Dave Leppo

ANYONE HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS TOOL? JET HAND SHEAR

You Could Also Round One Of The Flanges Of The Rail To Use As A Bottom Fuller

see link: defense of clutter! A Perfect Mess

I have a ~160lb PW. Would like a bigger anvil. I think I can wait on Jymm's. I like the style, would like to support this and other sites, and the maker!

Actually, I found them in a junk pile in my dad’s garage, There are two, so when one burns out, I have a replacement. The ones I have aren’t quite the same as shown, and it took me a little while to find the picture I posted. They are actually very hemispherical in the bowl, but have a square flange on top to accept a 12” square grate. The hole in the bottom is ~3”dia, with a collar ~2”long protruding from the bottom of the bowl. Cast iron, about

I think forge welding is one area where experience is the best teacher (do not ignore advice, though.) I was able to quickly learn almost every other smithing technique by reading descriptions, and trying it a few times; NOT FORGE WELDING! I had to try it many times, and I am getting better at it each time. I could NOT do it when I started, and I can now usually do it when I try. This may be why everyone's techniques' have subtle variations; everyone basically has to try it for themselves, and develop personal guidelines as they go. (I have also learned that I have better luck in certain circumstances) DO NOT GIVE UP; keep trying. I find forge welding tremendously satisfying when successful; in part because of the work I had to put in to learn.

I use a cast iron floor drain bowl. It's round, ~4" deep, ~12"dia. Looks somthing like this, without the grate: works well! No clinker breaker; I use a small piece of perf. steel to keep the coal from falling out the tuyer, and replace as needed.

ThAT "ANON" IS ONE SMART GUY

GOD gave you two ears and one mouth - you should listen twice as much as talk. -Wilson (I think)

fat pete Where does the Amish steel come from?

if you make tongs that are somewhat useable, you can use them to make better tongs, and use the second set to make even better tongs, etc!

I did my first basket twist saturday night, w/ (4) 3/8"dia rods. one was bent in thirds, giving me a bend and an end on each end. I then added another rod. (does this make any sense at all?) The rods were rusty, so I cleaned the ends with a muratic acid soak first. The first welding heat, I just lightly tapped the opposing rods together to stick them. Second heat, used a 1/2"dia bottom swage. Third & fourth heat, started drawing to a taper (square section). Fluxing as I went. As I am a rookie, I tend to weld in increments like this. After welding each end as described, I twisted the bars, and then untwisted to get the basket. I made this weldment into an "s" hook by turning the tapered ends. I had just gotten back from Kinzers and, inspired, I wanted to forge-weld something!

I attended a demo Saturday where the Gent used 3/4" EMT forged into a candle socket. He said he soaked it in muratic acid first, before forging, to remove the plating. Any comments?

I think i'ts gone. AND I don't have a forging business, just a hobby, so it wouldn't pay for itself other than time savings, (which IS still important). Still a missed opportunity! Having never looked into flypress prices, I was ignorant at the time. I'me sure it will never come again. someone got a good deal, though; hopefully they can make good use of it. -EDIT- Thomas - O, I see. You meant re-sell it @ quad states!

I like the fuller - texture effect for leaves; it's what I use. Easy to do if your careful, and i think it looks better than veins. If your real careful, you can get a center vein effect. Shown is a hinge made from "angle iron"

True price for flypress - thread? I saw a flypress (used) on sale on Saturday - $150.00. I thought seriously about buying it, but decided against it 'cause I don't have a welder set up now to help make tooling for it. Sorry, I don't know the size - looked comparable to this one, but it was an “H” frame.

us quarters 1964 or older are silver. Check your couch!

checkout the forum @ "farwestforge.com" to see the opinions of "Iron Kiss" users, and many posts from Professor Larson himself. Personaly, I'm not a PH guy yet, so I don't know from experience, but I see alot of praise for these hammers. If I could get a new PH, it's what I'd buy.

Beaver Can you make a diagrahm of this thing, with the critical dimensions? This thing is wild, and I'd love to try to build one!

My touchmark is just my last name; five letters. I made my own stamping punch by first taking standard letter punches (positive individual letters) and punching my name neatly in a piece of 11ga crs, (creating a negative composite word). I then used this to create the punch; by heating the punch end to yellow, stamping it into the imprint in the crs, (positive composite), grinding away excess metal around the word and squaring up the punch, and heat treating accordingly, keeping it on the hard side. I did this about a year or more ago, so the details are a little foggy in my brain, but I think that I probably had to do multiple hits to raise the letters in the end of the punch til I was satisfied. As the area of the punch grows, so will the difficulty in forging the positive from the negative. Also, it will be harder to find an area flat enough to take an impression in the work piece.

flying "V", and other guitars were made out of Koa. I didn't know Gibson was Hawian 8)

Looks Loke This: But With An "iron Kiss" Utility Hammer, And Enough Power run my compressor in This Building if i moved it. And, Oh Yea, Time!! Infact If I Just Have More Time To Forge, I Could Wait On The "iron Kiss"

i'VE GOT A CLAW HAMMER I INHERITED FROM MY GRANDPA. I'TS GOT A RUBBER COLLAR ON THE END, I THINK MADE FROM A BIKE INNERTUBE; ABOUT 1"LG. KEEPS THE HAMMER FROM SLIPPING OUT OF YOUR HAND. WORKS GOOD FOR CARPENTRY, BUT I HAVN'T USED IT FOR SMITHING.

jimbob You can have it both ways, on both the anvil height, and the hammer dressing: Anvil: you can have a wooden platform, around six inches high, available to stand on; you stand on the floor for normal forging, and put the platform in place to stand on to “lower” the anvil. Be careful not to trip, or accidentally step off. Hammer dressing: get more hammers. You can dress them differently for different operations. Just some suggestions.

Stand It On End, And Bury 12" In The Ground - It's An Anvil!