ladysmith

Aaron, That looks like a nice simple break down. Pam

I wore a black and red tie DYED shirt today

Yeah, I'm lazy. I use a propane torch too. Pam

Time to kick up my FEET and relax. Pam

Someday, I'd like to be good enough to forge a DIRK Pam

No but there is a TOCK...maybe it's a clock. Lame! Pam

Looks like it's BACK on track

Wow! great bowls! Pam

LUCK is good planning carefully executed.

BEAT the hot metal into submission. :)

Ok, you still don't understand. The metal won't conform to the pewter. The pewter is just a copy of something else. I think I misunderstood your original post. I thought you wanted to cast metal. Pewter is a metal, whose melting point is low enough to easily cast. If you want to cast iron, you need a foundry. I'm not sure if the backyard foundries get high enough to melt iron. Do a search on "backyard foundries". They also include some stuff on mold making. I wish I could help you more, but I've reached my knowledge limit on casting. Pam

The flea market is just down the ROAD

Mandoro, I think you are confused. You have to shape the original metal THEN use the mold to make copies. The mold itself looks like a square or circular piece of hardened gasket goop that has a reverse of the original pressed into the top. Think of pressing a symbol into sand and the impression it leaves. Does that make more sense? On another note a Dremel or Fordom and some diamond bits can be used to cut some of these symbols into your products. If you cut deep enough and do a slight undercut at the edges, the pewter can then be poured into that cut out to create a nice contrast. You will have a bit of clean up and polishing to do, but it's pretty easy with pewter. Pam

...and had to fill out an insurance FORM

Pewter is soft enough to easily cast. My suggestion (if you want a hand-forged look) would be to actually forge out the symbol. Having stated you understand the trademark issues, I won't go into that.) For this purpose be sure to forge out something that isn't detailed in back. Once you forge out the symbol to your liking, you'll need to make a mold of it. While pewter melts low enough a business card can be taped and folded into a mold (Hint: think knife guards right on your handle and blade) , it isn't appropriate for what you want. A great mold material for pewter is the high temperature gasket goop found at auto body shops. Find an appropriate sized container to hold the goop. The next couple of steps have to be done fast because the gasket goop hardens quickly. It's best to prepare the symbol before squeezing out the goop. Rub a light coating of vasoline all over your symbol. While you're at it, rub some vasoline inside your container. Next squeeze the gasket goop into your container (keeping air bubbles out) to twice the depth of your symbol. Carefully wiggle your symbol into the top of gasket goop. Make sure you don't completely cover the symbol. Let cure to dry. When the gasket goop fully cures, take it out of the container. Flex the goop to retrieve the forged symbol. You now have a mold! You now need pewter. You can search online for a supplier, or look for inexpensive local sources. Search around at the local thrift store for those pewter mugs with the glass bottoms that all college people seem to collect. Make sure it says pewter on the bottom. The prices generally under $3. Ok you've found a couple of mugs...what about the glass? Pewter is soft enough you should be able to crunch the mug with your gloved hands until the glass breaks. (Don't forget the safety glasses too.) Once the glass breaks you can easily separate it from the pewter. Dispose of the glass properly. Next you will need a simple plumber's propane torch like the kind they have at most hardware stores. Place your crunched mug in a small old pan with a long handle (one you won't ever use for food again). Place it on something non-flammable. Turn on your torch and wave over the mug until it melts. You'll be surprised how little time is actually needed. While pewter melts at a rather low temperature, it is still hot enough for burns...safety is always your first consideration. Carefully pour the liquid pewter just to the top of your gasket mold. It should harden just as quickly as it melted. When cool, flex your mold enough to pop out your first cast Aggie symbol. Depending on the complexity of your design, and how carefully you pop out the symbols, you should be able to reuse your mold many times. On a side note, I melt all of the mugs into small batches for easier storage. Good luck and let me know how it works for you. Pam

FIRE....too good to pass up! ;)

I like it and I get it. Pam

Grizz, I really like your work. I've played a bit with repousse. What are you using as a pitch? Pam

Buzz, I left plenty unsaid....but some things are better learned by doing. Knife making is a tough road, but possible road. It takes time, effort, and a lot of sacrifice to build up a reputation of a product worth the price, and a list of clients to make it a full-time venture. That long, hard road begins with a first step.... Pam

Flames might be interesting. Pam :D

Some of you all know I use to own a retail knife store and still have a bad habit of hanging out with custom knife and sword makers and collectors at various shows across the country. I've had the immense pleasure to handle some of Salamander Armoury's (Jim's) knives and swords, as well as some from a few of the other top sword makers in the US. You can immediately tell Dr. Hrisoulas produces an excellent quality product (accurate balance and weight) for the price...in fact, I've never figured out how he can price them that low. Jim's combination of creating excellent value (fair price for the quality), and marketing to an under utilized niche market seems to be the secret to creating a product-line that will allow you to make knives a full-time business. Create a product line based on materials within your skill level. Work on creating a knife that even if it has popular (traditional or modern) design elements, still is different enough to be uniquely yours. Even though Jim is creating swords and knives based on historical examples, I can pick his out of a group of other custom historically based swords. His swords are completely different than say one of Tinker's, or Gus Trim's, or Bruce Evans. All have figured out a way to make their swords unique, even if they are using the same historical example. Same with hunters, or tactical, or even kitchen knives. A good (and smart) maker will realize that a collector (or user) is looking for something different within their collection parameters. Go to a knife show (or check the internet). You'll find completely different interpretations of a hunter (even using the exact same material). Of course you have to be aware of the cost of your supplies and labor. Figuring ways to keep those fixed and variable costs down is the key to keeping your prices fair (to both you and your customer). Consider education as an investment...whether it be experimenting with new and expensive materials, or classes. It is one kind of expense that will pay for itself over and over by helping you create value in your product. Just be smart and experiment in small steps. Jumping too far ahead of your skill level is a formula for an expensive disaster and frustration. Same with tools. Not only do you have to consider the price of the grinder, welder, etc., but there is a learning curve to using any new machine. Think hard about how much of a learning curve will be needed considering your skill level and the amount of time necessary to make that machine start paying for itself. If your skill level hasn't progressed to the point of getting everything possible out of a band saw, it isn't time to progress to a CNC machine. You need to figure out WHO you want to market to. Marketing to your neighbors and friends is a great way to sell knives and work on your skill, however few of us have THAT many friends to allow for full-time knifemaking. The skills gained in marketing to your friends are the same skills that you'd use in selling at a knife show or ren-faire....just think of all of the potential customers as friends you just haven't yet met. Without a doubt the most successful knifemakers are also the friendliest! Also learn to niche market, within a niche market. Custom knives are a small enough niche market (as far as a customer base) as it is. There are more and more makers entering this market every year. You are going to have to get your name out there if you want to be able to grab a large enough share of that market to go full time. As I discussed above, value is imperative. However, value isn't enough if you are trying to break into a market with literally hundreds of other makers vying for the same customer. You need to do more than design a knife that is uniquely you....You also need to figure out who within that market isn't being served, and address their needs/wants. Jim does an excellent job of marketing to a subgroup of collectors...those that collect historically accurate usable swords. (hint: I know there are more and more women entering the market as collectors whose unique needs and tastes are being ignored.) Websites and forums are also a great way to get started. The exchange of information is amazing! Beyond the educational aspect, a by-product of that exchange, people become interested in you and your product. Remember, all things being equal, people buy from those they like. Ads and blurbs in the major magazines also can be helpful. (Again, you have to evaluate the cost compared to your skill level and market before considering magazine ads.) Full-time knifemaking is a long hard, but possible, road. Having a supportive spouse whose job will handle the bills and things like insurance makes that road far easier. The longer you work at all aspects of it (quality, value, and marketing), the easier it becomes. It is possible!! Ok enough (and probably too much). If you got this far, you have at least a start on the tenacity it takes to make it in full-time knifemaking. Pam

Hooks are always good. You could do fancy ones with leaves or those roses at the top. Lets see...S-hooks of various lengths, steak turners, shes kabob skewers, hotdog skewers, hair picks, etc. Good luck! Pam

I found this while I was day-dreaming on the internet. Ultimate Blacksmith Shop It is an amazing blacksmith shop! I wish I was up to using it to it's full potential! It would make a great school. It is a 11,000 sq. ft. blacksmith (and machinist) shop that is being rehabbed to it's original glory! Amenities include multiple gas and coal forges, at least 3 large heat treating ovens, and multiple steam hammers -- 2000 lb, 3000 lb, 4000 lb, and a massive 10,000 pounder (and the tooling)!! Johnstown PA also has an artist relocation program so the incentives are more than tempting! (Glenn, where is that drooling smiley?) We should all figure out a way to take advantage of this opportunity. Pam

Hi MJ! Glad to see you finally made it! Pam

Hi Larry! Glad to see you're back up and around. I met Larry at the first Moran Hammer-in near Frederick, MD. (Larry, I'm not sure if you remember me as there were lots of people there, but I was about the only girl trying my hand at knifemaking.) I watched Larry work with kids that weekend, and he is amazing! This big bear of a man seems to immediately connect with children, and can explain the fundamentals while the kids are working. Some (most) of those kids produced a much better first try than I did. Larry is one of the good guys! Pam