle a 2 inch pipe tap. View full article

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP0247 Carving Blocks by Irnsrgn My carving sculpting jigs. My conventional carving sculpting jig. My version, I prefer to work my animal heads in an upright position as it is easier for me to work both sides as my vise is accessible from only one side. The two main eye punches I use. View full article

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP0237 Toys by Irnsrgn My large bevel square, 27 inches long, body of 3/16 by 1 1/2 aluminum stock and blade of 1/8 by 1 1/2 stainless stock, both with a jeweled finish. A 24 inch by 16 inch framing square for size. Open position #1. Open Position #2. My first pipe holding clamp, it works well with angle iron, square stock and round stock also. I use chain vice grips for holding, main body is 1/2 by 2 flat stock and the machined V's are 3/8 by 3 flat stock flame cut and then machined. I have 2 of these one in the shop and one in the portable rig. This one has a machined adjustable slope so different sized material may be centered and welded. These are two different styles, I have another small one in the portable truck they are handy for joining small stock. This 90 degree angle iron jig is used mostly on the outside but I use the inside for joining pipe at 90 degrees, notice the corner is cut out for ease of welding. This 90 degree channel iron jig is used mostly on the inside, but the outside gets used for larger pipe occasionally. This 90 degree jig of 2 inch channel iron is mostly clamped to the bench for line up of material along the outside. This is a 45 degree line up jig for clamping to the bench its 1/2 by 2 flat material. This is an adjustable jig I use for lining up the posts on stair railings and sloped ramps to get them all the same angle. A view of the other side. My jigs for welding things square to a flat surface, one large and one small. Two of my roller jigs, the one on the right has roller skate wheels on it and has two positions, in this picture one is wide and the other narrow. The back side of the right one. This is an unusual one as it is infinitely adjustable from 180 degrees thru 90 degrees, its not all that strong so care must be taken when using it. The other side of the jig and at a 90 degree. These are my quick patterns for 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 divisions, they are just cardboard with a small hole in the center that a scribe can be pushed thru set in a center punch mark and the pattern pushed down and clamped then marks my be put in the openings on the outside and then using the center punch mark, extended as far as needed. View full article

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP0249 Graphic Anvil Abuse by Irnsrgn Tonight we are going off in a rather delicate area and some of the pictures are very GRAPHIC in nature. This will show the ABUSE inflicted on a 68 lb anvil and some photos of the surgical procedures used to bring her back to some kind of normal existence. If you have a weak stomach or are prone to fainting or light headedness, please refrain from watching. Please rejoin us in about 10 minutes for the discussion part. The surgical procedures were a success and the child can now resume an almost normal life as she has been adopted by a very caring father and mother. Again we must warn you that some of the pictures are very GRAPHIC in nature. Thank You The Surgery begins with general grafting procedures. After Grafting is done, the plastic surgeon does his work and After a short stay in the recovery room, it is now ready to meet her new owner. Beacher: Is it necessary to preheat before laying the bead on? Irn: Smoked with acetylene only, then preheated it till the soot disappears. IronWolf: What's the RC of that rod irn ? Irn: You need a high manganese rod to prevent crushing. Crouching is the rolling over of the edges of the anvil from extended use, or using too heavy a hammer. View full article

you would probably be better off with a side draft chimney, it will function better than a hood. and 10 inches is about right. http://www.iforgeiron.com/Blueprints/BP0046Fire_and_Smoke_05/BP-0046Fire_and_Smoke_05.htm

Almost all in one place on a base with rod handles so the whole kit and kabodle can be picked up at once.

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP0232 SIDE BLOWN DEMO FORGE by Irnsrgn I got one of those ideas in my head that just wouldn't go away. Mainly making a small portable side blown forge to use with my bellows for demos. I have never been around one so I have no idea for sure what I am doing. But, after reading Bruce Wilcock's posts about the subject, I started thinking of how i could make it work. After much daydreaming and a few rough sketches on some scrap paper, here is what I came up with. The water cooled tuyere (tweer) was always a major obstacle in the past for me, and after Bruce said he uses a thick walled stainless pipe, I remembered having some 1 inch schedule 40 stainless pipe left over from a job. Bingo, I slipped into planning mode rather quickly. Pictured is what I came up with for the tuyere. Its 3 inch exhaust pipe that has been orange peeled down to a 1 inch opening and the stainless pipe welded on to the opening. I am only going to use this occasionally so I hope the stainless pipe will not melt off or deteriorate too quickly. The inlet is a piece of 16 gauge sheet formed around the 3 inch od tube to accept 3 inch vent pipe. All of the bellows applications I have seen, the operator uses all these little short pulls on the bellows handle to get the size fire he wants. The first forge I made to use with my bellows was almost all wood with a shop made firepot and I put a damper in the inlet so I could use the bellows to their utmost capabilities. (Use full strokes on the bellows and control the air with the butterfly valve). This proved to be very efficient and less tiring than what the other fellows were doing and gave a very consistent fire. Also I can shut off the butterfly, fill the top section of the bellows and there is enough leakage to maintain the fire while I am working at the anvil. This picture shows the butterfly valve in the closed position. There were two holes drilled in the butterfly and then plug welded to the shaft in the correct position. This picture shows the butterfly valve in the full open position. note (I used a big flashlight shining in the end of tuyere to get the best picture) This is a view of the small spring I used over the pivot rod and with double nuts to lock it into place to obtain the necessary friction to maintain any position I put the butterfly in. The operating handle with stops for full open and full closed positions. The Pan the duck's nest will be formed in. This was basically scrap and left overs from jobs, its 12 gauge material approximately 17 inches by 24 inches and with 8 inch sides. The shelf on the end is the drop left over from cutting (2) 24 inch long pieces. The pipe sticking out the end is 1 1/4 inch pipe for the tuyere pipe to slide into and has a 5/16 nut welded on to it and a short 5/16 bolt to secure the tuyere pipe in place. The corners have a full weld, the bottom is fastened to the sides with skip welds and the pipe end inside the pan is fastened to the bottom with a small scrap piece of flat iron. As I did not have enough material to make full height sides, instead of laying fire brick in the bottom, I used 4 short pieces of 1 1/2 inch flat tacked to the bottom on edge for the first row of fire bricks to set on and will just fill the bottom with dirt or cinders. Due to the small size and having the short drop available I attached a shelf to lay tools on with the pimple side of the deck plate up so the rough surface would prevent round things from rolling off. 4 pieces of 1/8 by 2 angle iron 1 inch long were cut and tacked to the corners to keep the box from sliding off the legs. The legs are 1 inch OD light wall tubing scavenged from my neighbors iron rack (with his permission of course) and are 24 inches tall and pivot in the middle like a gate leg table. They are light but strong. Instead of saddling the crosspieces to the legs, the ends were flattened and welded both sides with 1/4 inch bolts and double nuts for the pivots. The legs in the unfolded position. The completed forge pan setting on the folding legs. Total height about 32 inches. The tuyere in place and the first brick in place with a notch for the tube to go thru. Another view with a small piece of asbestos house siding laid under the spot where the fire will be as insurance against burn thru of the bottom. This view also shows how the fire brick rest on the bottom spacers. The first row of bricks in place ready for dirt to be tamped in. The void around the fire bricks filled with dry powdery clay soil. To seal the pipe a small amount was dampened with water and squeezed around the pipe. Also notice that the corners of two of the bricks are now notched to keep the soil from pushing the bricks into the void for the duck's nest. The top layer of bricks with the voids filled. Two of these bricks are also notched. A side view showing that the simple 8 inch side draft flue is working, its only(2) 24 inch sections high and inside the building. A front view of the flue and showing the nice swirl of flame going in and up the flue. The opening is 9 inches tall and about 7 inches wide with the wings bent back and the sharp edges turned back on the wings and hammered down. A view of the fire at an idle (No air is being forced in). The same picture with out flash showing the internal heat in the fire. The auxiliary support bracket shown closed against the side of the forge pan. It is made of 3/8 square, doubled back on itself in the middle and the very end forge welded to itself and then the end bent up almost 90 degrees then spread at the open end about 3 inches to give a triangular shape for strength. The pivot is 5/8 hot rolled that the bottom part has been turned down to 7/16 to fit in a short piece of 3/8 pipe that is welded to the pan side. The auxiliary support bracket swung out in the open position to hold up a long piece of stock. The auxiliary support bracket in the second piece of pipe to raise it about 3 inches above the top of the pan so that the piece being worked can angle down into the fire a little more. I will be taking this to a 2 day teaching hammer in, but I will use the bellows instead of the hand blower to give some of the beginners a chance to use a bellows and a different type of forge. There will be 6 to 10 teaching stations and there will be 1 or 2 beginners with each instructor. This way there will be more of a one on one atmosphere and the participants will use the tools of the teaching station to accomplish the different projects unless they bring there own hand tools. View full article

Leah, please accept our Condolences for the passing of your Father and we hope and pray you and your mother will always remember the good times with your father. Cookie and Jr.

River Gazer, Sir, I have put the question to myself wondering what material you have been reading. It must be some other text than what I have read and the information is contrary to what I have learned in my 56 years of blacksmithing. To me CAST IRON is just a notch above pig iron and has such a high carbon content that is unworkable other than machining. It is called CAST IRON for a reason, that is the only way it can be used as a material as it has so much carbon that it is unforgable. Cast Iron in larger castings is a good cheap way to construct larger pieces. But, in thin sections it is most fragile and even a slight bump can fracture it. It will not hold an edge although early on before man knew how to make decent steel it was used for plow shares with a chilled edge to make the grain structure somewhat suitable as a cutting edge. Hot Cast Iron immersed in water will yield many small pieces, and is rather explosive in nature. Please I am curious as to where you got your information as .35 % is considere the starting of High Carbon Steel and coil springs are at the upper limit of good usable steel at .95% carbon content. Just Curious

If you mean the chuck needs 1/2 threads in the back of the chuck, most hardwares and farm supply stores carry them. Jacobs are the best but cost more. Most post drills have a 1/2 in hole to accept the old 1/2 shank blacksmith drills and an ordinary 1/2 fine threaded bolt with the threads cut off to the proper length and the head end cut off will work well.

Hammers, top tools -( fullers, hot cuts, punches, set hammers, flatter), hot cut hardies, tongs all within easy reach of my anvil. smaller version for demoing, often used hardy tools go in top ring, least used in bottom ring.

Though this might be interesting to some, especially the prices. LOL

Spring Guard on my LG 50

My Main Anvil 125 lb Blackjack.

My Demo Vise, not to heavy to move around easily, but quite stable.

Now you know why you don't have any bugs, trade you mice for lizards. In Thailand, our tent was lousy with them little lizards, but no bugs.

Yes , that is a colonial shaped anvil for sure.

I agree with Mark about OSHA. Cages and add on so called safety things can make a machine absolutely DANGEROUS, besides LIMITING VISION to the point of not being able to see what you are doing or what is happening with the machine. I don't need someone to tell me a machine is dangerous and equip it with all kinds of expensive supposed safety stuff that makes it extremely dangerous and almost impossible to use. With some of the supposedly Safety Cages, FLYING SHRAPNEL from the light duty cage material will do far more damage than the machine if it fails for some reason. COMMON SENSE tells me all power machinery is dangerous, and to be careful when operating it. The Most Dangerous thing you can own is an Oxy-Acet set up in the hands of some one who has no instruction in how to use it.

Solid Steel speaks well for it, at least it's not cast iron, the hardness of the top is sometimes questionable with cast anvils versus the laid on blister steel of the old wrought iron anvils. The Torching would not affect the whole face just an area adjacent around the hardy hole. Also if you drilled it, its not that hard. It will work well for working Hot Iron, but will ding or dent if COLD IRON is worked on it. 1/8 inch is a lot to take off of the hardened top of an anvil, most of the old hard faces on wrought iron anvils was only about 3/8 thick to start with. Its possible to harden the face of your Anvil if you can find someone with a Johnson Gas Trench forge, You will NEED lots of Running Water to Quench it tho. I have rehardened the hard top of a couple of Wrought anvils that went thru fires. I have a large around 400 lb cast anvil and it works well for Hot Iron . It has no name or weight on it. Sounds like you have a nice weight Anvil to work on. Enjoy it.