macbruce

My Father told me more than once; ''A little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing'' and as a boy this maxim puzzled me, not anymore. The simple process of melting lead in a pot can have dire consequences if you haven't learned how to do it correctly as with so many of the tools, chemicals, solvents,etc we use all the time...........Take care.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CE0QFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.speedymetals.com%2Finformation%2FMaterial49.html&ei=AGqOU-_DO9GpyASHgoLQBw&usg=AFQjCNEMxg_CzXr1VEx_jkCmtFWjR1MoPQ&bvm=bv.68235269,d.aWw&cad=rja MACHINEABILITY AND WELDABILITY Machinability is rated at 36% of B1112. Average cutting speed 60 ft/min. Easily welded by all commercial processes except forge or hammer welding. Annealing is recommended after forging to maintain maximum corrosion resistance. 316/316L can be forged between 2100°-2300° F. Do not forge below 1700° F.

Good cheap ones are hard to find, otherwise open your wallet and Bada Bing..........http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/AC-Motors/AC-Motors-Base-Mount/5-HP-208-230-VAC-1740-RPM-MOTOR-LEESON-M-5-184T-10-1435.axd

I worked in a big fab shop back in 1980 and learned a thing or two about this.......When I watched the old timers they never put the water spray directly on the heated area, rather they would spray around the hot spot and gradually work the cool towards the hot spot and that's how I'll do it when my new toy arrives......Harris Rosebud 2290hp-4 Cutting Welding Torch 2393-3F / 43-2 Heating sku 193 I was able to get this on eb for less than the Victor tip alone would cost ($180+tax).....Always wanted a Harris rig anyhow, plus the tips are WAY cheaper than Victor.......... B) The main reason for this query is that I've never tackled big thick plate before, it's a little daunting but doable I think..... :unsure:

Great tool! I love mine............. B)

Only a slight inprovement when I checked it this morning...............What I really need is my monster torch which is still in hiding :( Maybe I can borrow one as a new one will set me back around $300. Believe I will quench it next time with my trusty siphon sprayer when I get my hands on a bigger rosebud...... I've watched guys use these along with local heats to straighten/curve beams that weighed 400 lbs per ft without flooding the shop with water....

I ran the biggest oxy-propane rosebud I could find across the hump(still can't find my monster) for about a half hour today and It did move the metal, making the hump worse by about a qtr inch which is what you want when it's hot..........If all goes well it should shrink back more than it expanded......We'll see in the morning..........

Awesome tool......The possibilities versus the practicalities seem like they could be kinda scary.........It's in good hands at least...looking foward to hearing more about your BEAST................ B)

A fine flap wheel won't hurt it one bit IF you keep it flat and work the surface evenly imo. A DA sander with fine paper would be even gentler.....Just go for the high spots and quit, that won't damage a thing.

No my old 220 lb'er was brought up to 10 to 1 some ago and it works just fine. This is a new 200lb hammer with a KZ control for a client. Of all the hammers I've made welding the mast and the anvil to the base plate never affected the plate so alignining the two will be a bit trickier.

Thanks all.........I've flame straightened many a beam and bar in my day but never tried a big thick plate.........If I can ever find my huge 3' long rosebud (I figure it's hiding in plain sight just laughing at me) that fits my Victor body I think I'll have a crack at by applying heat across the plate in about a 4'' swath for say 15 minutes, let it cool and see if there is any improvement. With that torch, 15 minutes will equate to about half a large bottle of Ox but very little in propane by comparason. If there's no improvement then I'll use it as is, being mindfull NOT to square off the plate and use the digital level to make the post and anvil paralell.......... When I bought this plate I didn't check it for flat thinking/ assuming 2'' just HAS to be flat....right?..............Still learning,lol, but at .40 Per pound I probly would have bought it anyway................ B)

I have a piece of 2x30x50'' steel plate I'm going to use for a PH base and it has a 1/8'' bow in it the long way.........I do have a a large oxy propane (as big as a flamin' golf club) rosebud and am wondering if it's any use to try and get the bow out or just put the cup towards the floor and forget about it.............? thanks, mb

I say Hay Budden......Nice one............ B)

I would have to agree (to thumbs up)in this case as I too put my thumb up when I'm doing finishing blows......In this case it it just might prevent a hammer to the puss from a missed blow......... B)

If it's your hobby, you get lots of lattitude. But, just as you wouldn't like hearing a lawnmower at 11pm others wouldn't want you tinkering on metal at the same hour.

Columbians are neither. Sweedish anvils are one piece cast steel I believe and Vulcans are cast iron with a thin tool steel face which fused with the molten cast iron during the pour I guess. If the tool steel were thicker on a Vulcan it might be classed as good as a Fischer but it ain't by a long shot. Cloumbians are cast malible steel but they have a thick tool steel face which is a good combo imo but beware, they will chip badly if miss-struck......

What JMC said.......Check it out,carefully. Some moron used it as a welding table but didn't do much harm, that will sand away with little effort.

It's ok for drifts and such but for punching and cutting not so much.

Here is a (grungy)chart I have,The ''we'' on the heading refers to 'us'............ hope this helps.

Go buy a lotto ticket, ya done good....... B)

I can see where belting might be ok for shims, it would give enough to allow for some adjust-ability without coming loose and might be helpful if there was any deflection in the ram guide For my money I prefer good ol' solid stock though. Once you get it right and tighten/torque the bolts it won't need any attention for a good long while........ B)

Balsa wood??? :huh: I can't think of anything aside from foam rubber that would be less suitable for shim stock......It's NOT supposed to compress. Heck, old beer cans or 1 gal paint thinner cans will work better than balsa, among countless other things.....................................................

''The hammer seemed to run just fine on 1 belt'' Yes, they do. No need whatsoever for multiple belts imo unless you get into a bigger hammer.........

it's not bad....like Emmet, strong,sweet and not too smart.......

I had the same problem and corrected it by buying good quality blades. I was using ''Forney'' blades when I noticed my cuts were 1/8''+ out in 2'' and that makes for poor fit up and extra welding......No bueno.