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I Forge Iron


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About PeterM

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Cape Breton, Nova Scotia
  • Interests
    canoeing, paddle carving, woodworking, knifemaking, surviving the wrath of a three yr/old girl.
  1. I have no idea what this is, but I love it. It reminds me of a huge dashi with a bit of tanto and some chopper thrown in the mix. But, then the handle throws everything out of whack! So.... call it what you want, I'm going with "Woodsman's Dashi". I shaped the walnut "slabs" so they get wider towards the butt. The tang is drilled and the forged copper liners are "skeletonized" to reduce weight. Woodsman's Dashi Blade: 4 7/8" of Aldo's 1084. Flat ground bevels with 2000 grit hand-rubbed finish, forge-finish flats. Handle: 4 1/8" highly figured American Walnut w/ Tung oil and buffed Conservat
  2. Thanks Dick. The Fortress is an extraordinary place. Its the largest historic reconstruction project in N. America with only about 1/4 of the original fort and town completed. Although work continues to this day. Dick - Next year come up for the "Thunder in the Highlands" weekend. On the concluding Sunday the riders all ride en mas to "Storm the Fortress". This year, 9354 motorcycles rode the 1/2 hr from Sydney to the fortress to spend the evening. Its an amazing sight to see all those bikes ride through our little town(I live in Louisbourg) of just 7000 residents.
  3. I spent this past weekend at Fortress Louisbourg attending the "Hammered at the Fortress" hammer-in. We had a good showing with about 30 smiths from around the region, and hundreds of public visitors to the Fortress who stopped by for a look-see. I only had time for a few shots just after setting up for the Saturday start. It was a great event with great weather. Lots of visitors with lots of questions and a good time was had by all. This is the courtyard housing the hammer-in. In the surrounding buildings there are three blacksmith shops(all working), a bakery(also working) and the carpen
  4. Well, last night I did the dirty deed. My friend's woodworking shop provided the venue for the destruction test. Along for the entertainment was Glen(a retired IBM exec), Blain(a guitar and violin maker) and Blain's son( just a neat kid). Glen shot the video while Blain-and-son cowered in the corner ducking the occasional wood chip. The rope is brand new 1 1/4" manilla. The 2x4 is, well.... a 2x4, that has been stored under cover outdoors for many moons. Here is the uncut video. No, my voice does NOT sound like that, but that shouldn't detract from my Emmy-worthy performance. Shades of D
  5. Some of you may have detected why I'm using THIS blade and THIS knife for a destruction test....... I forged and shaped this blade as an intended gift for my neighbor who has become a great friend. He's a hunting guide. It was to be a start-of-hunting-season present. I drew up a design I thought he'd be happy with and actually use. The blade forged out just fine and the shaping and grinding went well. I was starting to like the blade. I began to clean it up a bit an play with the layout. That's when I drilled the holes for the peened copper plate. One hole was off.... wayyyy off, making th
  6. Ok, without further a due, I offer up for your scrutiny...... .... a knife I have named: INTRINSIC MOTIVATION w/ custom MMS Blade: Aldo's 1084FG, 8 1/2" of sharp edge, 1 7/8" at its widest, 3/16" at the ricasso with forged distal taper and bevels and semi-brute de forge finish. Hand rubbed to 1000 grit finish with a peened copper maker's mark tag. Sharp as hell! Handle: 5 1/4" American Wild Black Cherry, stainless steel pins and buffed Watco Danish Oil finish. Forged and etched 1/4" mild steel S-guard w/ gun blued faces and high-polished edges MMS: (Motivational Management System) This
  7. Cal-K - ... and what about the integrity of the spacer? Or that of the pinned tag? Is this handle style strong enough and ergonomic enough for the task? I'm testing a knife, the whole knife, made the way I make knives.
  8. Cal-K - I suppose the short answer to all your questions is: I'm not making a test knife - I'm making a knife that will be tested. I can give you the long version if needed. BTW - I am NOT taking the actual ABS JS test. This is being done purely out of curiosity and on my own terms.
  9. The final steps...... I'll begin by backtracking and show my sharpening process. This is directly off the grinder with the edge established using a warn 320 grit belt. The 1" wide contact surface of my belt grinder is poor for maintaining a perfectly straight edge. So, I'll refine the edge on a fine wet stone( I can't remember what grit). Working the edge: Then its on to an 8000 grit wet stone to work up a consistent wire edge: Finally I hone the edge on a strop filled with green compound. I'll do this for 100 or so strokes - slice into the wood table to remove the wire, then a
  10. I didn't have a lot of time today as I had errands in town and a lawn in need of mowing. I also didn't take a lot of photos today. But, the knife is pretty much done. The handle has been buffed and the blade sharpened and this evening I'll peen on the copper tag which is all prepped and ready to go. This is my buffer. I have several different wheels, but for this I'll a sewn and a loose cotton wheel. I won't need the Tripoli for this. I'll just give a light buffing with White Diamond and then carnauba wax: I beveled the edges of the copper tag: Then polished to 1500 grit: Time fo
  11. Castglegardener - I use the wood pins for several reasons. The wood pins won't generate heat the way metal pins will. With the amount of grinding I did, the metal pins would have gotten way to hot and ruined the epoxy bond. Also, I like to have something in the pin holes to help prevent chipping as I work on the handle.
  12. The handle has been sanded and oiled. I now have to leave it for the afternoon to dry. This evening I'll do some detail work on the guard, get the handle buffed and polished, and put a sharp edge on the blade. To start, the pins are sawn off and filed flush: Good enough for now: Its time to fine tune around the guard and spacer: Before: Getting there: I need to round off those flat surfaces on the handle: Working with a file, the front is done and I'm starting the butt end: An old 120 grit belt will help fair in the handle contours: On to 220 grit: Fine tune the cu
  13. Phil - My drawer of shame is deep and full. The pins are in. I have some copper wire that I thought was the right diameter, but turned out to be just over size. I had my hopes up for a moment. I'm using 3'16th" stainless steel brick ties. To prepare, I'm sanding on fresh 400 grit paper, a clean piece scrap cherry wood from the handle block. I'll mix this wood dust with the epoxy to use in the pin holes. As good as I am at drilling a nice clean hole.... I'm not very good at it and my drill press sucks, so it doesn't always happen. So, this blends any slop quite well, especially if ver
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